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Old 05-14-2018, 04:54 PM   #76
77volvo245
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WAIT YOU DO YARD WORK? ;p
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Old 05-14-2018, 04:58 PM   #77
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t56 should slide in with little to no mod to the tunnel, I would get this

https://www.rdefab.com/product-page/...reat-for-swaps
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:35 PM   #78
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Yeah I have a lot of property to take care of now.

Rear solenoid delete showed up Saturday =)
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:40 PM   #79
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You give any thought to bringing the heater hoses through the firewall on the passenger side - so you don't have to move them across the compartment? You can still fit the control valve in the same place -- just run a longer hose from that side back over the passenger side. Just a thought....
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Old 05-15-2018, 12:37 PM   #80
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This is awesome! I've been following through your Instagram!

I live near Eugene, I'd love to give help when you need it
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Old 05-15-2018, 01:15 PM   #81
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You give any thought to bringing the heater hoses through the firewall on the passenger side - so you don't have to move them across the compartment? You can still fit the control valve in the same place -- just run a longer hose from that side back over the passenger side. Just a thought....
I have thought about it, but I also have 2 additional intercooler lines to run from the back of the intake manifold all the way up to the front of the engine bay. I am unsure how I am going to get 4- 3/4" hoses around the bay and have it look clean. I am considering running them in 3/4" Stainless with flared ends and just flexible connections at the connections. Still figuring that part out. Trying to keep it clean without **** going everywhere is difficult.

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This is awesome! I've been following through your Instagram!

I live near Eugene, I'd love to give help when you need it
Thanks man. I am very new to the area and dont know anyone, seems like car dudes are few and far between.

Ill hit you up if I need a hand or let me know when you are in the area and you can stop in and say hi.

Should have a boat load of parts showing up this week, Trans will be ready for pickup Wednesday if all works out well, I pickup Thursday.

IPD Saturday so probably wont get much done until the following weekend.

Sean
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:37 PM   #82
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Trying to keep it clean without **** going everywhere is difficult.
Know what you mean -- I put a Classic Auto Air universal A/C system in mine when I pulled the Ford motor out and put the LS in. Heater and A/C all on the passenger side with limited real estate. That was part of the reason I went rattle can black -- try to "lose" some of the harness/hose in the sea of black.

You'll figure it out - you always do a good job of that.
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:36 PM   #83
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That's seems like at lot more work just to reroute the cooling hoses just me.
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:44 PM   #84
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I have thought about it, but I also have 2 additional intercooler lines to run from the back of the intake manifold all the way up to the front of the engine bay. I am unsure how I am going to get 4- 3/4" hoses around the bay and have it look clean. I am considering running them in 3/4" Stainless with flared ends and just flexible connections at the connections. Still figuring that part out. Trying to keep it clean without **** going everywhere is difficult.



Thanks man. I am very new to the area and dont know anyone, seems like car dudes are few and far between.

Ill hit you up if I need a hand or let me know when you are in the area and you can stop in and say hi.

Should have a boat load of parts showing up this week, Trans will be ready for pickup Wednesday if all works out well, I pickup Thursday.

IPD Saturday so probably wont get much done until the following weekend.

Sean
Let me get photos of how I'm running my heater lines and tranny cooler lines in mine. Its super clean.
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:46 PM   #85
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That's seems like at lot more work just to reroute the cooling hoses just me.
The heater hose line with the classic ac system is on the passenger side and makes it easier to hook them up coming through the passenger side.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:24 AM   #86
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The heater hose line with the classic ac system is on the passenger side and makes it easier to hook them up coming through the passenger side.
Was thinking more of Hackster having to route the LS heater hoses from the passenger side to the driver's side inside the engine compartment. That 'crossover' can easily be done behind the firewall minimizing the plumbing under the hood. In my experience, I try to avoid having plumbing run from one side of the compartment to the other side, especially behind the engine. And with the LS in the there, real estate around the brake booster/steering shaft/rearmost coil pack is limited. Access for maintenance becomes more challenging.

Either choice can be made to work -- just thinkin' out loud.
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Old 05-17-2018, 04:56 AM   #87
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Was thinking more of Hackster having to route the LS heater hoses from the passenger side to the driver's side inside the engine compartment. That 'crossover' can easily be done behind the firewall minimizing the plumbing under the hood. In my experience, I try to avoid having plumbing run from one side of the compartment to the other side, especially behind the engine. And with the LS in the there, real estate around the brake booster/steering shaft/rearmost coil pack is limited. Access for maintenance becomes more challenging.

Either choice can be made to work -- just thinkin' out loud.
I haven't found any issues being where they are stock spot with maintenance
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Old 05-17-2018, 06:45 AM   #88
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I had to deal with it a few times from 1996-2015 when mine was Ford powered.
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:15 PM   #89
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So last week was a total bust, I did manage to get the engine bay side of the brakes buttoned up. Mustang Master Cylinder, factory lines but all cleaned up, Wilwood proportioning valve on the rears.





Did a bunch of cleaning in the engine bay on the crossmember and some factory brake lines. Got things tidied up and ready for an engine. Had to buy a new cherry picker and assemble. Pulled the blower off for install and got it off the stand.



I got this installed and torqued down with all new ARP Fasteners. What a nice piece too.



Then I came to my 2 big snafuus of the weekend. The first one was all of fittings for the remote bleeder I ordered wer missing fromt he package, it was just a single hose in the bag. Second snafu was I did not order new pressure plate bolts, well I didnt order any pressure plate bolts so I had nothing.

I was pretty pissed at this point and walked away. Went and worked in the yard for a few hours. Then Kristi got me a little motivated and came out and helped for a few hours to get the engine and tranny bolted together and installed in the car!!

WOOOT!!!

Gotta come back out but at least I know it fits and the tranny tunnel needs some work.





I also got the very first production STS Hydro Clutch pedal and its pretty awesome!! Hope to get it bolted in the next few days.

Planning on taking some time off in the coming weeks as day after day of travel and work is taking its toll on me.

Happy Monday!!!

Sean
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:30 PM   #90
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Dare I ask what Kristi did to motivate you?
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Old 05-21-2018, 03:47 PM   #91
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Is the Mustang MC the same bore size for both front and back? The reason I ask is I did the same valve on my 242 when I first did the s60r brake swap (fake edit: 14 years ago. Damn I'm getting old) and I could NEVER get the rear brakes to stop locking up.

After I sold the car it kind of dawned on me, the "rear" bore size might be a lot larger and actually tied to the front brakes and front smaller to the rears. Would make sense from an assembly point of view.

Might be worth double checking.
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Old 05-21-2018, 04:57 PM   #92
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Id recommend switching back to the volvo reservoir.

I have heard a number of problems with the mustang cylinders being leaky.

Plus american reservoirs look out of place in euro engine bays

To fit the volvo reservoir, you just need 2 4mm o-ring spacers.

You will also need that reservoir to clear the brace.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:11 PM   #93
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Another clean, well-laid-out Hackster build. Love it.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:42 PM   #94
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Hard to tell from pic (which looks great!) - but engine mounting height + supercharger may cause brace clearance issues as well....but knowing Hackster, that’s already been thought thru.
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:12 PM   #95
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Hard to tell from pic (which looks great!) - but engine mounting height + supercharger may cause brace clearance issues as well....but knowing Hackster, thatís already been thought thru.
Yea, we talked about it, he's getting a raw one to play with. I was recommended that probably sectioning the bottom of the main cross bar and capping it would probably be necessary.
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:30 PM   #96
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I can confirm - you get about 1/4" of "help" if you place any strut tower reinforcement plate (for caster/camber plates) ABOVE the tower instead of under it. Raises the strut bar up by that much. In my case - allows it to barely clear the stock reservoir cap. SLIGHT interference with the underhood light switch when it's in the "on" position -- easily resolved by trimming the switch. I'd offer to provide measurements - but our engine heights are different I'd bet, so that won't help.
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:31 PM   #97
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Is the Mustang MC the same bore size for both front and back? The reason I ask is I did the same valve on my 242 when I first did the s60r brake swap (fake edit: 14 years ago. Damn I'm getting old) and I could NEVER get the rear brakes to stop locking up.

After I sold the car it kind of dawned on me, the "rear" bore size might be a lot larger and actually tied to the front brakes and front smaller to the rears. Would make sense from an assembly point of view.

Might be worth double checking.
Some of the mustang cylinders are backwards from the volvo and some are the same way. You have to go to rock auto and see in the specs whats what. I ended up buying a right hand drive one by accident, cut the nubs off and took the bores apart to see that I had it correct from how volvo had theres.
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Old 05-24-2018, 10:10 AM   #98
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Is the Mustang MC the same bore size for both front and back? The reason I ask is I did the same valve on my 242 when I first did the s60r brake swap (fake edit: 14 years ago. Damn I'm getting old) and I could NEVER get the rear brakes to stop locking up.

After I sold the car it kind of dawned on me, the "rear" bore size might be a lot larger and actually tied to the front brakes and front smaller to the rears. Would make sense from an assembly point of view.

Might be worth double checking.
My notes indicated that they are the same bore sizes front and rear. I will be gutting the rear proportioning valve and relying on the wilwood one in line. I know I am going to have to add some weight to the car for the GTV Class so being able to adjust braking is key.

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Id recommend switching back to the volvo reservoir.

I have heard a number of problems with the mustang cylinders being leaky.

Plus american reservoirs look out of place in euro engine bays

To fit the volvo reservoir, you just need 2 4mm o-ring spacers.

You will also need that reservoir to clear the brace.
Ordered already, waiting for it to arrive. Also I am assuming that any 4mm o rings will work as they will not be in brake fluid, just used as a spacer?

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Another clean, well-laid-out Hackster build. Love it.
Thanks man!!

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Hard to tell from pic (which looks great!) - but engine mounting height + supercharger may cause brace clearance issues as well....but knowing Hackster, thatís already been thought thru.
Huge clearance issues. Brace should be here tomorrow and Ill test fit it. I dont think it will fit at all but its worth a shot, =)

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Yea, we talked about it, he's getting a raw one to play with. I was recommended that probably sectioning the bottom of the main cross bar and capping it would probably be necessary.
Pretty sure that whole bar is going to have to come out, but will know in a few days.

Been working like normal this week so no time to touch anything in the garage, I really need to get some work/life boundaries.

I have been able to order a bunch of parts though. Remote bleeder has shown up, pressure plate bolts are here, ARP Bellhousing bolts arrived. First batch of Ben's suspension parts are here. I am still waiting on a shifter to show up as it needs to go on before the trans can go it. There is not enough room to fish it down through the hole once its installed with the STS mounts as they dont really move much.

I hope to get the engine pulled back out tonight, pull the tranny, get the clutch lined up and installed, remote bleeder, clutch line installed, rework the dipstick tube as it hits the motor mounts and have the motor ready to go back in for good Saturday. I have a fair bit of work to do on the tranny tunnel, all is marked for clearancing so just some time with the porta power and a BFH should be all that is needed now =)

I am really hoping to make some good progress on the car this weekend.

Harness should be here in the next few days so I can start laying that out as well.

Sean
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:14 AM   #99
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Ordered already, waiting for it to arrive. Also I am assuming that any 4mm o rings will work as they will not be in brake fluid, just used as a spacer
Sean

Yes, they should not see any brake fluid as they are just a spacer.
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:31 AM   #100
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Yes, they should not see any brake fluid as they are just a spacer.
That is what I figured, I picked up some 4mm o rings and it seemed to work just fine. New China reservoir with original cap mated to the Mustang master.

In its final resting place, transmission tunnel clearanced for the T56, ACT Clutch, pressure plate and flywheel installed, new hydraulic throwout bearing installed, clutch line hooked up to master cylinder.





Got it sorted out where it should be and got to work on a tranny crossmember. Used the factory camaro trans mount and adapted it to the factory Volvo crossmember.







Turned our pretty nice. I had the nephew down helping me out with the project so I cut him loose with the DA after welding. We shot some good paint on it, same Catalyzed 20% black stuff I shot on the booster. Looks pretty good though for shooting it outside.

Had a bunch of yardwork to do yesterday so didnt get much done.

Started mocking this up....haha. You can see it isnt close to clearing.



Messed around with a few ideas and this is what I came up with. I didnt like the idea of cutting out the tube all together, so I fashioned this little bridge out of some 1/8" plate and some 5/16" round bar. I know its not going to be nearly as strong as the tube that it replaced....





Here is why I am doing it this way.



Everyone said no way is that possible, never going to fit under the hood =)

Harness should be here this week so I can start messing with that. I need to figure out a radiator situation as the engine is not as far back as I had hoped for. So Radiator is going to have to move forward a little bit to fit the heat exhchanger for the intercooler and the dual fan setup.

Good progress this weekend. Hope to keep tinkering with it in the coming weeks.

Sean
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