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Old 02-05-2018, 01:30 PM   #1
oifish
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Default M46 P-Type Overdrive Rebuild...tips tricks?

The time has come to rebuild my overdrive. Last year I had issues with it randomly disengaging, which turned out to be faulty wiring. I also replaced the relay for good measure. Now after being in overdrive for ~5-10 min it kicks out and drops to 4th gear. The "5th Gear" light stays lit. If I disengage the OD then re-engage, it will stay in 5th for about 10 seconds before popping out again.

If I'm in 4th gear, I always get the OD to engage and hear the relay click, so the 4th gear switch is working correctly. OD does not engage when in any other gear.

I checked the fluid level, which was ~1/2qt low, and topped it off. But the problem still persists. I'm assuming OD is unable to maintain pressure and needs new o-rings and seals.


The unit needs new gaskets anyways to stop the leaks, so I figure while it's out I might as well service the entire thing. I was looking at getting this kit: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7348...drive-mini-kit

Is there any information I should know before tearing into this thing? Thanks!
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:40 PM   #2
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These could he helpful links:

http://www.swedishbricks.net/faq/transod.html#jumping

and

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/OverdriveRebuild.html
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:48 PM   #3
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The kit doesn't come with the piston seals for P type OD's, so you'll need to buy them separately.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7349...ve-piston-seal
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
The kit doesn't come with the piston seals for P type OD's, so you'll need to buy them separately.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7349...ve-piston-seal
Yea, saw that. Looks like I need 2 of them.
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:57 PM   #5
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Also, if you have the old style pistons with the thin o-ring and Teflon backer, you'll need to update the pistons. FYI, the updated pistons come with the o-ring.

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Old 02-05-2018, 03:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Also, if you have the old style pistons with the thin o-ring and Teflon backer, you'll need to update the pistons. FYI, the updated pistons come with the o-ring.
good to know. I'll get the thing apart first before ordering anything. Any chance you have a part# or know where I could get these if needed?
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Old 02-05-2018, 03:18 PM   #7
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I've got them in stock or you can order them from VP.

http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...&artno=6814454
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Old 02-05-2018, 04:41 PM   #8
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Right on, I'll let you know what it looks like once I'm inside.
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Old 02-05-2018, 05:51 PM   #9
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Just to clarify, in hiperfauto's photo-- the blue ones are the style that needs to be replaced with the simpler (thicker) o-rings and matching pistons.
Don't overtorque the piston holdown plates!

Handle carefully the new round thin paper gasket between the OD and tranny. If it seems a bit too small, don't force it-- you'll break it. Instead, soak it in a pan of water for several hours.

And: Most Important Preparatory Step (you'll regret it if you don't) is to kill the engine by dumping the clutch while in reverse, to loosen the deathgrip on the OD shaft. Otherwise, good luck separating the OD unit from the tranny.
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Old 02-06-2018, 11:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
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And: Most Important Preparatory Step (you'll regret it if you don't) is to kill the engine by dumping the clutch while in reverse, to loosen the deathgrip on the OD shaft. Otherwise, good luck separating the OD unit from the tranny.
I got overzealous and already removed the driveshaft with the car up on jack stands. Think it'll still kill the engine w/o being connected to the rear end?
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Old 02-06-2018, 04:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I got overzealous and already removed the driveshaft with the car up on jack stands. Think it'll still kill the engine w/o being connected to the rear end?
Not likely.
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Old 02-06-2018, 05:46 PM   #12
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meh, takes 10 min to bolt it back up. I'll do that tonight. Sounds like a real b**** to separate the trans and OD w/o doing that.
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Old 02-06-2018, 06:05 PM   #13
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Yup.
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Old 02-08-2018, 09:39 PM   #14
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Did an M41/J type rebuilt a few years ago. The thing was shipped here from Kansas and of course was stuck together. After some Google searching I found the unit can be pressured up with a hand operated hydraulic pump, the solenoid "clicked" and the thing will just fall off.
At the risk of loosing my man card I'll admit to not owning a hand operated hydraulic pump.
However I do have a grease gun or two.
On my J type a 3/8s bolt fit the pressure port so I just drilled a short bolt, tapped it and put a Zerk in it, along with the copper washer off the OEM plug.
First attempt with the G gun filled with straight 30W didn't work, not enough pressure I guess.
Second attempt I pumped grease in it whilst "clicking" the solenoid on a battery did it. There was a loud enough click or bang that I could hear it and the OD unit slid right off.
Only down side to the grease method is cleaning all the dammed grease out of all the little passages. But you gotta clean the dammed thing anyway.
Grease might actually work better if the unit has bad Orings however that was my first and last time redoing one of these things so I can't say for sure.
It's still working!
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:02 PM   #15
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I've got the transmission out (I plan on doing the clutch and RMS as well). Now I'm trying to remove the OD solenoid. It looks like people have ground down a 25mm (1") open end wrench or crowfoot to fit in the small gap. I'd rather buy something thinner than ground down a thicker tool. Does anyone know of a thin 25mm wrench that will fit in that gap? I've found some super flimsy ones on amazon, but everything else looks to bee too thick.

I saw this: https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-8...JDK3NMQK68GHPA

But using an adjustable wrench to loosen a tight nut/bolt usually doesn't end well...
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:41 PM   #16
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For disposable tools I go to Harbor Freight. (AKA Horrible Fright, and others...) Get the appropriate wrench (1") and slowly grind it to size. Don't heat it up too much while grinding, and don't be tempted to cool it off in a water bath...
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:54 PM   #17
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This is what I use. It's a Bonney 1" thin service wrench, part #1232.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-BONNEY...UAAOSwVtZZ~4xQ
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Old 03-13-2018, 04:22 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
This is what I use. It's a Bonney 1" thin service wrench, part #1232.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-BONNEY...UAAOSwVtZZ~4xQ
sweet thanks!
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:22 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benski View Post
For disposable tools I go to Harbor Freight. (AKA Horrible Fright, and others...) Get the appropriate wrench (1") and slowly grind it to size. Don't heat it up too much while grinding, and don't be tempted to cool it off in a water bath...
That's what I did. No Hazard Fraught store in town but we got the Cheap Tool Store over by Wally World. Got a set of combination wrenches from about 3/8 to 1 1/4 for 20 ish bucks. Then spent the afternoon slowly grinding the 1" to fit.
Obviously buying the proper tool is better but delivery takes time and with any luck I'll never rebuild an overdrive unit again.

Here's the link for Hazard Fraught. https://imgur.com/gallery/JcG3B
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Old 03-20-2018, 10:24 AM   #20
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http://www.odspares.com/

If hipfer can't help you out, these guys can.

Last I talked to them, they wanted ~500 usd to fully reman one of our OD units.

They also have a truly impressive backstock of spare parts.
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Old 03-20-2018, 11:10 AM   #21
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That tool worked great, popped the solenoid out without issue. I found this guide for disassembling the OD unit which has been super helpful: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/techn.../JOD1/JOD1.htm
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Old 03-20-2018, 02:56 PM   #22
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Did you shake it before disassembling it?
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Old 03-20-2018, 03:40 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Did you shake it before disassembling it?
??
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Old 03-21-2018, 01:36 AM   #24
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Shake the solenoid as if you were shaking a spraypaint rattle can. If it rattles freely, that is a good indication that the internals are OK.
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:26 AM   #25
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Quote:
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Shake the solenoid as if you were shaking a spraypaint rattle can. If it rattles freely, that is a good indication that the internals are OK.
Hmm, I'll give it a shake tonight. The whole OD unit leaked like a sieve anyways, so new seals and o-rings can't hurt. The solenoid would always engage without a problem, but then it would drop out of overdrive once warmed up. I definitely plan to bench test the solenoid before making any assumptions.

It looks like the piston o-rings are the black rubber type, so I'm glad I won't need to upgrade the pistons.
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