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Old 03-28-2018, 07:27 PM   #26
Bobbyz
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Originally Posted by oifish View Post
That tool worked great, popped the solenoid out without issue. I found this guide for disassembling the OD unit which has been super helpful: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/techn.../JOD1/JOD1.htm
That's the site I used during the rebuild of my J type, had a couple of manuals too but the site gives real tips.
Used another site for the M41 but it's a relatively straight forward transmission rebuild.
A wooden dowel sanded down and cut to length is handy for holding the lay shaft bearings in place during reassembly.
Remember that lay shaft, shaft is bigger on one end. I forget which now but it has to go in and out the right way! A bigger hammer is not your friend here.
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Old 03-28-2018, 07:28 PM   #27
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hiper, what tool do you use to remove the plugs to access the valves? I have a crappy adjustable spanner wrench, but I can't get enough torque to turn it.

oh and the solenoid rattles when I shake it fyi
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Old 03-28-2018, 08:03 PM   #28
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I have one of the tools IPD used to sell. It's a short piece of 1" hex steel with 2 pins on one end.

I also just got one of the OE Volvo tools last week. I haven't even had a chance to use it yet.

As for the lay shaft, the thicker end goes in the rear of the trans, so always tap the shaft out from the front.
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Old 03-29-2018, 11:59 AM   #29
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One of the guys on my lemons team has a couple different types of pin spanner wrenches. If none of them work, I'll try my hand at fabing something up
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Old 03-29-2018, 12:07 PM   #30
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 04-05-2018, 11:58 AM   #31
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My homemade tool (3 foot length of 1" square tube steel with 2 bolts about 15mm apart at the end) worked great for the 2 larger plugs, but the chincy bolts started to yield when removing the smaller center plug. A little tappa tap tap with a punch was enough to break it free.
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Old 04-25-2018, 02:20 PM   #32
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I came across this fun surprise after removing the pressure plate. I guess the prior owner sheared off one of the flywheel bolts. The broken end came out easy enough though, just used a punch and hammer to back it out. The rear main seal looks ok but I'm going to go ahead and replace it anyway.
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Old 04-25-2018, 05:55 PM   #33
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So the PO busted off the head of the bolt but left the rest of the bolt in there, that you were easily able to easily back out? Unbelievable! Bet they used a zip gun to run them in.
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Old 04-26-2018, 08:55 AM   #34
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So the PO busted off the head of the bolt but left the rest of the bolt in there, that you were easily able to easily back out? Unbelievable! Bet they used a zip gun to run them in.
Yea, I was super relieved that it backed out so easily. He also stripped one of the hex screws for the pressure plate. Vice grips popped that loose.
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Old 04-27-2018, 01:03 PM   #35
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The kit doesn't come with the piston seals for P type OD's, so you'll need to buy them separately.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7349...ve-piston-seal
I discovered the kit also doesn't include the gasket for the high pressure filter (#6814456) which got ripped up trying to remove it. Tasca has them for cheap so I added one to the order of new pressure plate and flywheel bolts. Solenoid o-rings were not included either, so I'm the owner of 100 -007, -010, and-014 Buna-N o-rings. If any else needs a couple to refresh their OD solenoid let me know.
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Old 05-05-2018, 10:33 PM   #36
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Is there any particular alignment of the holes for the dashpot sleeve and reduction valve during re-assembly? Part #23 and #18. There are holes in each and a hole in the cylinder wall. I didn't see any mention in the ipd guide or the buckeyetriumph OD site.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:43 PM   #37
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I don't remember having to align them upon assembly.

I rebuilt my m46 OD once, turns out the pressure spring broke in half, causing it not to build pressure after it warmed up. Replaced the spring and it was good to go.

I did pull off the OD while leaving the trans in the car. Was able to flush the whole thing out and inspect it all. For anyone who needs to take the 3 plugs out of the bottom, i used an adjustable wrench and two drill bits. It worked perfectly.

It may seem intimidating at first but all the serviceable components are relatively easy to get to, it just sucks trying to find replacement parts.
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Old 05-08-2018, 01:56 AM   #38
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I rebuilt my m46 OD once, turns out the pressure spring broke in half, causing it not to build pressure after it warmed up. Replaced the spring and it was good to go.
Same thing happened to mine (broke PRV spring). Where did you find a replacement spring?
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:01 PM   #39
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Wellll ****. Everything is back together. New clutch is nice.... but the gd overdrive just kicks in and out. worse than before now.... maybe the solenoid is bad? I really have no idea at this point where to look. The "5" light stays lit as the OD kicks in and out
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Old 06-25-2018, 12:07 PM   #40
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I finally had the time to clean up the wiring and made sure every connection is solid and now works just fine! The OD is super smooth now. What sucks is that it still leaks. I'm going to remove the unit from the trans and put some gasket sealer on in combination with the paper gaskets.
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Old 06-25-2018, 04:08 PM   #41
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Before you remove the O/D, see if you can determine where the oil is coming from.

Maybe it's a seal that is accessible without removing the O/D.
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Old 06-25-2018, 05:19 PM   #42
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Before you remove the O/D, see if you can determine where the oil is coming from.

Maybe it's a seal that is accessible without removing the O/D.
I'll try... ATF is dripping from a number of places.
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Old 08-02-2018, 10:50 AM   #43
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Baaaaaaaaammmmmm this fixed the drip: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=343551

I didn't realize the studs were exposed to the guts of the OD. Thread sealant fixed it.

Now to work on these never ending oil drips....
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Old 08-02-2018, 05:21 PM   #44
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Did you do a pressure test when in O/D. there is a port to check this. you will need a 1000 lb gauge, it should put out 450 lbs aprox when in O/D, and the proper fittings, I had an 8' hose made up so that you can drive the car and test it.
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Old 08-02-2018, 06:05 PM   #45
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Here's another resource for overdrive parts, repair and advice.

http://www.quantumechanics.com/
It's been a long time (10+ years) since I last used Quantum Mechanics, but at the time, John was very helpful.
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:56 PM   #46
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Quote:
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Did you do a pressure test when in O/D. there is a port to check this. you will need a 1000 lb gauge, it should put out 450 lbs aprox when in O/D, and the proper fittings, I had an 8' hose made up so that you can drive the car and test it.
nah didn't mess with it. probably would have been a good idea before taking it apart, but it's super smooth and engages perfectly now/
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