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Old 01-13-2017, 06:45 AM   #26
kingkong
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Just contacted Brandtab and they don't want to ship outside of sweden. Too bad because he seems to do some nice work. Thanks anyway.
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:07 PM   #27
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you started tearing into it yet? or still getting research before you commit?
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Old 01-14-2017, 04:36 AM   #28
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Still figuring all out. I wanna be sure i got the right engine to begin with. The more i read the more it seems that way.
Against all odds, i might have found a getrag 265. I'm going to pick it up next week. From there, i'll see if a swap the tranny before tearing the engine down, or do it all at once.

After reading "the story of a greek" build thread, i'm not sure what CR i should be shooting for, as he went with 9.1:1 and it looks like its holding good at 30psi, without being a slug off boost.

But i look forward to build that engine, its so simple iof a design it hurts my brain lol.
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Old 01-14-2017, 05:01 AM   #29
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about that cr stuff, i really wonder if i should bore the block to b230 specs and use turbo pistons.
The site i mentionned few posts earlier appaers to be a pain to buy from so i'd be better off buying oem b230 oem pistons and b230 h beams as these are available from many shops (yoshifab is what i am leaning towards to)

Since the difference betwwen b200 and b230 is the bore size, i don't see why i couldnt make me a 2.3.
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Old 01-14-2017, 01:31 PM   #30
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Any thoughts guys ?
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Old 01-14-2017, 02:56 PM   #31
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i read somewhere that the walls of te cilinder are not fat enough for boring it out to 96mm. and with 30psi that's defenitly going to fail.

but why don't you search a b230 those are plenty around and not expensive.
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Old 01-15-2017, 04:57 PM   #32
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If you buy the 265 cheap just sell it for € 1000,- or more and use the profit to weld the afore mentioned diesel box. The youngest 265's are 30 years old and the design is 50 years old.
And by the way they come in overdrive and close ratio aka dog leg. The latter were fitted on euro e30 m3's and everything e30 m3 is worth gold nowadays.
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Old 01-17-2017, 12:29 PM   #33
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Well well look who's here...



In the meantime, i found a very rare B230FT+M90 combo in a junkyard that i'm going to pick up this week. Talk about luck !

So this is the final plan : going B230, keeping the M90 with the syncro mod until it goes kaboom. Then throwing the getrag in. Or sell it to buy another 940 a found on the french craiglist, that has a B200 with a 16v head... Choices choices lol.

**** this was going to be "relatively" cheap. It isn't anymore. I watched bamse's videos, now i'm crazy. This build is uber sick.

Anyway, back to my car, the engine is going out, beginning tonight.

I am now on the hunt for the right flywheel and clutch setup for th M90 and to be honest, there are so many infos i'm lost. If someone can enlighten me, that would be gratly appreciated.
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Old 01-17-2017, 12:35 PM   #34
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Haha great scores! Good to hear.

I can only say what worked good for my brothers car, the TTV racing flat flywheel for M90+240mm clutch. He used the 850R clutch setup but that may very well be too less for your build. At any rate, the flywheel is nice and light and super nicely made, maybe that helps you narrow down the options. So maybe the 850R pressure plate with KL racing sintered 6-puck disc? If it can be combined that is.. Many options indeed!

When you take the engine+M90, best take the drive shaft too. I used such a front end to shorten for use of M90 in my 240.

The B200 16V version (B204) is quite rare. You can also add 16V head on the B230, the B204 uses vastly different mounts etc so no plug and play drop in.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:40 AM   #35
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Thanks for the tip about the prop shaft mate.
Good for me that 16v head isn't compatible with the b230, keeps me from spending unnecessary money lol.

I began to unplug the B200 last night. Even with -5°C outside, after a full day at work, it is so easy to work on the 240 it is still a pleasure. Lots of room in the engine bay.
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Old 01-22-2017, 05:08 PM   #36
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Evening fella's.

Friday i went to pick a B230FK+ M90. Me happy !!






And tonight, i finished pulling the B200e out.




Goddamn its so easy to work on this car and i feckin love it.

So now tasty stuff begins : ripping the b230 appart, ordering the nice bits and putting it back in the car.
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Old 01-24-2017, 06:06 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingkong View Post
Any thoughts guys ?
They are conceptionally identical, but castings are obviously different. B200/204 blocks can't be bored to 96mm akd hold anything.

On the other hand, B200 is somewhat stronger than B230. And 90mm pistons, along with wider aftermarket, are better regarding detonation issues...
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Old 01-30-2017, 11:06 AM   #38
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Thank you nordsmachine.

So i finished stripping the B230 to bare block. Now i'm going to order the forged pistons+rods so i can send everything to my machinist.
In the mean time, i will tap the stock turbo oil return to accept the biggest return possible for he Holset.

Few pics of things everybody know :








By the way, do you know if my M90 of 1998 needs the 3rd gear syncro mod ? I red that latest versions are stronger. Thoughts ?
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Old 01-31-2017, 03:54 AM   #39
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in that way, every single M90 needs the synchro Mod , but yes.. the internet and Turbo Containern says so, that the later M90s are something like "stronger"
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Old 01-31-2017, 04:55 AM   #40
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When the pistons are good, why not just hbeam rods 152mm?

http://forum.savarturbo.se/viewtopic...8212a05ed781a8

The stockers seem to work fine too:

http://forum.savarturbo.se/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=93374

923 hp on new stock pistons!
His other recipes for drift and drag redblocks can be a nice guideline too
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Old 02-05-2017, 09:01 PM   #41
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Your '98 m90 has an updated design of the stop that keeps third gear in place and three-piece syncros.

The "synchro mod" has nothing with the syncros to do actually. And it doesn't really add any strength, it just makes it harder to break the part holding third gear in place on the input shaft

btw; I'm also running a holset @ 30 psi, it's quite fun!
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Old 02-06-2017, 06:57 AM   #42
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can't belive im the first to say it...














It'll never spool
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Old 02-06-2017, 08:14 AM   #43
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I red on here that the stock pistons would hold the boost but the ring lands would not stay for long.
Since i hate de re do thing, i might as well go straight to forged pistons.

But for the love of me, i CANNOT FIND somebody who will sell me pistons it is driving me ****ing crazy. John doesn't answer anymore, ClassicSwede answer to my first email, than nothing. And ACM has nothing on the shelf for now.
The engine is stripped and ready for machining, the money is ready, but nobody wants to take it. Crazy.

Anyway, i made the transmition mount for the M90. Bit rough on the edges but i will correct that later.
Gotta make the 50mm spacer for te guibo, and open the tranny for the 3rd gear mod.



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Old 02-06-2017, 08:17 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eabras View Post
btw; I'm also running a holset @ 30 psi, it's quite fun!
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can't belive im the first to say it...














It'll never spool
Hey eabras ! Can you tell me more about your setup ? What rpm does it get full boost ?

Billy, why do you say that ? HAve you got data ? Thanks
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Old 02-06-2017, 10:39 AM   #45
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Re-gap the rings so that they don't expand and pinch, and the pistons will be fine if you have the combustion event under control (no detonation/pinging).

I've only got a small hy35w (single scroll 9cm2 housing) so it spools alright. Not mitsu fast, but I see positive pressure at around 2000rpm under normal use, and 30psi by around 4000-4200rpm. This is with a 7.5:1 compression b21, v-cam, stock head/valves, a 90+manifold and full 3" exhaust. Running 98ron gasoline. In the datalogs I've seen 4-5 psi @ 1800rpm and 30psi @ ~3700rpm with lots of resistance (going uphill and/or "brake boosting"). I may have gone a little too far when drilling out the internal wg hole, so don't know if the flapper is sealing as good as it should.

The engine feels just as strong as a 13c car at low rpms, minus the instant boost feature of the mitsu ofcourse. But from 4000-7200rpm it really goes
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Old 02-06-2017, 10:52 AM   #46
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Thanks man.
What ring gap is considered safe for running 2 bar/ 400-500 hp ?

I am leaning towards an HX35 with twinscroll 12cm2 housing. I think that it's a great combination between fast spool and high hp when running E85 and twinscroll manifold, which i plan to.
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Old 02-06-2017, 12:33 PM   #47
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Ça va être tonnerre! J'ai hâte de voir la progression ainsi que le résultat final!

ps: tu es dans quelle région?


si jamais tu veux de laisser aller en français: www.clubvolvoquebec.com ainsi que notre groupe sur fb: https://www.facebook.com/groups/clubvolvoquebec/

Bon courage!
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Old 02-06-2017, 06:06 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingkong View Post
Thanks man.
What ring gap is considered safe for running 2 bar/ 400-500 hp ?

I am leaning towards an HX35 with twinscroll 12cm2 housing. I think that it's a great combination between fast spool and high hp when running E85 and twinscroll manifold, which i plan to.
Sorry miss read the post saw ring and thought grearbox

Some guys say they are good all the way to 600hp behind a t6, I cant remember @ what boost
You should be good att 500hp if you dont miss and gear changes (keep clutch down ) and behave ..is the motto for m90´s

I´m running a m90h behind my t5...we will see how long that lasts ...I still have to start the engine so ...

Last edited by p18002.5t; 02-07-2017 at 05:39 AM..
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Old 02-06-2017, 08:28 PM   #49
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Did you try Yoshifab.com for pistons?
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Old 02-06-2017, 08:54 PM   #50
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Quote:
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Thanks man.
What ring gap is considered safe for running 2 bar/ 400-500 hp ?
From memory, it's like .005-.007in of ring gap for each inch of bore for crazy turbo. Street would be .004-.005in per inch of bore. Wiseco, and CP list charts for ring end gap based on how the engine will be used. Definitely double check.
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