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Fuel/Spark tuning for LH 2.4/EZK with TunerPro!

Hi Stoni

nice curves :-D

I wish I had that air consumption at that relatively low boost pressure.....
or maybe better not since Im sure my gearbox would have been laying scattered all over the highway :wtf:
 
mrjaybeeze said:
And then the seen "load" drops off as a result of maxing out the amm at 5v from there on ?
Click to expand...

it drops off yea. FWIW, on the ms, as the rpms go up, the numbers the maf is outputting don't change higher in the rpm even as the boost is tapering. (but they don't go up either, it hovers around 1010 of a possible 1024 on that adc).
 
linuxman51 said:
do we know if there's a resistor inline on the maf input on the LH? (or does it go through that hybrid chip?) I noticed when I put a resistor on the maf line for ms, it dropped the input voltage ~40%. I'll be putting the resistor back so that I can get some degree of tune-ability out of the top part of the MAF
Click to expand...

that or hack out the sensor and put it in a bigger tube
only problem is that you tend to skew the ignition timing
 
well, with ms, that wouldn't be an issue since you could re-scale the table as needed.

and I imagine you can do that with lh. determining what it would need to be scaled to might be more difficult though.
 
linuxman51 said:
do we know if there's a resistor inline on the maf input on the LH? (or does it go through that hybrid chip?) I noticed when I put a resistor on the maf line for ms, it dropped the input voltage ~40%. I'll be putting the resistor back so that I can get some degree of tune-ability out of the top part of the MAF
Click to expand...

You can use this mod to make the MAF 'adjustable': http://www.stonis-world.net/docs/AMM_mod.pdf
 
mrjaybeeze said:
Hi Stoni

nice curves :-D

I wish I had that air consumption at that relatively low boost pressure.....
or maybe better not since Im sure my gearbox would have been laying scattered all over the highway :wtf:
Click to expand...

Thanks :)

Only thing what you need to save your gearbox is a boost controller which cuts down the boost below 4000rpm ...
 
Is this for the same reason that some chips go stupid pig rich because the MAF maxes out very quickly at a given airflow? I've noticed this when doing some street tuning.
 
DNAsEqUeNcE said:
Is this for the same reason that some chips go stupid pig rich because the MAF maxes out very quickly at a given airflow? I've noticed this when doing some street tuning.
Click to expand...

That's why I recommend the 3" MAF to everyone. With the stock one there is simply not enough headroom.

And really, 3" is probably a bit small. Kenny, I assume that with MS you are running the 016 MAF, right? Any way you could slap an 012 on there and datalog it AND the MAP together? It would be nice to have for comparison. Would only be valid for that turbo/setup, but could make for a good ballpark reference...

Even with the 016 the data would be nice to have.

Also, according to FexEx, my HP 54503A will be here Saturday!!! yessssss! :hyper:

Thanks to the t-bricker who hooked me up with the excellent deal! ($380 for a scope that retailed at $6,000... and still sells for like $4,000 refurb...)

wheeeeeee!
 
yeah I have one of garry's 012's. I'll look into that tomorrow, but it's really only going to be good for an approximation, one can back-calculate voltage and have a little bit of an idea of what's going on, but I'm not really too keen on this maf setup right now. it just... doesn't act right at all (picture scaling the injectors down to where the car idles at 10:1 afrs, and then stepping off in it and watching it roll full lean at 5psi)
 
hahahaha that same pdf is getting kicked around all over the place. I think I'm just going to hang this one up, it's not intuitive, and even when it does 'work' it doesn't actually work. Something is broken, and in usual MS fashion, the people that wrote the software are too busy adding new bugs to the firmware to stop and document the big changes in that come with new stable versions.
 
linuxman51 said:
hahahaha that same pdf is getting kicked around all over the place. I think I'm just going to hang this one up, it's not intuitive, and even when it does 'work' it doesn't actually work. Something is broken, and in usual MS fashion, the people that wrote the software are too busy adding new bugs to the firmware to stop and document the big changes in that come with new stable versions.
Click to expand...

sounds like youll need to replace the key actuator
 
Hi all

Anyone knows an easy way to test the transparent blue "el cheapo" KKL cable ?
Mine seems to be broken in some way
The computer recognizes it when plugging it in (FTDI chip working) but I can not communicate over the K-line anymore

YS
Jaybee
 
mrjaybeeze said:
Hi all

Anyone knows an easy way to test the transparent blue "el cheapo" KKL cable ?
Mine seems to be broken in some way
The computer recognizes it when plugging it in (FTDI chip working) but I can not communicate over the K-line anymore

YS
Jaybee
Click to expand...

easiest way is with a 12v supply, multimeter (analog preferably) and a terminal emulator (hyperterminal or TuTTY)

1. attach +12v and ground to appropriate pins; blue LED should light up
2. connect multimeter positive lead to K-line on cable, negative to 12v ground
3. set multimeter for 12-ish volts
4. open terminal program, select COM port of KKL cable
5. set baud rate to something low (like 1200 or even 300)
6. start typing gibberish

with every character typed, there should be a deflection of the needle on the multimeter. I can't remember if K-like is high-to-low or vice versa so you may get a drop in volts or a spike. either way, if the needle moves you should be good. holding down a key so it repeats may give a more visible indication.
 
beepee said:
easiest way is with a 12v supply, multimeter (analog preferably) and a terminal emulator (hyperterminal or TuTTY)

1. attach +12v and ground to appropriate pins; blue LED should light up
2. connect multimeter positive lead to K-line on cable, negative to 12v ground
3. set multimeter for 12-ish volts
4. open terminal program, select COM port of KKL cable
5. set baud rate to something low (like 1200 or even 300)
6. start typing gibberish

with every character typed, there should be a deflection of the needle on the multimeter. I can't remember if K-like is high-to-low or vice versa so you may get a drop in volts or a spike. either way, if the needle moves you should be good. holding down a key so it repeats may give a more visible indication.
Click to expand...

Do I need a resistor or something to make a small current flow through the adapter to make the switching to ground work ?
 
hm. the 012 I got from garry reads 4.75 volts at the top of 2nd, 170kpa (so..10.29psi, tapers a bit up top). hrm. better than the 016 though, by a quarter of a volt.
 
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