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Old 02-11-2018, 10:03 PM   #76
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Love your updates, this is going to be a bitchin' wagon.
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:59 PM   #77
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Thanks!
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:59 PM   #78
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Got the P1800 hubs drilled and tapped for 5x4.5 tonight. The studs are Strange Engineering 1/2-20, 3" long. They are so long because I anticipate running a pretty thick spacer on the front, but worst case I'll just screw them out and get some shorter ones. I got the thread in type because the hub really doesn't have much meat left on the outer edge of the hole after the re-drill. Just using a thread in type let me have a smaller hole diameter than a press in stud would, thus more material on the outside of the hole.

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Old 02-13-2018, 11:14 PM   #79
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Repainted the hubs today and got the brake rotors fit. I had to drill the lug holes in the rotors out from 12mm to 14mm to go over the 1/2" studs, but that was quick and easy. I did a quick test fit inside of the wheels and the initial results are promising. The caliper won't clear my wheel without a spacer but I intend on having to run one anyways so no worries there. The clearance of the outside of the caliper however is great, no worries on them hitting the 16s. I think this will be plenty of brakes for this thing, as it's pretty light and the vented rotors are a big upgrade over stock.





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Old 02-15-2018, 12:02 AM   #80
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Hell yeah, looks awesome!
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:05 PM   #81
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Updates! I've been doing weeks and weeks of monotonous grinding, fitting, removing, grinding, cussing, grinding, then lots of painting.

I also got a new phone that takes decent pictures, so maybe I'll have more material for this thread in the future lol.

I've finally got the suspension about 90% finished. The only thing I've got left to finish is the sway bar. I ordered a poly bushing and bracket kit, but I was unaware that the brackets changed in 67. I'll have to modify my car to fit, the later ones are much stronger.





I also got my MS3Pro in, and for some reason I thought they were smaller than the MS1...I'll have to explore places under the very small 122 dash to put this thing.



I've also had the 1800 rear end rebuilt with new bearings, seals, and 4:10 gears. The 4:30 would have just been too much for this car so I got it swapped out. Good thing too, the shop said that the carrier had spun a bearing, and that would have been no bueno on my upcoming cross-country trip in this thing.

After receipt from the axle shop I painted it up and threw it in the car. I still need to finish weld the upper link brackets to the chassis, re-make one of the lower bars, and make some limiting straps, but aside from that it's done. I have high hopes that it won't come back out of the car.





You may remember that I was putting bag-overs on the front of this thing and it was an obscene amount of work. Well that's done too, and I've finally got the cross member in and everything bolted up. This should be final as well.



I also decided to change to 740 rotors for the front and an adaptor. This is in lieu of the redrill that I did, I got the pattern off center on one of the hubs. I'll try and find another set, but in the mean time this will work.

Note that I'm using the stock sway bar pick up points. They have been moved, but they are the same apart from that.



Given these developments today I was finally able to set the car back on the ground and roll it back and forth in the shop. I can't express how excited I was to see this:












Laid out it tucks about an inch of tire in the rear and almost all of it in the front. I think it could use a little more spacer in the front, but the offset in the rear is perfect with no spacer at all. This is sitting on bump stops too, if I didn't have them it could go at least a half inch lower all around.

Also note, I got a roof box for cheap. This will also help on the aforementioned trip this summer.

Here's a shot of the front cross member at the lowest ride height. It's...close . But the car won't be driving when it's this low so it's all good. You can also see the air lines for the front bags, they'll be routed down the frame rails on each side.



Next up, trans rebuild, final clutch and engine install.

Last edited by stick70; 04-01-2018 at 11:13 PM..
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Old 04-02-2018, 08:01 PM   #82
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Came here to drool again. That's some beautiful work
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Old 04-02-2018, 08:42 PM   #83
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Awesome work Kyle, very nice rear axle and suspension set up.
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Old 04-02-2018, 11:20 PM   #84
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Fuuuuu...
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Old 04-03-2018, 11:53 AM   #85
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Nice work so far, this is gonna be sweet. Did you add that tow hook on the front crossmember? I don't think either of my Amazons have it.
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Old 04-03-2018, 12:37 PM   #86
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That's guys! Yeah one of my parts cars is a 72 1800es, the tow hook was cut off of that and welded on mine. I'm also planning on using the steering box out of that car.
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Old 04-03-2018, 12:54 PM   #87
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My ‘67 has a tow hook there that appears to be from the factory.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:45 PM   #88
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I think it may have changed at that year split like all the other little things. I've crawled around under the car enough hooking a strap to it I figured a hook would be a good idea.
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Old 04-03-2018, 07:35 PM   #89
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Yeah because otherwise your dad would just rip the whole god damn crossmember off trying to flat tow you home at 9:00 pm.
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Old 04-03-2018, 10:55 PM   #90
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Yeah because otherwise your dad would just rip the whole god damn crossmember off trying to flat tow you home at 9:00 pm.


I told him to take it easy. "Ah it'll be fine."
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Old 04-04-2018, 10:19 PM   #91
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Got limiting straps tacked on the rear axle tonight. I believe these are stock replacements, I just cut them down and moved them to the front of the axle to work better for my application. It sucks I didn't do this before painting the axle but oh well, I'll just fog it again and it'll be fine.

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Old 04-04-2018, 10:51 PM   #92
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Yeah well your limiting strap bracket things are on upside down
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Old 04-04-2018, 11:10 PM   #93
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Nah man, they're fine
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Old 04-10-2018, 10:22 PM   #94
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Some updates...

I'm getting one of the wheels warrantied because the center was welded in off center and it had a wicked wobble. Also getting the front adapters re-made because the bolt circle was off center from the center of the adapter.

Aside from that I've been working on steering. Tonight was focused on bending the steering arms to try and get rid of some of the bump steer this thing is bound to have. I've got a bump steer gauge I'll measure it with, but this is about as best as I can do for now.



Got the flywheel resurfaced as well. It's going to hold a 850R pressure plate with a custom disk I had made from California Custom Clutch. The car will only make like 200 hp, so I just went with a full face organic disk. I'm sure it'll be fine.





Also big props to Stephen for hooking me up with his welding skills on the oil pan. I think it came out great. I had the machine shop true it up a little when they resurfaced the flywheel, so it's nice and flat.





I'm still waiting on parts to trickle in, but as soon as my pickup tube comes in the engine will be more or less ready to rock.
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Old 04-11-2018, 12:07 AM   #95
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Did Stephen weld a dick inside your oil pan ? Not saying I'm offended, I think it would be hilarious .

Crazy that the adapters were off center, who did you use ?
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:31 AM   #96
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Yeah theres a micro-penis in my oil pan.

I used motorsport tech for the adapters. I've used them in the past with great results, this was just really odd. The wheel I had on the front spins true on the rear axle, and a stock wheel spins true on the front hub. Nothing is out of place with the lugs, studs, etc. The only explanation was the adapter. The sales guy said that it has happened before, albeit it's very rare. He didn't like setting up adapters for lug-centric setups but this was far enough out I could see the adapter bouncing on the hub.
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:10 AM   #97
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Yeah theres a micro-penis in my oil pan.

I used motorsport tech for the adapters. I've used them in the past with great results, this was just really odd. The wheel I had on the front spins true on the rear axle, and a stock wheel spins true on the front hub. Nothing is out of place with the lugs, studs, etc. The only explanation was the adapter. The sales guy said that it has happened before, albeit it's very rare. He didn't like setting up adapters for lug-centric setups but this was far enough out I could see the adapter bouncing on the hub.
Stephen wins!

I have similar adapters, glad I didn't have issues then.
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Old 04-12-2018, 03:08 PM   #98
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Yeah I have a full set on my 242 albeit they are hubcentric and I love them. He was easy enough to deal with however, and the second set is on the way to me as of yesterday.
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Old 04-16-2018, 01:34 PM   #99
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Got some work done on the car this weekend. The main goal was to get the engine and trans back in the car so that I could get it transfer it to the alignment rack. I worked on a couple of side things though. The first being the gauge cluster.

Anyone who has ever owned a 122 knows how bad the paint gets on the cluster face, I decided to give mine a refresh. I used SEM texture paint and color coat to bring it back to life.









I'm very happy with the final result. The texture isn't totally the same as the stock finish, but I think it looks great. The color is a little darker as well from standard, but I thought it would look a little better this way. I'll update this further as I assemble and install it.

I had to do a small amount of engine work before I deemed it good enough for install, namely cleaning. This was as good as I could get it, but I think it's good enough for now.



The oil pan I bought and had shortened was also missing a baffle, so I made one up out of sheet metal quickly.



Got the pickup tube shortened as well and threw it in.



Next step was engine install. I had to mount up the trans cross member as I hadn't done it earlier. It's held in with 1/2" bolts, and the frame rails have collars welded in them now for the bolts to clamp down onto.



Overall I'm very pleased with how every thing turned out on the oil pan. It clears the control arms, cross member, etc very nicely. I wish I could lower the engine some to help out with my driveshaft situation, but the oil pan is already too low in my opinion. It's just a hair under the cross member, but almost at the same level.



Plenty of exhaust room:





I think I'll just run a standard oil filter here, but I'm a little leery about a rock or something hitting it there. Maybe I'll make a shroud or something to go around it.



After I finish the alignment and steering on the front side I'll move back to the engine and start finalizing more stuff in there. Alternator and intake manifold will be first up on that front.

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Old 04-16-2018, 02:45 PM   #100
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Lookin good man! Nice work!
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