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Fuel/Spark tuning for LH 2.4/EZK with TunerPro!

TheHappySwede said:
Hi there,

I'm currently rebuilding my 1990 740T (B230ft) and as things tend to do, it has become a lot more involved than expected. One of which is the fact that the turbo appears to be too far gone to be rebuild-able. As you may know, the TD04-13C turbos are hard to source and are expensive. I remember a few years ago seeing an ECU upgrade for turbo red-blocks on IPD's website and was looking for it as I've now come across your posts here on turbobricks. If possible, I'd like to modestly upgrade my turbo but know that I may not be able to be successful with my stock LH 2.4 system. I am quite familiar with tuning standalone ecus as I've been playing with my turbo charged Miata for many years. My Volvo is my daily driver, so I don't want it to be too crazy but am very interested in what you have to offer. I just got my stock injectors flow-matched so hopefully I can stay with them. Your post has blown-up to 80+ pages now so it isn't feasible to sift through it all to figure out if you can for sure help me or not. Please let me know your opinion as to where to go from here.

Thank you SO much!
Click to expand...

What planet are you from where a 13c is expensive or hard to source? :-P

The "modest" upgraded turbo is a 15g typically from a FWD car. You'll be fine with stock lh2.4 & it's standard injectors until you start turning the boost way up or you have a special need for aftermarket EMS. Also if it's your daily stay with lh2.4 but if you already have experience with a standalone, you do you :)
 
esmth said:
What planet are you from where a 13c is expensive or hard to source? :-P

The "modest" upgraded turbo is a 15g typically from a FWD car. You'll be fine with stock lh2.4 & it's standard injectors until you start turning the boost way up or you have a special need for aftermarket EMS. Also if it's your daily stay with lh2.4 but if you already have experience with a standalone, you do you :)
Click to expand...

Haha, the 13Cs are everywhere until you need one (in Idaho). lol
Is the 15G the one in the 850s? If so, I thought those took quite a bit of modifying (manifold, downpipe etc.) to set up.
I know, I'm clueless, I wasn't going to touch my daily till the my oil control ring seized:(
 
TheHappySwede said:
Haha, the 13Cs are everywhere until you need one (in Idaho). lol
Is the 15G the one in the 850s? If so, I thought those took quite a bit of modifying (manifold, downpipe etc.) to set up.
I know, I'm clueless, I wasn't going to touch my daily till the my oil control ring seized:(
Click to expand...

I've never done the 15g swap so i don't have answers for you. You should make a new thread (or do a search) in the performance section and you'll definitely get feedback as it's a common swap. And this is pretty off topic for this thread
 
Questions regarding LH2.4 and EZK

I have some questions regarding my LH 2.4 and EZK system. :-P

I have been going around Sweden during my vacation with a caravan and my maps had to be changed since they were made without caravan and the load did not came to such high values without the heavy load. But after mapping and driving with a caravan for a couple of weeks the cars torque has increased could that be to that the EZK do some self adjustments since I am running mostly between 1500-2500rpm with 128 in load.
Without load the car is not jerking around 1000rpm on 5th gear anymore and accelerates much greater 1000-3000rpm.
I am pretty sure it has nothing to do with my mapping and my impression is that the system has remapped itself.

My setup is:
Tunerpro mapped LH2.4 and EZK on the road...
Green giants and a Walbro gss 342 and appr. 0,8 Bar of boost.

At the same time I ve been adjusting more parameters than in the main fuel map.
Such as acc.parameters and noticed they do no good changing if I only change them only.
But now I do get acceleration fuel enrichment as low as 1900rpm and still keep the lambda regulation at 1 when coasting and it works well when the guys at the yearly M.O.T revvs to 2500rpm.

Another concern seems that when changing in the EZK ignition map I do get the impression that the system reacts to lowered ignition values fairly quick but not increased values unless you download a completely new map. And I do not get the instantanious response from the system as I do get with an aftermarket system.
It gives me the feeling that the system checks my upgraded table gradually in a slow an safe manner something similar to when drivning with a caravan for many miles.
I have tried to change parameters in many differant areas of the BIN with no notable reaction from the system except in the main ignition map.

Also I have heard rumours regarding the GOLDen and BLACK EZK boxes regarding that an unchipped BLACK outperfomes an chipped GOLDen box...
Have someone compared a rebuilt unchipped/chipped/mapped BLACK box to a chipped/mapped GOLDen box ?
 
Brickinthewall said:
Another concern seems that when changing in the EZK ignition map I do get the impression that the system reacts to lowered ignition values fairly quick but not increased values unless you download a completely new map. And I do not get the instantanious response from the system as I do get with an aftermarket system.
It gives me the feeling that the system checks my upgraded table gradually in a slow an safe manner something similar to when drivning with a caravan for many miles.
I have tried to change parameters in many differant areas of the BIN with no notable reaction from the system except in the main ignition map.
Click to expand...

from personal experience when I pull the ezk or the ecu from the connector for a little bit, it makes the car immediately use the new values. otherwise it 'remembers' from it's last learned values. It won't do this with an ostrich

Brickinthewall said:
Also I have heard rumours regarding the GOLDen and BLACK EZK boxes regarding that an unchipped BLACK outperfomes an chipped GOLDen box...
Have someone compared a rebuilt unchipped/chipped/mapped BLACK box to a chipped/mapped GOLDen box ?
Click to expand...
Black or gold boxes will perform the exact same with the same software. I have both a gold 207 and black 146 ezk that i swap between when playing with the software. Both have the same software usually when I test and they perform the same it seems. The gold has hardware support for EGR while the black doesn't
 
the ostrich is just an emulator, functionally identical to swapping chips. you should reset(unplug/replug) whichever ecu you're tuning every time you burn a change to ensure newest stuff is used.

another way to force it to use the table is to turn off o2 feedback on the lh box, but then you're up against the checksum changes, so you still need to reset it.
 
esmth said:
from personal experience when I pull the ezk or the ecu from the connector for a little bit, it makes the car immediately use the new values. otherwise it 'remembers' from it's last learned values. It won't do this with an ostrich


Hi sorry for me not understanding and if I missunderstand your reply.

You mean that with the ostrich it will not react to changes in the parametersettings.
Otherwise it will work if you write them down to a chip and mount it in the EZK and do a BoBo.
Battery on Battery off(BoBo)

Or do you mean that with the ostrich it will instantly take all new parametersettings after you have written them down and saved them in the EZK. In that case I get the impression that the new settings go down sometimes but not always.

And I get the feeling it is not reacting to parameter changes in the EZK as an aftermarket system. It is like the acc. param settings in the LH 2.4 box you will not get them activated by only one param adjustment.
Click to expand...
 
linuxman51 said:
the ostrich is just an emulator, functionally identical to swapping chips. you should reset(unplug/replug) whichever ecu you're tuning every time you burn a change to ensure newest stuff is used.

another way to force it to use the table is to turn off o2 feedback on the lh box, but then you're up against the checksum changes, so you still need to reset it.
Click to expand...

Hmm
Is there a walkaround...
When you have been using full throttle you want to cool the hardware(engine)down before perfoming a BoBo. This is time consuming...
I ll think I understand.

Thanks for the post
 
cool it down before you write the change. Its not likely to cut off, but if it trips the cel for lh failure (i.e. if it re-checks the checksum, which it is want to do) it will start running very poorly and may stall out anyway. I'm not sure if you can disable the checksum checks or not
 
So are you saying if changes are made, the bin saved so checksum is corrected, then uploaded to ostrich it still won't be happy with the checksum? I do most of my changes live on the dyno using this method and I've not had a problem yet, even when uploading without saving first at times.
 
One thing that caught my eye a few posts back, was about EZK 'learning'. Everything I've read and my own personal experience, EZK has no long-term memory, only short term, so no, that wouldn't play into the situation.
 
Anyone have a 169 EZK bin file? I'd like to compare the 146 with the 169. My 169 is not chip-able :grrr:
 
gsellstr said:
One thing that caught my eye a few posts back, was about EZK 'learning'. Everything I've read and my own personal experience, EZK has no long-term memory, only short term, so no, that wouldn't play into the situation.
Click to expand...



Correct :-) The EZK doesen't have a proper short term learning either, all it does is listen to the knock sensor and drop the ignition timing for the knocking cylinder by appx 3 degrees for every knock on that cylinder.The lowering of the ignition done by knock sensor is universal over the whole map in practical terms but confined to the actual cylinder knocking. After a set amount of revolutions it jacks the timing slightly upwards and so on until it either reach the ignition timing in the matrix or encounter knock again, which will restart the lowering again. Since the engines where mapped on very high octane fuel to find the maximum possible/best ignition matrix it is typical that it lies floating on the knock sensor and never reach the ignition timing in the main matrix.


YS
Jaybee
 
169 here it is. Far as I remember it's the same as 146 bin. WinOLS lets you compare bins and shows you differences with changes in bits color..

Simon
 

Attachments

  • 169 lh2.4 EZK.zip
    5.6 KB · Views: 17
Hi all and a merry Christmas & happy new year.

The team behind Jetronic.info have put in a lot of effort lately and come up with two new XDF's covering most Binaries and the most frequently used functions when "tuning" or recalibrating your EZK.

Comments or feedback are always welcome.
 

Attachments

  • EZK 219_207_175_147 Basic A.zip
    15.5 KB · Views: 47
  • EZK 208_177_169_146_140 Basic B.zip
    15.4 KB · Views: 35
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