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Old 04-22-2018, 06:14 PM   #26
Fred Gwynne
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Originally Posted by Lando View Post
It's a pretty straight forward job and if you listen to the advice from JohnMC, Johnlane and highperfauto, you will be able to complete it without damaging anything. I would just get the right special tools, a new belt, a HEPU water pump, the cam seal, aux shaft seal and front crank seal, the shim kit and do the whole job right and not have to tear into the front end for the rest of the cars expected life. Learn something new, build your confidence and save money. Even with the cost of the tools and preventative maintenance parts, you'll be saving money compared to having a pro do it. FYI, paying a professional to do this will cost around $600-$1000.

Good news about this motor is it's not interference, meaning you will not damage the valves or pistons by getting the timing wrong.

PS: I'd also take a look at the rubber on your harmonic balancer. If it is dry rotted it may start slipping and make it tough for you to check the ignition timing as well as causing low alternator output and and power steering and AC issues.
Thanks for your suggestion.
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:19 PM   #27
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Hi Fred. I did all this on the street one time. :(
Normally I'd do it at the garage with help and loads of great tools.

At any point in the proceedings did you let the belt on the right hand side go slack and one or more sprockets turned a bit?
Your cam belt looks on its last legs so you do need one of them.
To turn the camshaft bolt I used molegrips on the camshaft, tiny bit of penetrating oil behind the bolt, and a sharp tap with a small hammer on my spanner while the cambelt was wedged down below with some wooden wedges so nothing at all could move : because if anything moved I was into far more work ...
Yes to the tension on the right hand side and the sprockets did turn a slight bit. I wiggled a lot of that stuff. I hope that didn't mean I made the project worse...

There is so many more things involved in swapping cams then I had thought.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:59 AM   #28
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The only timing belt job I can think of that's easier than these would be on a Subaru. You pull the radiator and have perfect access.
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:10 PM   #29
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The only timing belt job I can think of that's easier than these would be on a Subaru. You pull the radiator and have perfect access.

Fred for clarity.... No need to pull the radiator in the Volvo.
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:32 PM   #30
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I always knock the tensioner tight with a hammer, lightly, since the spring usually doesn't make it right enough for me.
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Old 04-27-2018, 02:33 PM   #31
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I'm about to make an appointment for the local mechanic to work on my car but prior to that I looked around a little more on the internet and I found a thread where someone was having the same problem. Someone told him the valves may be stuck because he had the valve cover off for a while so he should take the plugs out and keep the engine turning over twice for one minute each time and then put the plugs and wires back in and try again. I gave it a go and as soon as I turned the key the motor started to sort of run for maybe 2 seconds. No luck after that so I sprayed starter fluid into the intake manifold which did nothing. All the plugs are sparking. Maybe I'm flooding it. Plugs look pretty wet when I take them out. That's just a quick updated. I don't have it in me to fiddle with the timing and belt change

I cannot find the crank position sensor wire or it's pig tail connector on the back of the motor. Did these things get move around during production of the car? I have an '87 with an auto trans. Thanks

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Old 04-29-2018, 05:14 PM   #32
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There is no crank sensor on an 87. They use a hall sensor in the distributor. If the plugs were sparking they would not be wet. So I would start by making sure the ignition is really working. If the plugs are wet they are getting fuel. So you need to check ignition for spark and to make sure the timing is correct for things to happen at the proper time.
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:09 PM   #33
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There is no crank sensor on an 87. They use a hall sensor in the distributor. If the plugs were sparking they would not be wet. So I would start by making sure the ignition is really working. If the plugs are wet they are getting fuel. So you need to check ignition for spark and to make sure the timing is correct for things to happen at the proper time.
I'm waiting to hear what the shop says but thank you for the additional education. When I said the plugs were sparking I should have stated that they were visibly sparking when they were out of the motor while the motor was cranking over. Plug wires attached to the plugs of course.
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Old 05-01-2018, 06:06 AM   #34
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There is no crank sensor on an 87. They use a hall sensor in the distributor.
The vacuum line was a give away. I say if you are motivated enuf to swap cams, then you should learn how to properly install one, just my two cents.
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Old 05-01-2018, 08:00 AM   #35
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Did you tell the shop you had the cam out? Sounds like you are off a tooth on one of the timing gears.
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:27 AM   #36
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The vacuum line was a give away. I say if you are motivated enuf to swap cams, then you should learn how to properly install one, just my two cents.

Did you read my early post which includes my statement of the study of the Haynes service manual which includes a step-by-step procedure?

By the way I accept no less than 5 cents so do me a favor and point out at least three of my next f' ups in your reply.

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Old 05-02-2018, 08:28 AM   #37
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Did you tell the shop you had the cam out? Sounds like you are off a tooth on one of the timing gears.
Yup I did let them know. I'm guessing that is the problem. I also asked them to replace the belt so hopefully that will set the timing correctly.
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Old 05-03-2018, 05:32 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Fred Gwynne View Post
I'm guessing I didn't read as much of the Hayne's manual as I should have.

Last edited by Otto Mattik; 05-03-2018 at 05:59 AM..
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Old 05-03-2018, 05:57 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Fred Gwynne View Post
Did you read my early post which includes my statement of the study of the Haynes service manual which includes a step-by-step procedure?

By the way I accept no less than 5 cents so do me a favor and point out at least three of my next f' ups in your reply.
Yes I read it all, so did they fix it ?
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:59 AM   #40
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"Study" does not mean read in it's entirety. You need to to get a life and quit acting in a condescending manor.
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Old 05-04-2018, 10:05 AM   #41
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Yes I read it all, so did they fix it ?
And yeah I don't think they have yet because I haven't gotten a ring from them which is kind of weird. They have always been pretty darn quick with the work they have provided for me.
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Old 05-04-2018, 03:30 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Fred Gwynne View Post
"Study" does not mean read in it's entirety. You need to to get a life and quit acting in a condescending manor.

Lighten up Francis, you tore into this job on your own, panicked and came to the forum to ask for help. My advice was to learn how to do it yourself(save money, have more control over parts used/quality/outcome of work, etc..etc..etc...). You said yourself you "didn't read as much as you should have" you made your own rain cloud.

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Old 05-12-2018, 04:02 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Otto Mattik View Post
Lighten up Francis, you tore into this job on your own, panicked and came to the forum to ask for help. My advice was to learn how to do it yourself(save money, have more control over parts used/quality/outcome of work, etc..etc..etc...). You said yourself you "didn't read as much as you should have" you made your own rain cloud.
Listen "Pal" the purpose of this thread was to help fix the problem, not how to have prevented it from happening. Let's stick to the god damn topic.

By the way I pointed out that I reviewed the Haynes Manual as an indication that I spent time learning before I got any grease on my hands. Should I have learned more? Yes! In fact I said, as shown in your most recent post, that I should have read more which indicates my awareness of my lack of knowledge prior to you pointing it the f*ck out!

Want to hear what my other f' up was? I responded to your god damn post telling me why I messed up. If I hadn't responded to it then this useless battle wouldn't have begun. I should have treated you like a frickin jack russel terrier and just ignored your ass and eventually you would stop barking.
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Old 05-12-2018, 04:05 PM   #44
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To everyone except Otto Mattik,

I appreciate all your thoughts and suggestions. It turns out that I had messed up the timing.
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Old 05-12-2018, 04:27 PM   #45
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Glad you got it sorted out. Ren and Stimpy would be happy and can now take your car and proceed with space madness.
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:38 PM   #46
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Glad you got it sorted out. Ren and Stimpy would be happy and can now take your car and proceed with space madness.
Happy happy joy joy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVM1nUmDHHc
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:42 PM   #47
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z
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Old 05-13-2018, 12:35 AM   #48
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Haha, classic stuff.
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