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Lightweight Flywheels,DS, and other rotating parts

jmc0369

Banned
Joined
Jan 1, 2017
Location
San Diego
What are T-brickers experiences with light weight drive line and rotating assembly parts.
List what parts you have and how they impacted your driving experiences such as hill climbs, parking lot maneuvers, cruising etc.

I had a lightweight flywheel lost in the mail and US Postal denied my claim. Pondering the value in purchasing another. My car is slated for t5 swap and proper turbo motor build. Wondering if those lightweight aluminum driveshafts and a lightened flywheel with light weight forged internals will have the car unpleasant to drive as a daily and on road trips.
 
I have JohnVs flywheel. It's not light, but it's DEFINITELY lightER. Plus Billet.

I also have a ford racing 3.5 inch aluminum DS. I don't recommend that diameter. Though... I feel like I've got it working ok now... I think 3 inch would just be wiser.

My car is DD. No issues with starts or parking or any of that. Other than you know... the general type of old cars don't work sort of stuff.
 
Should also be noted that I got flamed when I said in some older thread that getting FW lightened on mostly stock 240's made marginal difference (I was implying you could probably get better gains with less effort and monies elsewhere) but a bunch of people came out of the woodwork saying this or that lightening was one of the best mods they ever did.

I won't agree or disagree. It's just hard for me to judge since I went from M47 NA to NA auto to +T auto to +T T5. I don't think my car has any more willingness to rev to higher RPM than the ole M47 pile though. But... wth do I know? Logically less weight is moar gooder.
 
I have a V-Performance Aluminum flyhweel on the road course car. Not a DD, race car with a welded diff so of course it sucks at slow speeds.

Revs a hell of a lot quicker than every other manual trans redblock car I have ever drove.
 
My flat flywheel (shaved 7 lbs) was a great compliment to the internal balancing done to pistons, rods and crank.

Engine was definitely happy to rev.

However, it was at times a bear in traffic. Especially after beefing up the clutch.

If you are going to spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic, I say spin balance the crank to the flywheel and balancer. Leave the weight on the flywheel and get the opinions of others that have used lightweight driveshafts (I never have - but have twisted a few factory shafts in half - so...)
 
my experience has been that a light flywheel and a cam go miles to change the character of these engines. Something around ~15lbs seems to be sweet.
 
I have a T5 transmission lightened flat flywheel and aluminum single piece driveshaft can't remember what diameter. 2.5 or 3in. Open stock 3.73 diff. Daily driven. It is certainly has more pep than stock. Monies could be more well spent elsewhere but for me it was good opportunities to take advantage of. No difficulties driving around. Close enough to the stock I remember. Although I do stall it about once every 6 months.
 
My flat flywheel (shaved 7 lbs) was a great compliment to the internal balancing done to pistons, rods and crank.

Engine was definitely happy to rev.

However, it was at times a bear in traffic. Especially after beefing up the clutch.

If you are going to spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic, I say spin balance the crank to the flywheel and balancer. Leave the weight on the flywheel and get the opinions of others that have used lightweight driveshafts (I never have - but have twisted a few factory shafts in half - so...)

+1 for not going too light on the flywheel with a grippy clutch. So long as you can get moving like you mean it and not slip it hard, mine is great. As soon as you get in stop and go, it's terrible.
 
I have a stock b23ft using 15 lbs flywheel with a full face centerforce clutch. For me it was easy around town to drive. This is with a m47 stock two piece driveline.
 
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