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Old 12-17-2017, 10:42 PM   #101
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Mad skills!
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:49 AM   #102
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Amazing work! Read the whole thread more than once.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:24 AM   #103
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Thanks Folks - laser cut parts came in as did the rails from Art Morrison. So we're right back to where we were a couple of months ago. The rails came flat packed in a box (I do make a few IKEA jokes in the next video). The final analysis and design of the new suspension is covered on the YouTube channel. This thread is a little a head of the videos...because editing that stuff takes a lot of time.

Episode 6
https://youtu.be/oTLr_pZ5lNU

Ok - so we're working on those LCA parts of the new cross member. They needed to be perfectly square in all dimensions. Sure do wish I had a mill - as doing this with a file is terrible work.






Can you believe that I spent about 6 hours making these perfect? Neither can I - I should make better choices.



So the idea is to mount the tabs to these as shown above. Then to put the bolt in double shear, I made these mount brackets.





A little clean up.


The way I wanted to mount these required a little bend on the bottom to make the join nice. This way I can reference the top and both sides of the tube when they get welded. I also wanted the full bushing to be captured on the LCA. So the difference required this design. The laser guys cut all these parts...so cheap.



Jigging these parts isn't easy either. I got lucky and the following looks like a winner. First a flat screw to pick up the centre of the laser cut hole.



A washer mounted and squared to the back was exactly the right size to sit in the tube (like tap with a hammer). What luck.



Bam - that looks like a winner.



Added some flat screws to the 1-2-3 blocks (these are my "good" ones - can't use them for welding...but for show only). Set the screws to exactly 57 mm.



Then something like this (did I mention I could use a mill?).



That should work.

You get the idea.



I then have to weld on the laser cut tubes. So nice to not have to cut this stuff with a hole saw.



Next up was cutting the AME bent rails. I turned the welding table into a frame rail jig with a little tube. This took several hours of measuring to get right...cutting and fitting the rails was simple.



I appreciated their efforts to give me a matched pair with weld lines on the same side for the bends...but the bends did have a little twist in them. Nothing I can do about these.



A little gusset can't hurt - these are going INSIDE the tube for a less agricultural look.



Nice TIG button welds. I've not finished these just yet - you're as up to date as can be. With luck, we'll get the rest of this done over the weekend.



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Old 12-20-2017, 02:27 AM   #104
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Beautiful fabrication.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:44 PM   #105
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Because you're such a safety conscious guy, I noticed in episode 2 when you're using the metal eraser belt sander, some sparks are headed directly backwards and hitting those jugs behind it on the shelves. I have no idea what's in those jugs but if it's anything flammable you may want to move them. Loving the videos
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Old 12-20-2017, 01:09 PM   #106
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Because you're such a safety conscious guy, I noticed in episode 2 when you're using the metal eraser belt sander, some sparks are headed directly backwards and hitting those jugs behind it on the shelves. I have no idea what's in those jugs but if it's anything flammable you may want to move them. Loving the videos
Thanks - that did make me think for a minute. It's easier to just put a shield on that machine as I have no place left to put things on shelves. Up high is just hand cleaner and some oil...but on the lower shelf is my parts cleaner! I'd better get that looked after before it becomes a problem.

I'm working on improving the sound in the videos - just got a wireless mic. It should help a little.

Now back to engineering a jig to hold that K-member.
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Old 12-22-2017, 09:02 PM   #107
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friggin fantastic!!
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Old 12-23-2017, 05:28 AM   #108
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At this level, this is not building or mechanic, this is art
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:41 PM   #109
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Aside from the usual Christmas garage wife ban and the weather, things got done. It's been colder than it really needs to be and controlling the TIG with my winter boots on sucks, but we just push on. Just for reference, this was the first of two dumps of snow in the past week.



Clamp the hell out of everything on the rails in a quest to have them not end up like pretzels.



Clamps...clamps...clamps.







Then with the buttons done, the rest got welded. Starting with the 2" side and ending with the longer weld. I stress relieved it with a hammer as I welded and also metal worked that little twist out of the rails. I'd rather not grind the welds.





Money shots.





That'll do.

On to the K-member.

Created a jig to position things. Then cleaned all the parts and got it ready to tack...this took 2 days.





Checked all the dimensions and level in every dimension.





All tacked up.





So that's it for now. The steering bracket has to be installed on the cross bar and that has to be fitted still. So far it's dead nuts in every measurable dimension. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
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Old 12-31-2017, 01:42 PM   #110
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I finally read all the way through this thread.

You're a f@#%ing madman, and I love it! I can't wait to see more.
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Old 12-31-2017, 02:19 PM   #111
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I've said this before, Craig, but whenever I go to a hot rod show I can always pick out the Canadian cars. The level of craftsmanship and attention to detail is almost always over the top! It must have something to do with your universal health care or the water. Whatever it is, you've definitely got it!

With that said I can't believe you rely on a bubble level to confirm your work. You need one of these:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digit...Fc98fgod2ysBhQ

Very affordable and super accurate to 0.1*. Cheers!
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:12 PM   #112
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It's because they have crappy winters and are stuck inside with nothing else to do but, screw, drink and build cars. Hmmmm, I need to move...
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Old 12-31-2017, 09:51 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLost View Post
I finally read all the way through this thread.

You're a f@#%ing madman, and I love it! I can't wait to see more.
What if I told you this is just the tip of the iceberg? And it was -45 degrees C outside this morning, so I know icebergs. LOL.

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I've said this before, Craig, but whenever I go to a hot rod show I can always pick out the Canadian cars. The level of craftsmanship and attention to detail is almost always over the top! It must have something to do with your universal health care or the water. Whatever it is, you've definitely got it!

With that said I can't believe you rely on a bubble level to confirm your work. You need one of these:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digit...Fc98fgod2ysBhQ

Very affordable and super accurate to 0.1*. Cheers!
Sears just went bankrupt in Canada!
Ya, I've got three of those Alan...and two digital Stabila's are more accurate than those things. The bubble levels are Stabila and good to 0.01 degrees. The little one was useful to check level between the LCA mounts and the 24" bubble Stabila was just what I had out at the time. I've checked it with my digital ones and it's dead.

The most annoying thing about the cheap digital levels is their sensitivity to zero and lack of sensitivity when 0.1 off. I've even run my various digitals through some simple tests and the less expensive ones are sometimes off versus the German ones...which at least are repeatable.

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It's because they have crappy winters and are stuck inside with nothing else to do but, screw, drink and build cars. Hmmmm, I need to move...
That's just a bit too accurate! Wind chill this morning did reduce the -45 to -50 C - it won't be that cold for long, but that's stupid.
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Old 01-01-2018, 12:23 PM   #114
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I'm really not keen on my lady friend's car (06 Saturn ion) but when it started in -41 C the other day, and my Volvo didn't, I had to admit defeat
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Old 01-01-2018, 03:19 PM   #115
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"Sears just went bankrupt in Canada!
Ya, I've got three of those Alan...and two digital Stabila's are more accurate than those things. The bubble levels are Stabila and good to 0.01 degrees. The little one was useful to check level between the LCA mounts and the 24" bubble Stabila was just what I had out at the time. I've checked it with my digital ones and it's dead.

The most annoying thing about the cheap digital levels is their sensitivity to zero and lack of sensitivity when 0.1 off. I've even run my various digitals through some simple tests and the less expensive ones are sometimes off versus the German ones...which at least are repeatable."

Well I guess I should have known that with the cold Canuckian winters you would have been meticulous enough to devise and perform your own digital level accuracy testing. Oy Vey!!
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Old 01-02-2018, 04:26 PM   #116
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Episode 7 is now out - just a quick unboxing and bracket making video. Progress. I'm a few weeks behind on video production.

https://youtu.be/SouIc8RcfTc

Last edited by Canuck; 01-02-2018 at 09:22 PM..
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Old 01-04-2018, 03:25 AM   #117
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Brian, get aload of this frame table. You need one!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7SeIAaraVQ
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Old 01-04-2018, 12:31 PM   #118
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Craig, get aload of this frame table. You need one!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7SeIAaraVQ
FTFY

I sure could have used one of these right from the start. I talked myself out of getting a couple of big H beams and it really was one of my biggest mistakes. My half table is working out fine - but I never should have pulled the rear end out without making a reference jig. Some metal scavenger then stole my original rear subframe and subframe jig from my back yard (bloody scrap scavengers are like Magpies).

Though watching that video of buddy using the wheel of death with out a face shield or other needed protection (at least he has the guard on the grinder) is horrifying. It's like he's never had one explode on him before!

Funny - I pulled the rear subframe out yesterday as two of the brackets were welded on in the wrong spot (140 thou wrong...FFS) and I've got to cut them off and move them. Wait until you see the horrifying jig set up to get a couple of parallel reference surfaces! LOL. It's so hard to get things square and level...the time I've wasted setting things up is epic. I'm not sure what a setup like that costs...but I suspect it's out of my meager means.

A couple of wide flange H-beams would have been a fantastic investment. Then again, I didn't think this was going to get this out of hand.
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Old 01-04-2018, 09:21 PM   #119
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My bad, CRAIG. I must have been thinking of some other crazy canuck!

I'd bet that frame jig is in the six digit range. Oh to be a 1%'er!
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:33 PM   #120
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Rocking through the rebuilding of the rails in the new episode!

More to come...though you're already ahead.

https://youtu.be/vt79rDuDMcs
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Old 01-31-2018, 03:51 PM   #121
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Time for an update. The IRS subframe has become a bit of a gong-show in this build. It's been in and out of the car so many times. I cover the details in the latest installment on my YouTube channel (https://youtu.be/mvSg3Plb5nE) but let's just say that I thought it was OK last spring when I finished it up and put it in the car. I just didn't put the control arms and uprights and tires on to check. Mind you...I didn't weld the sheet metal in either. So it turns out not only were the passenger side brackets just a little out, but when I installed the frame, the bushing alignment pins at the front caught on the bushing sleeve and pushed it out of position. This, unbeknownst to me, racked the subframe. I should have double checked...but it looked fine. It was off, and I used that racked alignment to weld in the rear cross member. So the entire thing was borked - causing 1/2" more wheel base on the passenger side.

It was really noticeable when I installed the suspension and tried to locate the front end.

So I cut that junk out and we're doing it again.



A few brackets and gussets will also help.



Back together - basically dead on the angle I was looking for.



Here's the other side...the crappy level is good to 1/10° (I prove this in the video).



Caster side to side.




Weld it back together.




Drill out and remove the rear bushing alignment pins.



Make new pins.



Quick dust of paint so it won't rust while I finish the rest of the build.



And back in the hole - this time everything is perfect.

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Old 02-06-2018, 01:32 AM   #122
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Glad to see that worked out finally! I'll have to update my progress in the forum soon, but I did have a question I figured I'd ask about the tubular front end. I'm gonna have to do one in my car because of the crack of death and suspension subframe swapping that'll be taking place. Have you given any thought to how far outward (toward the tires/doors) a plate could be welded against the firewall to tie in the stress of the suspension forces to the a-pillar? Seems a bit tight and off-center to me without basically removing all the sheet metal, including the bits that the fender bolts to. I've seen a 122 that had a tubular front end but the pictures aren't specific as to how it was tied in and I believe it had a full tube chassis as well, meaning they could tie in whatever tubular front to whatever tubular cage in the cabin whereas I'll have to worry about transfering that load to the existing 1965 body. Hoping to avoid a full cage because I don't plan on racing it, but if I can't feel good about the way it'll come together I don't want to get caught halfway through and THEN decide I have to add a whole lotta tube to the rest of the car for rigidity.
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Old 02-06-2018, 03:49 PM   #123
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Glad to see that worked out finally! I'll have to update my progress in the forum soon, but I did have a question I figured I'd ask about the tubular front end. I'm gonna have to do one in my car because of the crack of death and suspension subframe swapping that'll be taking place. Have you given any thought to how far outward (toward the tires/doors) a plate could be welded against the firewall to tie in the stress of the suspension forces to the a-pillar? Seems a bit tight and off-center to me without basically removing all the sheet metal, including the bits that the fender bolts to. I've seen a 122 that had a tubular front end but the pictures aren't specific as to how it was tied in and I believe it had a full tube chassis as well, meaning they could tie in whatever tubular front to whatever tubular cage in the cabin whereas I'll have to worry about transfering that load to the existing 1965 body. Hoping to avoid a full cage because I don't plan on racing it, but if I can't feel good about the way it'll come together I don't want to get caught halfway through and THEN decide I have to add a whole lotta tube to the rest of the car for rigidity.

Heck, I'm glad someone's reading this thread! I'll be going over this in detail soon as the front end gets done. The short version would go like this.

I worked for a long time to work out why the "Crack of Death" happens. What I came up with was the sheet metal that supports the frame is not adequate for the job over the long haul (I shudder even saying this...brickboard flash-backs). I've looked at a lot of modern cars and all have much more substantial material joining front suspension upper parts to the A-pillar. Regardless if they are strut or SLA suspensions.

So then when I looked at my car I tried to work out a reasonable load path. I tried some cardboard mock-ups.



Didn't like it, but thought it would work.

Ended up mocking up some tubes and tape to see how silly it looked. Wasn't silly.





Did up this straw model (have I shown all this before?)



Then how to implement this...well the box that joins the inner fenders was always coming out as it gets in the way of where I need the engine. The firewall can then be doubled up (ie either a box section (most likely) or tube (if needed) inside the car and can stretch all the way across the firewall not just ending at the inner fenders.

I haven't done that part just yet as I'm waiting to see where the engine ends up and how much of the front of the tunnel I need to take off.

So if you didn't want the tube solution (which is dramatic) then I would go with a variant of what I have shown in cardboard. There is room to do this without fouling the fender stiffening panel and you can always add to the fire wall inside the car to help out there. Then I would bridge the frame where it goes under the car and turn it from being a dirt/leaf trap into a more useful structural piece.
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Old 02-06-2018, 03:49 PM   #124
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Oh and Episode 11 is now ready for no one to watch. LOL.

https://youtu.be/NF5Sq85XuSI
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Old 02-06-2018, 04:52 PM   #125
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Reading and love every update but not to good on commenting. Keep up the awesome work!
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