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Old 09-18-2018, 08:29 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
Didn't say they won't go forever, but that doesn't mean they wear as well as a b21. Idc how many redblocks you've neglected and blown up. Makes no difference to me.

Shut up
But you say they are stout and your example is longevity and rods

Nothing was said about me blowing them up
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:38 PM   #52
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But you say they are stout and your example is longevity and rods

Nothing was said about me blowing them up
yes they are stout. Search any old thread on here. It takes quite a bit to kill them so whichever ones you've seen must have been neglected pretty bad. Rods help with being stout, huge big end, huuuge crank, good materials in block. What is so difficult to understand, is everything I've read on this forum a lie?
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:59 PM   #53
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B21F

With a +T longevity.. show me 2 builds


What I claimed is that they weren’t good for a plus T... right or wrong I really don’t know.

The way they came from Sweden and longevity I know about. So gape that TB search engine and show me what you found inside
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:11 PM   #54
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B21F

With a +T longevity.. show me 2 builds


What I claimed is that they werenít good for a plus T... right or wrong I really donít know.

The way they came from Sweden and longevity I know about. So gape that TB search engine and show me what you found inside
why tf would a +t not work in the long term?? There is nothing inherently wrong with the NA block or internals. If anything they make a better DD torquey motor. Have fun with a 7.5:1 CR. Kinda sucks when not in boost.
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:13 PM   #55
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why tf would a +t not work in the long term?? There is nothing inherently wrong with the NA block or internals. If anything they make a better DD torquey motor. Have fun with a 7.5:1 CR. Kinda sucks when not in boost.
Less typing more gapeing TB
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:14 PM   #56
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Less typing more gapeing TB
Don't need to gape. Use your head.
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:16 PM   #57
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Don't need to gape. Use your head.
Ok just one build then
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:16 PM   #58
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Ok just one build then
No building necessary, just more bewst.
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:35 PM   #59
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Oh, lets run this back. It sounds like OP wants simple bolt-ons which are easily sourced and add mid-range grunt; making his free NA, Auto 740 more fun to drive. Right now something as involved as a +T is out of the question.

OP the short answer is there is hardly any "off the shelf" support for any of these cars, turbo or NA. If a +T is out, I assume swapping in a JV sourced longblock is not going to happen.

If you want easy bolt ons, you have what you've found... basically sourcing a turbo exhaust and retrofitting it to your NA for "more flow" and the VX cam. The exhaust really won't do much, but make it a bit louder (I know because I did this to my old NA940) and the VX cam won't do a whole lot, maybe a handful of hp at specific spot on the rev range. You'll lose some low rev power, so you'll have to couple that VX with an adjustable cam gear (Yoshifab, STS Machinine and IPD all offer variations). K&N filter won't do much, especially on an NA... so really yeah that's about it.

Honestly, the biggest bang for your buck when it comes to upping enjoyment would be from suspension mods. Some sport springs, sway bars, chassis bracing and if you want fancier shocks (bilstein or koni)... Be aware though... the older you are and the further you go down that road the less you'll like DDing the car. I recommend fresh gas pressurized shocks/struts, sways and lower chassis braces for a nice handling DD, sport/lowering springs if you want to hunker it down a bit.

That's my no BS 2 cents.


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Originally Posted by Vincent Gagnon View Post
What about gearing?

it's the secret of happiness duuuuuuuuude.
This thread will be closed/cleaned up soon I'm sure, but these should be the main take aways for the questions asked.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:02 PM   #60
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@Vincent Gagnon:
Thanks for the tip. Would like to know more of what you're thinking here
Well, if you don't want to weld/cut/custom driveshaft etc. for the moment, you might want to consider simply swapping a manual transmission and figure out what final drive you have.

The shortest they made is 4.10.

This is simple and (I don't know where you are) but I'm pretty sure with a little bit of patience, looking in pick and pulls, craigslist and posting here in wanted, you could get what you need for cheap.

I had a 16v NA manual 4.10 740 and it would accelerate ok and was nice on the highway.

That is a reasonable fist step.

Now, if you want to go full retard, we can talk.

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Originally Posted by soclosenotnear View Post
This thread will be closed/cleaned up soon I'm sure, but these should be the main take aways for the questions asked.
Yeah, I have the same feeling.

That's what happens when anybody go against the doxa around here : put a turbo on a 300 000 000 000 000 miles engine, everything will be fine, you just need a good tune.

I don't get it.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:05 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
Yes also has a lot to do with crank steered vs piston steered rods. Again, just what I've read on here many many times.

Oh here's something else I read on here from Roy.

I am not a metallurgical engineer, I am just regurgitating what I've read on here.







Here's the link you asked for.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=343562
I didn't ask for you to regurgitate other guys chatting about what other guys chatted about what they read in a fan-zine......You said "they change the material" which is why we few adults here are so dismayed at the words coming out of your fingertips..

Nor did the poor newbie here ask for misinformation about theory of what you think you read.

If you had said
Quote:
"I read once, somewhere some gossiping guys chattering about other guys chatting about what other guys chatted about what they read in a fan-zine once, they seem to remember...." that the block casting material may have changed---but nobody ever bothered to do an assay so its just garage-talk over beer"
then that would have been a good comment..


You see, you do not have the experience or raw intelligence or the judgement to differentiate between amateurs kibitzing and just gossiping over memories, and hard facts,,and adults talking.

That is why virtually every adult here tells you to shut up, don't talk, and if you cannot do that to go away and hang with your peers where you can impress them and not always derail threads with mindless chatter.

My mid year "first generation B230 has only god knows what but 4 years ago it as well over 300,000 miles...EXTREMELY mild state of tune, decent service by in all likelihood nerdy type owners and extreme light use has a major part in that story..

And that is nothing exceptional in any fuel injected car with similar low output, service and use.
Hell carbuetted V4s routinely made 200,000 miles when only occasionally given a little oil 40 years ago.. Your frame of reference is too limited...
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:17 PM   #62
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Okay John, Roy was wrong. Why don’t you PM him about it
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:24 PM   #63
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Aren’t all 16v 4.10?
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:25 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Jack View Post
Aren’t all 16v 4.10?
16v auto are, I just swapped a manual tranny I had layin' around, it was allright.

If you scroll down, there is a chart here:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Driveline.html

You go from

AW72 :
1: 2.83
2: 1.49
3: 1.00
4: 0.73

to

M47:
1: 4.03
2: 2.16
3: 1.37
4: 1.00
5: 0.80 (or 0.82)

Last edited by Vincent Gagnon; 09-18-2018 at 10:32 PM..
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:12 PM   #65
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Are we there yet daddy?
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 09-18-2018, 11:32 PM   #66
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Okay John, Roy was wrong. Why donít you PM him about it
Again your immaturity, and unbelievable sheer stupidity makes you unable to even begin to adress the issues... You were asked questions..They were posed to help you down a pathway, logically leading any normal adult to a inevitable junction..
And you pick some 100% unimportant thing and make a wise ass answer and ignore a chance to learn--which you so screamigly need because you're such a ignorant illiterate ****, that it is painful to know you're over 11 years old...

Again, what sort of lack of upbringing to you have? Tell us you aren't wasting money and people's time going to "college"...
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:35 PM   #67
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Arenít all 16v 4.10?
What of it? Its the combination of gear and axle that is important...

Do the math..gear x axle.

Which do you think has lower revs in 5th at X MPH?
3,7 gear and 0,8?
Or 4.63 and 0,63?
Quick! No calculator just answer.

Which do you think accelerates better?
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:54 PM   #68
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such a great thread guys, A+.
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Old 09-19-2018, 12:56 AM   #69
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OP As with many engines. The first about 25hp or so is fairly easy and after that you get diminishing returns for effort but still can get more power.

I run my 93 wagon with just some bolt on improvements and it keeps up with traffic just fine. Is it fast? No, but it's fine for what I need it for and is improved over what Volvo sent us. My car is a five speed though. A manual swap would improve the driving experience and would have a good rear axle for acceleration. So I would suggest consider a manual swap with some bolt on improvements on the engine and that will give you what you are looking for.
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Old 09-19-2018, 09:16 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by John V, outside agitator View Post
Again your immaturity, and unbelievable sheer stupidity makes you unable to even begin to adress the issues... You were asked questions..They were posed to help you down a pathway, logically leading any normal adult to a inevitable junction..
And you pick some 100% unimportant thing and make a wise ass answer and ignore a chance to learn--which you so screamigly need because you're such a ignorant illiterate ****, that it is painful to know you're over 11 years old...

Again, what sort of lack of upbringing to you have? Tell us you aren't wasting money and people's time going to "college"...
Did you PM him yet
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Old 09-19-2018, 10:38 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by Vincent Gagnon View Post
Well, if you don't want to weld/cut/custom driveshaft etc. for the moment, you might want to consider simply swapping a manual transmission and figure out what final drive you have.

The shortest they made is 4.10.

This is simple and (I don't know where you are) but I'm pretty sure with a little bit of patience, looking in pick and pulls, craigslist and posting here in wanted, you could get what you need for cheap.

I had a 16v NA manual 4.10 740 and it would accelerate ok and was nice on the highway.

That is a reasonable fist step.

Now, if you want to go full retard, we can talk.



Yeah, I have the same feeling.

That's what happens when anybody go against the doxa around here : put a turbo on a 300 000 000 000 000 miles engine, everything will be fine, you just need a good tune.

I don't get it.
A real rally racer would have used a 4.3x or 4.5x out of a 140.
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Any thread about cut springs, & or +T on a college students budget shall be sent to OT, flogged for 24 hours, participants in said thread shall point the OP in the correct thread link while simultaneously shaming them
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Old 09-19-2018, 11:06 AM   #72
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A real rally racer would have used a 4.3x or 4.5x out of a 140.
I have a 4.56 out of a Toyota on my DD, is that ok?
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Old 09-19-2018, 11:15 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by 240240 View Post
A real rally racer would have used 1030 4.88s from Randys Ring and Pinion
Fixed.

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Originally Posted by Vincent Gagnon View Post
I have a 4.56 out of a Toyota on my DD, is that ok?


Even better.
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Old 09-20-2018, 03:44 AM   #74
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Hello OP, hope you are doing well.

Don't let a few loud'n'proud posters bull hook your thread.

A 740 is a great car, completely different stylistically to the thoroughbred 240, but a nice faux american 80s style.
Year and model depending only about 100lb heavier than a 240, less if you find the hidden engine bay weights and remove them.

On the topic of NA power, it is a matter of breath ability.
16v head,
Port the intake as best as possible,
IPD does have an aftermarket cam option for a few extra ponies,
Can try uping the compression ratio,
A list of other tweaks.

If you are in it for the numbers, this isn't the route, especially bang for buck.
Build the car you want to drive.
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Old 09-20-2018, 10:27 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by Vincent Gagnon View Post
I have a 4.56 out of a Toyota on my DD, is that ok?
Only if your compression is 13:1
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