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Old 09-16-2017, 02:12 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by matt b View Post
Throw some rocks from the driveway and shake it around!

Bill Hursch sells a good tank sealer, I've used on a lot of different cars and I have never had an issue. Glad to see you working on this thing again.
The "new" tank doesn't leak

I did the old tumble rock clean with a small motorcycle tank and wanted to just go and buy a new one by the time I was done. It takes a LOT of shaking to clean it.
I'm off to home chepo to get more goof off and look for some "matching" spray paint. I'm cleaning the trunk up while in there

removed most of the sound deadening with a razor blade. If you get it at the correct angle it comes off easily without scratching anything. Wire wheeled the rust off and sealed it with rust seal. Not done yet, just pictures are always good...


applied the same stuff to the tank

Last edited by Jack; 09-16-2017 at 07:03 PM..
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Old 09-16-2017, 05:04 PM   #77
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The sealer prevents rust, it's not meant to patch. I was tired of replacing filters on a Land Cruiser and did its tank, it was night and day.
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Old 09-16-2017, 06:24 PM   #78
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The sealer prevents rust, it's not meant to patch. I was tired of replacing filters on a Land Cruiser and did its tank, it was night and day.
ahh ok that makes sense. I will look into it. Thanks


Found a hole that I will patch as some point. Crappy spot to cut out but I'll manage. Rusted from the inside out.


test spray - kind of matches but it's satin


ready for paint


First coat. I also need to patch part of the butt cheek. I'll attack the rust when I'll fix the floor boars inside the cab (soon)


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Old 09-16-2017, 06:35 PM   #79
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Well that came out nice. If you ever want to sell this thing for fairly cheap, I've been thinking about swapping all my 140 turbo stuff to a 122...
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Old 09-16-2017, 06:41 PM   #80
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Well that came out nice. If you ever want to sell this thing for fairly cheap, I've been thinking about swapping all my 140 turbo stuff to a 122...
Thanks

dude I got 4 total... of course I want to sell... call me or PM
just specify the number of doors you want
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Old 09-16-2017, 07:17 PM   #81
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My 2 door has a rust spot in the same area, I suspect the lack of trunk seal caused it.

Nice work on cleaning up the trunk, looks a million times better.
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Old 10-04-2017, 02:46 AM   #82
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welp after nearly blowing myself up ... I'm now waiting for a tank from the Librarian brothers.

de-rusted the tank, came out nice. installed with new gaskets, looking all fukin fancy. it starts to leak from around the drain hole bung. FUK. I drain the tank wait 2 days. Being lazy I said welp I'll just try to re-flow the solder/lead while tank is still installed on the car....light the torch and BOOM! tank is a pillow and some residual gas is now on fire under the car. run to the garage for extinguisher and done
I forgot to flush it with water ...

probably one of the dumbest things I have done and I even had the water hose next to me to flush it but rushed to the repair. Apprentice move.
(I need to take a picture of it)





Meanwhile. I finally have a door and window that doesn't rattle ... actually I still need to order the bottom out gasket - because I always forget something from Eric and Ian

replaced all the window gaskets, derusted the lip, painted (forgot to take pictures) put putty where it should go etc...


All done. Vent window done by Eric himself. "You know it was Eric because I would have cleaned it" - Ian. But I didnt see any penis drawings on it .. so I dont know what to believe

Last edited by Jack; 10-04-2017 at 09:38 AM..
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:53 AM   #83
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That cleaned up the exterior quite a bit! The seats look salvageable, is it just popped seams ?
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Old 10-04-2017, 09:52 AM   #84
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That cleaned up the exterior quite a bit! The seats look salvageable, is it just popped seams ?
Thanks. Trying to make the car somewhat presentable, I have a long way to go. I'll be doing the floors soon. Got the floor parts just waiting on other projects to get out of the way.

Seat does just have the seams burst. Suggestions?
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...7&postcount=38


Why I haven't been driving it much so far
1. Got it registered - clutch slave goes bad 5 min into my legal drive around
2. Replaced clutch masters and slave cylinders - brakes go bad
3. Replaced brakes -Exhaust leak into cabin - replaced trunk seal
4. Exhaust smell gone now fuel smell in cabin - found leaking gas tank

Last edited by Jack; 10-04-2017 at 10:05 AM..
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Old 10-04-2017, 11:00 AM   #85
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Pop the covers off again and take them to an upholstery shop. Or if you have a friend who's in touch with his more delicate side, bring him a 6 pack. That's what I do, I enjoy watching my buddy hunched over his little sewing machine as much as I enjoy hanging out with him. Tattoos everywhere, big white beard and a tiny little machine.

I feel your pain on getting it road legal. It has felt like an uphill battle on mine too, I'm 4 weeks behind the schedule I had set myself and it's only because I assumed parts were good when they weren't.
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Old 10-28-2017, 09:54 PM   #86
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^ once I get the floors done I'll stop by an upholstery shop and see what they say.


Got a tank from Eric and Ian for a great price. It was covered with stock sealant/deadener. Pressure washed a lot of it off, then went to town with 4.5 inch wire brush on a grinder and used goof off for the final cleaning. It only took me about 40 min and it looks great.

found the drain bung solder ? or led? cracked. Using a torch and solder I fixed it

Crack


First pass all the shmoo came up


Cleaned it with goof off. I wasnt sure if solder or led so I added tons of solder.


finished



filler neck seal had two cracks





painted tank with semi gloss epoxy paint


got a running car again*

*needs water pump

found good reflector and put that on


installed beauty to hide wheels that need paint

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Old 10-29-2017, 05:09 PM   #87
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Looks good, good thing you found the tank cracks before using it.
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Old 11-02-2017, 01:43 AM   #88
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^
Thanks. Going to use the B18 emblem you sent me too

finally got around to replacing the water pump. Its been wobbling about 1/4 inch for some time now. I pulled it into my driveway just in time, the shet stain on driver fender is coolant spitting out from front of pump. I love working on this car, everything is so accessible. I used a grinder with a wire brush wheel to clean off behind the water pump. More pictures tomorrow



anyone know the correct position of the emblem ?

before


after

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Old 11-08-2017, 06:59 PM   #89
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TReplaced the water pump, thermostat and drive belt. Engine finally runs quietly

as per Ians instructions
I glue the gasket to the pump with Gasgacinch and put a little white grease on the gasket and the top seals. That way, the gasket will slide with the pump as you pry it upwards to squish the top seals to the head. The grease on the top seals prevents them from folding over as the pump is pulled tight to the block by the bolts. A little white grease on the heater and lower hose tube seals makes them easier to install as well.

Start the 2 top bolts and snug the pump to the block. Then use 2 phillips head screwdrivers or something similar in the bottom 2 holes to pry the pump up and tighten the top bolts enough to keep the pump from moving. It helps to have 2 people, but if your hand is large enough you can grab both handles at the same time with one hand while tightening the bolts with the other. Install the heater pipe and lower 2 bolts and tighten them all evenly. Don't forget the bolt that holds the lower water pipe.


painted the radiator, fan, pulley, lower water pipe. PO installed a metal t-stat housing that didnt work right. Replaced with used one


put new coolant hoses into the weber manifold. The coolant passage in the intake was clogged
are they routed correctly?
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Old 11-08-2017, 07:29 PM   #90
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The carb kit comes with a fitting that goes in place of the block off plate on the head forward of the exhaust manifold. A hose should go from there to the front of the intake and tee into the heater hose coming out the rear.

The fitting is right next to the carb and the tee is next to it.



Personally, I don't hook it up. I don't like cutting heater hoses and it's really only important in cold climates. Because of that, I have plenty of the fittings if you need one.
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Old 11-08-2017, 07:32 PM   #91
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Personally, I don't hook it up. I don't like cutting heater hoses and it's really only important in cold climates. Because of that, I have plenty of the fittings if you need one.
I forgot to post a picture of how I routed it. The PO has it all fuked with fittings, zip-ties and short hoses all over

as I was installing it. I was thinking that this isnt probably even necessary
I'll grab one of those fitting from you maybe next order.


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Old 01-16-2018, 10:19 PM   #92
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now that I can step away from bitcoin for more than few minutes I will post some slow progress. This took about half a day. The slowness comes from working on other stuff

Looks worse than it is. Take note that the insulation had asbestos up to 1967 cars, so cut those nose hairs before going in there with a wheel of death. It helps with inhalation and insulating your lungs



driver rear is the worst


extra floor panel from a donor because why new


only found rocks underneath


problem with the old panels - if they have any rust at all on them the welder blows right through - just takes a long time sometimes to finish it


test fit








still have some sanding from below, after that I will go over with body sealant and then paint
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Old 01-17-2018, 11:32 AM   #93
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Nice work, I like the use of a donor piece instead of a new one. It's coming along nicely.
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Old 01-19-2018, 12:36 PM   #94
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Well that came out nice. If you ever want to sell this thing for fairly cheap, I've been thinking about swapping all my 140 turbo stuff to a 122...
I think you would really like having one - in my mind and eye they have more style and soul than a 140 series car and a lot less plastic.

Put a different engine in your car, save what you've built and I think you could still get good money for it because of its look and patina.

Roll over the $$$ into a good rust free 122s that you should be able to find in Cal., and put your engine and turbo into it.
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Old 01-20-2018, 01:41 PM   #95
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Thanks Matt
Amazons really are K.I.S.S. and because of it I love working on them

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I think you would really like having one - in my mind and eye they have more style and soul than a 140 series car and a lot less plastic.

Put a different engine in your car, save what you've built and I think you could still get good money for it because of its look and patina.

Roll over the $$$ into a good rust free 122s that you should be able to find in Cal., and put your engine and turbo into it.
That’s his thinking too

He said my 122 coupe was too rough... well the front clip is off (still there) but the car has no
Rust at all in the original floors!

To me 240<140<122

Love the early 140s but the Amazons are an 11 in comparison


Side note: does anyone know if a 16v head fits on a swapped b23 in these cars. Different car will get a b23 with Webbers

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Old 01-29-2018, 10:42 PM   #96
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minor updates. It's a been a little too cold and wet to paint the floor. Removed insulation, wire brushed the surface rust, applied rust stabilizer, cleaned everything off and primed the rear floors for now. Next is paint and then body sealer






Today I replaced both tierods. Driver side was bent and the passenger outer was loose. Almost exactly like on wife's 72 beetle. Are the bends caused by idiot tow truck drivers?
I also replaced the completely blown shocks with semi good KYBs that came out of a 65

driver side


passenger side


old vs really old


couple of weeks ago I also picked up new door panels. You can only buy them in pairs and I thought they were spendy until I got them. The quality is amazing. I wont install until the floor is done. It's going to be weird driving with a door panel on the driver side - it's been missing since I got it

I like to paint the backing with epoxy so any moisture in the door wont cause rot. Rustolium refrigerator paint




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Old 01-31-2018, 12:56 PM   #97
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To me 240<140<122
After owning all of those plus a PV, I can add: 240<140<122<544
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Old 01-31-2018, 01:58 PM   #98
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I think you would really like having one - in my mind and eye they have more style and soul than a 140 series car and a lot less plastic.

Put a different engine in your car, save what you've built and I think you could still get good money for it because of its look and patina.

Roll over the $$$ into a good rust free 122s that you should be able to find in Cal., and put your engine and turbo into it.
As Jack said, that was my plan. I have decided that the 122 would have to be really clean for me to justify the work. I have little to no interest in body work/paint.

I'll keep building my car and if the perfect 122 pops up, I'll think about it. But even if I kept all the stuff I've built, it would still be a ton of work to get it into a 122.

Side note: Jack, the car's looking great!
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Old 01-31-2018, 03:21 PM   #99
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After owning all of those plus a PV, I can add: 240<140<122<544
There's a project 544 down the street from me that the guy has been trying to sell for a long time. Time is on my side so I approach him every 2 years and the price is always lower

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Side note: Jack, the car's looking great!
Im still offended

I totally get it
It takes a ton of time to just get the back on the road and even more time to do what you do
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:14 PM   #100
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It takes a ton of time to just get the back on the road and even more time to do what you do
Amazon #4 took me 2 months and that was with putting in 15-20 hours a week. But it's a daily now.

And as most people would recommend: it's probably better not to add up the receipts.
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