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Old 01-31-2018, 09:02 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt b View Post
Amazon #4 took me 2 months and that was with putting in 15-20 hours a week. But it's a daily now.

And as most people would recommend: it's probably better not to add up the receipts.
thanks for quoting me so I can see just what an illiterate I am


took the car to my friends exhaust shop today. I should be getting it back friday. I did not feel like crawling under the car and redoing it myself. He does great work for the cheap

looks like I have some pressure washing to do. I also need to replace the lower control arm bushings





tons of rattle rattle in the mufflers. Whoever installed the bigger one went with used and then proceeded to make pipe over the axle kinked up 1.25" with booger welding

Last edited by Jack; 01-31-2018 at 09:27 PM..
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Old 02-04-2018, 06:51 PM   #102
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got the exhaust done


painted the back side of the door panels with epoxy





letting it dry in today's perfect weather - 70F
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:35 AM   #103
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Looking good. Worried about the moisture on the new panels?
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:14 PM   #104
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Looking good. Worried about the moisture on the new panels?
Thanks.
Not anymore. I did this to my 245s almost perfect panels few years ago and it they look great every time I had to take them off.

Just a little finishing touch and a piece of mind for $10
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:17 PM   #105
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trunk lid was pretty rusted where the body seal meets the trunk. I have this older style trunk handle/license plate light lid with B18 emblem in corner, Matches the original paint :/

before
http://turbobricks.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=44

after
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Old 05-22-2018, 11:29 AM   #106
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I love the early style trunk release. Looks good dude.
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Old 07-28-2018, 12:59 AM   #107
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I love the early style trunk release. Looks good dude.
Thank you. They are so much better

Been driving this thing almost daily. Last weekend I took the kids to a water hole about 20 miles from my house in the mountains. When I got there the car wouldn't start ... no fuel. I figured out it was the fuel up after doing the old suck/spit/blow routine. Got it home that day with no issues - good thing because there's no cell reception for miles and miles there

here's some pictures






Next day I drove it to Chico (about 20 miles from my house also) knowing that I might not make it .... well I got stuck at two four lane lights - I was the first car and I had to push it ... good thing these a light

called sister and drove home to grab a spare pump I had. Thanks to Eric I grabbed two gaskets and shmo... It goes - fuel pump-shmo - gasket-spacer- gasket

10 min later I was done




Been teaching my 11yo daughter to drive - after her 3rd lesson she can now start go to first then second and back down again in a parking lot without stalling it all by herself

however she over cranked the pass-front window and it dropped. I have everything taken apart as I'll be refreshing everything like I did on the driver font

4

today, while waiting for some rust neutralizer to dry overnight I decided to finally replace the BJs and lower CA bushings - old ones were completely gone





ran out of daylight

Lower CA - do you tighten the main bolt wile arm is in the dropped position or like it would be if sitting on ground ? or does it even matter ?
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Old 07-28-2018, 01:15 AM   #108
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Yes, it matters. Tighten the big bolt with the weight on the wheels or you'll tear the center sleeve out of the bushings.
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Old 07-28-2018, 01:29 AM   #109
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Pretty much anything with rubber, tighten it at ride height. Poly doesn't matter since they pivot.
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Old 07-28-2018, 02:44 AM   #110
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Thanks guys. Are those fuel pumps rebuildable or toss it ?
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:44 PM   #111
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Dig the resurrection. Would love to see some pics of it out and about as well as hear when you think you'll get to body paintwork?
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Old 07-28-2018, 11:28 PM   #112
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Dig the resurrection. Would love to see some pics of it out and about as well as hear when you think you'll get to body paintwork?
Thank you. I found original color matching Duplicor - Ford Wimbledon White (I need to double check name) I been toying with the idea of painting each panel individually but it's a damn lot of work to do it decent. Probably in the fall.

Today I finished up the pass front side - even did the BJ flip; it lowered the front end by 1! finger - 1960s low
pressure washed everything too





normal BJ location - 4 fingers


BJ fliped - 3 fingers - WOOP!!!!!!



driver side lower condition of bushings -





I messed up pressing in one of the bushings will need to order one from HIPerfromanceAuto
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Old 07-29-2018, 08:36 AM   #113
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Hi Jack

"even did the BJ flip"


this is a really bad idea. Think about the stress you did add to the screws now.
Have you ever seen lower lower ca with cracks at this area? You will know why they crack at this point....

Yes to all the other babys, don't scream: I know you drove thousands of miles about all roads with this.
It is still dangerous and a bad idea, only used by people with now money in the wallet.

sorry, this mod is a really TB style mod and will be fine

cheers, Kay
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Old 07-30-2018, 05:31 PM   #114
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^Everyone makes it seem as if its a huge difference in height ... nope
Even volvo did it back in rally days but "unlimited parts" and race car are a different story. I just ordered some Lowering spranglangs


I need your opinion guys, since I have the pass front door taken apart I found one rust spot on bottom front corner - an actual hole. I have a spare rust free door but paint is the original matching not respray

replace and paint it with original paint ?
or leave old door ?




Last edited by Jack; 07-30-2018 at 05:38 PM..
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:22 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone View Post
Hi Jack

"even did the BJ flip"


this is a really bad idea. Think about the stress you did add to the screws now.
Have you ever seen lower lower ca with cracks at this area? You will know why they crack at this point....

Yes to all the other babys, don't scream: I know you drove thousands of miles about all roads with this.
It is still dangerous and a bad idea, only used by people with now money in the wallet.

sorry, this mod is a really TB style mod and will be fine

cheers, Kay
The way to do the ball joint "flip" correctly is to cut the mounting ears off of the old BJ's and mount them in the stock position under the LCA. This will require longer bolts to go through both of the BJ mounting ears and the LCA. I had my car set like this but with the IPD lowering springs decided to mount the BJ's in the stock position. It sit just right IMO!
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Old 08-02-2018, 09:22 PM   #116
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^that's a good idea. Where did you get your rear window custom gasket?



yesterday and today I got the original door removed - I cheated by loosening the fender. New door got sanded, primered ,painted, installed - I'll tighten everything up once hardware is in



removed all rust




primer


paint - 3 coats on the inner door. Waiting for 3rd on the outside






I also replaced the bushing I crushed with a new one
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Old 08-02-2018, 11:13 PM   #117
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I bought four new gaskets from IPD and cut and bonded them to the correct length. Nice job on the door.
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:45 PM   #118
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I bought four new gaskets from IPD and cut and bonded them to the correct length. Nice job on the door.
thank you

Last few days



have two uppers and one lower from a lot I bought
The poly bushings are a Fukin pain in the ass to install - I had to use a strap and a comealong to be able to put the nut on


protip - remove the front bolt first or you will bend the arm like I did


one side done


while car was in the air I decided to replace the rear U joint, center support bushings and trans output flange

gif didnt come out as planned but its super loose


old bushings weren't too bad


new



"original" output huge flange



one from an M41 center was just a tiny bit too small


so I shaved off the giant one


smoke from the fires has been covering the sun - this is the best it's been in two days. Yesterday it was raining ash most of the day



took if for a drive, it's nice not the hear the suspension. The car finally feels like it can take turns




waiting on lowering springs and I should be installing the inner door panel tomorrow on driver front
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:23 PM   #119
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back together

new paint, all the gaskets, door panel, dynamat




even polished the door sill
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Old 08-07-2018, 07:46 AM   #120
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That's looking nice, Jack.
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Old 08-07-2018, 11:04 AM   #121
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Indeed it is. Man those new door cards are sharp.
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Old 08-11-2018, 01:47 AM   #122
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Quote:
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That's looking nice, Jack.
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Quote:
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Indeed it is. Man those new door cards are sharp.
thanks guys, I love working on this car. Door cards are super nice


today these showed up and ..... (I need to take a picture of the letter that came with these "sorry we use to sell them red but now they are black"





I replaced driver rear drum because studs were stripped




Rides great actually. Now I need to pick up Bilstein HDs and IPD bar from my Chewbacca friend... old school yellows made in "Western Germany"



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Old 08-11-2018, 08:07 PM   #123
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got more stuff in the mail today. Fix one problem discover 50yo? parts are a pos clutch pedal/clutch has been doing weird stuff for 4 days. Randomly I have to press the pedal twice to get it into gear and yesterday it started to feel like clutch is slipping...................... probably not related. The slave is new and the fluid in master is super dark so I just ordered a new wilwood. See what the clutch does after

gasket is for trans output - had I known I'll be replacing the clutch I would have ordered front seal also
new braided clutch hose. Everything ordered from HiPerfomance Automobile


Installed the same shift knob I have in my other cars.

I also installed a new fuel sender so I can finally know how much gas I actually have. I ran out of gas twice already - all in front of my house. Now that I'm more committed to keeping this thing, buying parts and working on it is a lot easier.


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Old 08-12-2018, 09:25 PM   #124
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Replaced the recently replaced fuel pump with NOS Volvo unit.

leaking out of weep hole - fuel on engine mount




spacer that was on broke while I was removing the gasket ... I was gentle. I put a less fuked up one I had around- left


new, now with clamps


replaced the clutch master and the soft line
old with dirty fluid (less than a year old)




you have to swap the rod from the old one onto the Wilwood. REMEMBER to seat the C-clip right - I didnt


while the master was off. I removed old paint and did a quick primer and paint job. Also cleaned up the hardline


Clutch is slipping. Picked up a 6bolt flywheel from friend, I will drop it off at machine shop tomorrow and get that ready
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Old 08-12-2018, 11:15 PM   #125
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That old one was nasty
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