home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-14-2018, 09:00 AM   #1
kalns_rsi
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Latvia, Riga
Default kalns_rsi 240 (245) D24

Hello everyone !

This is my first thread in turbobricks and also my first Volvo. Right now I don't have any thoughts about Turbo and of course it's D24 , so problbay it would be a boring thread, but any way since, there is lot of people who have huge experience about Volvo 240 and D24 also, I hope to fine some answers.

More than 10 years ago, my first ride with 240 Ė I really like this car, but at that time I was for 230 / 230 Turbo and it was hard to find something at acceptable condition. In Latvia (Europe) 240 was popular at ~1995-2000 years (740 or 940, Volkswagen, BMW, Mercedess was way more popular) and even in 2008 there was problems to find 240 in good condition. The biggest problem is rust. During the winter time salt are putted on the roads and thatís terrible Ė cars rust super-fast. Thatís the reason why I bought classic BWM at that time. Now in 2018, there is only few of them are left, so last chance to buy 240. Since I have two small kids and we like to go road trips I decide to look for 245 with diesel. Diesel because itís cheaper and lower fuel consumption. Also from my point of view D24 is so primitive, that properly maintained engine can run lot of miles without any problems. For me there was no choose Ė only one 245 (1988) was sold and with D24. Millage 442 0000 km (~274 000), condition is terrible, but at least engine somehow works, it is in one piece and itís possible to drive.

First, I want to get that car back to road, so in Latvia to get permission to drive on the roads, ever year car has to pass technical inspection Ė everything works properly on the car (lights, breaks, engine etc.), no oil leaks, rust holes, tires are suitable for driving (at winter winter tires with at least 4mm protector, and in summer tires with at least 2mm protector) and so on. From outside car can look like a crap but it has to be safe to drive and in more or less good technical condition.

So I need to take care about:
- New rear tail light, drivers side
- Drives safety belt,
- New power steering high pressure hose
- No oil leaks from engine
- No rust holes
- New tires
- New suspensions
- Some problems with running gear Ė probably need to change steering tie rod endís , bearings maybe something else, it has to be check by qualified mechanic.
- And lot of small things.

When I will get car back on the road I would like restore it, new painting, all seats in same color/style, new chrome lines and so on. So it looks like original. Also would like to put electric fan and maybe some other small upgrades. And maybe later on swap audi 2.5 diesel engine or D5.








The biggest problem is rear - super big rust hole (ther was bumper and taillights, I just take them off)



The first thing was oil change (Belts , brake pads and rotors, engine oil was already changed by previous owner). I change also engine oil because there was some kind of dino oil, I put fully synthetic, because average temperature during the summer is +20-25C (68-77F) and in winter -15-10C (5-14F). Also change differential and M47 gear box oil. Differential oil looks liked mud and thatís the reason why I check also gearbox oil. It was little bit better than differential oil, but still terrible. There was problems with refilling, so I used big syringe.

Next step is glow plugs and fuel filter change, but I am worried, that there will be air in system if I just take off old filter and put new one. About the glow plugs, I am not sure if there is problem with glow plugs, glow plug relay or both. But for one I am sure, at cold time I need 15-20 sec. cranking engine before itís start. And even then, only 4 or 5 cylinders are working first minute Ė lot o smoke, terrible sound and big vibrations. After one or two minutes engine works properly and after 10 minutes when it warms up, even no smoke. Also if the engine is worked before that day Ė itís starts easy and no terrible sound, big smokes or something like that. So I think glow plugs is the problem.








For the air in fuel system there is probably some kind of system how to get it out? Also maybe someone know how to properly adjust fuel pump?




Also, I change rims and tires, there was good offer for R16 Hydra rims. Actually, in Latvia there no chose for Volvo 200/700/900 series rims, so I was very happy to find something.



before


now
kalns_rsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2018, 08:46 AM   #2
kalns_rsi
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Latvia, Riga
Default

About the glow plugs problem, I found out that there was a problem with bad contact at glow plug relay. Now it's working and no more engine cranking for 15-20 sec. Also no big vibrations and blue smokes. Now there is only white smokes :D and lot of them first 5-10 minutes.
kalns_rsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2018, 08:59 AM   #3
Cwazywazy
Single jingle
 
Cwazywazy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Granby CT
Default

As for the fuel filter, you can prefill it with diesel if you're worried about air. I didn't, caused no issues.
__________________
I don't know what I have
Cwazywazy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 03:34 AM   #4
kalns_rsi
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Latvia, Riga
Default

Last weekend visited junkyard. There was 1984 - 245 GLT, unfurtunatlly lot of parts already was gone. Interior was in good shape, but lot of interior plastic parts was broken and looks like because some one was used brute force to take out some parts (blower fan, small gauges etc.) But I get some parts for my D24 as well. Also I get big tachometer gauge, and I want to make convert, from 4cylinder gas tach to diesel.
Does any body have expierence with converting Volvo 240 gas tach to diesel?
kalns_rsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 08:59 AM   #5
kalns_rsi
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Latvia, Riga
Default

Seerching in Google, I found tach threat in D24T.com, but looks this forum is dead or it’s impossible to register (get active account to view pictures and post). But this threat lead me to vwdiesel.net where somone was converted VW VDO 4cylinder gasoline engine tachometer to diesel tachometer and there was pictures and schemes. Since VDO produced tachometers for Volvo 200 series also, I check out my Volvo 245 4cylinder gasoline engine tachometer. Visauly it looks different from VW tachometer, but scheme is alsmot identical. Only two exceptions – Volvo tachometer has extra 56k ohm resistor and capacitor C2 is wired different. I don’t have any expierence about eletricity, but I hope this won’t make any problems.

Volvo 245 (1984) 4cylinder gasoline engine tachometer.


VW (jetta ?) VDO 4cylinder gasoline engine tachometer.

VW VDO 4cylinder gasoline engine tachometer scheme.

VW VDO gas tachometer converted to DIESEL .

VW VDO gas tachometer converted to DIESEL scheme.



This is original posted in vwdiesel.net by regcheeseman
“First up the VDO unit...
The gasser board before

replace R1 with 100 ohm
leave R2
replace R3 with wire link
replace R4 with 191 ohm
replace R5 with wire link
replace R6 with 10K
replace R7 with 15K

replace C1 with 10nF
remove C2
leave C3
remove C4
replace C5 with 47nF
fit C6 3.3uF in vacant spaces next to tacho motor (red and blue) wires or desolder wires from board, fit cap and then solder wires to cap wires/board.

adjust RV1 to mid range

The final working board.

Note the two resistors joined together are because I could not find a 191 ohm resistor so joined a 180 and a 10.

C6's value is not critical, I used a 2.7 instead of a 3.3, it works fine without this cap altogether and I believe is only there to stop needle flutter (I didn't have a problem with or without this fitted)”

So, I will try to convert Volvo 200 series tach the same way and I will post some pictures and results.

Last edited by kalns_rsi; 03-19-2018 at 09:47 AM..
kalns_rsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2018, 07:57 AM   #6
kalns_rsi
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Latvia, Riga
Default

So finally converted. (see pictures below)

Resistors:
R3 and R5 was replaced by 0 ohm resistors instead of wire.
R4 was made from 2 resistors, 180 ohm + 10 ohm
I take 0,25W, but next time I would take a bigger ones 1W or even 2W, because there is enough space for it.

Capacitors:
C1 (0,01uF/ 10nF) and C5 (0,047uF/ 47nF) was polymer film capacitors. In scheme C5 should be polar, but I couldn’t find polar 47nF (smallest was 100nF/0,1uF) and originally C5 was polymer film capacitor. C6 - 3,3uF, I choose non-polar electrolytic capacitor, because of size (C6 is already very close to the motor). Same 3,3uF film capacitor is almost 3 times bigger than electrolytic, also VDO already made holes where perfectly fits electrolytic 3,3uF capacitor. But it's not only for the C6, C5 47nF was smaller than original 220nF and there were already holes for this capacitor. So overall if this all will work, I think the VDO for D24 use the same micro scheme plate, but with different electric parts on it.





New bulbs and new odometer gear , ready to test it


Now I had to find W terminal on alternator. But any way I plan to install new alternator from 900 series D24 type engine, and they should have W terminal because they all have originally tachometers as standart.
kalns_rsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2018, 11:15 AM   #7
kalns_rsi
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Latvia, Riga
Default

Today I was surprised - looks like, it's really working.

First, looks like that I already have alternator from 700 or 900 series D24, because the plate with technical data is at engine side - impossible to see something unless it's taken off, also there was already cable from terminal "W". I just connect it to tachometer (terminal 1 ) and it's working. And looks like it's working more or less precisely. But now I fun out next problem, low oil pressure light doesn’t work. It never comes "on" even if I disconnect low oil pressure switch.

Green cabel , terminal "W"




kalns_rsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2018, 11:16 AM   #8
Cwazywazy
Single jingle
 
Cwazywazy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Granby CT
Default

Nice work with the tach. My low oil pressure light doesn't work either. I believe the wire has to be grounded for the light to come on.
Cwazywazy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2018, 01:26 PM   #9
ortho stice
Board Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Braddock, PA
Default

Don't worry too much about air in the lines. Do you have a hand pump? If so just pop the return line off the top of the injection pump and pull through there with a pump. Then loosen the injection lines at the injectors with a 17mm wrench and crank the motor over until they're wet. Tighten the lines back down and crank it over again and it'll start right up.

As for setting the injection timing you need a dial indicator that threads into the back of the pump to properly set timing. However, you might have some luck doing it by ear. That's how I set mine on my old TD Quantum (Passat for you euros). Assuming you're happy with the idle and don't want to mess with the "smoke screw" (which probably still has the security collar installed) you can just loosen the hold down bolts on the injection pump and ever so gently but firmly rotate the pump. Can't remember which way is which but I think it's towards the motor to advance, away from the motor to retard... Do this with the motor running for best results.
ortho stice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2018, 03:13 AM   #10
moise
Board Member
 
moise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: France
Default

good work for tacho!!!!!!
moise is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2018, 06:34 AM   #11
kalns_rsi
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Latvia, Riga
Default

So the car is back on the road. Now the car is more or less OK, but need new painting and D24 engine ,even after new injectors and fuel system cleaning, are still "gathering speed". For city traffic, it's OK, just switch gears at 3500 rpm or higher 4500-5000 if faster acceleration is needed. But the fuel comsumption is pretty low - 28-29 MPG in the city and 36-39 MPG at Highway. Since diesel is cheaper than gasoline in Latvia, the car is perfect for family rides during the weekend, when you slowley drive long distances. Still missing rear black trim on the rear bumper. I have rusty chrome trim, probolby I'll just paint them black. Also back mudgards, remote central lock and spacers for rear wheels. I see that if I put 16 'Hydras (ET 25 not 20) with 225/55 tires, they sometimes touch the inner arch wall.

Some pics below.







kalns_rsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 12:42 AM   #12
Elliott
Board Member
 
Elliott's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Sandy Eggo, CA
Default

Great photos! Next time I am in Estonia, we should get a beer and exchange Volvo stories.
__________________
1991 240 : Undergoing Resto
Elliott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2019, 07:09 AM   #13
kalns_rsi
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Latvia, Riga
Default

D24 to D24T or just adding Turbo.

So parts what I needed was:

- Turbo from D24T , basically 700 series , in Europe there was also some 900 series with D24T
- Oil return line for turbo
- Exhaust manifold from D24T or it can be also from D24Tic
- Intake manifold from D24T
- Oil cooler with oil filter mount. Oil cooler is just a heat exchanger Water/Antifreeze - Oil. The good thing about this oil cooler, that in winter time I think it could work as oil heater - when cooling system fluid helps heating up oil, but I don't know if it works as a serious oil cooler, since I don't have any way how to check oil temperature, it's just guessing.
- Oil pan rebuilt, adding hole for oil return line and also I made hole for oil catch can return line. Taking off the oil pan was the hardest part, I don't know how , but I took out it without taking off engine crossmember, but it was impossible to put it back. Since I was down there and I change motor mounts, almost all bushings at front, new shocks, strud mounts etc. And when I done it front, I release that rear axel also need new shocks, bushings etc.
- Custom exhaust pipe. Firstly, I thought that I could put exhaust from D24T 700/900 series with little modification. But it didn't fit and custom exhaust pipe was cheaper. Firstly when I go to the workshop, which made exhaust pipe , without exhaust pipe I thought it would be terrible, but actually it wasn’t so bad at all, just few db more than D24 with full exhaust system, only turbo sounded like a vacuum cleaner. So I go to the 65mm straight pipe , unfortunately , in Latvia it's not allowed to have just straight pipe, so i need to add something that looks like silencer. Also I made mistake that exhaust pipe goes above rear axel, because there is little space and when the car is loaded and bumpy roads , exhaust pipe touch rear axel. But any way straight pipe isn't too loud, because turbo absorbs lot of noise, and good thing, turbo starts spooling at lower rpm.

I use the same N/A fuel pump, but I have also fuel pump from D24Tic 900series with automatic transmission. Theoretically it has 11mm head instead of 10mm, but any way, both fuel pumps except this vacuum LDA, is the same. As I understood, this vacuum LDA reduce fuel amount when there is no boost. Because with N/A pump I could turn fuel screw more (now around 2 1/4 turns in) , but then I would have problems with idle rpms. Fuel injectors the same from N/A , but I also have D24Tic fuel injectors, maybe later I will change with fuel pump. Alternator is the same, just 10mm shorter belts. Before I have 975mm and now 965mm. I have problems with air intake. D24T box from 700/900 series didn't fit, so I put conical filter behind the grill in front of cooling radiator.

Overall, adding turbo makes this D24 alive, it accelerates much better and also fuel consumption is more or less the same. For daily driving I run it with 12 psi boost, probably later I will add intercooler.











Last edited by kalns_rsi; 01-31-2019 at 09:50 AM..
kalns_rsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2019, 02:59 PM   #14
Vol242vo
Board Member
 
Vol242vo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Spokane, WA
Default

You’re a brave man. I’ve got snow here too and wouldn’t even think about doing what you are out there!
__________________


Derek - 1980 242
Vol242vo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2019, 02:30 PM   #15
Mick13
Board Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: South France
Default

Nice work, but why 2 aloy block welded on the oil pan ?
Ok for the return line from turbo, but what are the second for ?
Mick13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2019, 07:36 AM   #16
kalns_rsi
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Latvia, Riga
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick13 View Post
Nice work, but why 2 aloy block welded on the oil pan ?
Ok for the return line from turbo, but what are the second for ?
Sceond when you don't do it right at first time :D I don't know how, it was preaty late and I have all drawings near by me, but I cut a hole in oil pan at wrong place. Now I used it for Oil catch can return line, so at least something useful.
kalns_rsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2019, 05:03 PM   #17
Mick13
Board Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: South France
Default

that's a good reason
I've done it sometimes also !
Mick13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:51 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.