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240 2 Series RTAB Eyelet Alignment

MDVLN

Kapitän Klugscheißer
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Location
Varies
Hello All,

Swallowing my pride and posting for suggestions as I'm a bit stumped and have exhausted most options that have come to mind. Car in question is a 1993 245.

Trying to get the RR/Passenger Side RTAB installed and having a real heck of a time doing so. The bushing will go in halfway into the secondary eyelet and then bind up and not go any further. No amount of lube or extra "persuasion" will get me any further.

The LR side went in with no issues at all. The eyelets have been cleaned up/de-rusted and supported properly.

Hoping someone can suggest how I can ensure the eyelets on the axle are aligned properly so I can get this darned thing in and wrap up the rear suspension refresh.

Extraneous:
I've got a home made and also factory install/removal tool on hand and have used them both numerous times on other cars, but this one in particular is the most trouble I've had with one in a while. I just knocked out a similar job recently on a BMW E46 so I'd like to at least think I'm somewhat competent, haha.

Thanks for your time.
 
Oh, apologies.

Trying to get the Kaplhenke Spherical RTABs installed. However, I have a set of Lemforder(Lemfoerder?) on hand and those bind in roughly the same area.
 
Got a second pass rat tail file you can clean up the ID with?
 
Well, don't know what I was getting wrong, or what I finally got right, but it's in there.

Much appreciated, gentlemen.
 
Well, don't know what I was getting wrong, or what I finally got right, but it's in there.

Much appreciated, gentlemen.

I've definitely struggled with a RTAB for way too long before it suddenly slipped right in to place. The world may never know. :e-shrug:
 
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JirEwGIT0ak" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Are you installing from the inside out?

:nod:

The TABs are tapered. Press into the eyelets from the diff side towards the wheel side.

Also, if you get one of these 2" conduit couplings from Home Depot and slice it down the middle (so you have 2 half-moons), they are a perfect fit for tapping in between the two eyelets to prevent them from bending during removal/install.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-Rigid-Conduit-Coupling-64020/100205498

Also reference:
http://www-ese.fnal.gov/People/wilcer/volvo_trailing_arm_bushing_tool.htm
 
It's happily installed now, but if I am reading that correctly; Yes - I was going in from the differential housing, out towards the wheel hubs.
 
Mine were rusty, I found the most effective way of removing the old shells was to sawzall the inside (carefully) and then fold it up with an air chisel. I tried pressing them out at first which only worked on one side and resulted in tweaked eyelets on both, which made installing the new Kaplhenke things a huge pain.
 
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