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Old 05-06-2018, 04:29 PM   #1
XxJenoxX
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Default E-Code Relay Placement: Stupid Questions Edition

I'm finally getting around to (hopefully) doing more than contemplating these ecodes. I finally have all the parts, and thank god I didn't put them on the sedan like originally intended. That would have sucked.
Just went out to the wagon and looked around at where I might want to mount the two relays, and I've arrived at a couple of questions:

1. Where are you guys putting them? I'm maybe regretting getting these nice waterproof ones, for the sheer size of them. There aren't a lot of good places to put them side-by-side, and the only mirrored locations to put one here and one there seem to be towards the front cowl, mounted vertically alongside the fan. It's a '92 with 2.4 and ABS, so while there's a lot of free space in the bay, flat surfaces to mount to are minimal. Strut tower on the passenger side? Seems like a lot of exhaust heat. God forbid I ever throw a turbo near them.

2. My understanding is that most people are using one for high beam and one for low beam. Where is the bulb-out indicator measuring resistance? If I put the relays off to one side, or one on each side of the cowl/radiator pillars (ffs, I can't think of what it's called), is it going to measure too much additional resistance on the side with longer wires from bulb to relay?

3. I was just going to probably put the fuse block somewhere inside the car, for consistency's sake. Any objections?

Bestow upon me your wisdoms! I've looked around, but the death of photobucket has made this less than helpful.
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Old 05-06-2018, 06:37 PM   #2
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OK I recently did this. I used a summit racing premade harness that Gary(gsellstrm) recommended. To mount the relays on the 93 wagon I put them on the vertical sheet metal to the side of the radiator and
near the battery. There is a vertical panel there that on the inside of it supports the condenser. I put the relays on a 90 degree bracket next to each other. On the battery side of the sheet metal. That way the positive hot lead can go right to the battery. I used the stock ground locations for the new headlight connectors but had to lengthen the wire for them. To splice the wires together the heat shrink sleeves with solder in the center are great for this stuff giving you a sealed splice.

I will try to get a picture of the relays in place and post it. Hope that helps if you can visualize what I wrote.
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Old 05-06-2018, 06:44 PM   #3
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Awesome, thanks. My only remaining concern would be the length of the wires to left and right and the resistance measurement? Have you had any issues? Where did you run the wiring to the passenger side headlamp to keep it out of the way, under the cowl? I'm making my own harness, since I have a ton of great wire and access to lots of tools and connectors.
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Old 05-06-2018, 06:47 PM   #4
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The measurement required to trip a bulb out may well be nowhere NEAR sensitive enough to be an issue here, but I work on electrical safety testers that basically play in the mud on some measurements, so wire length is the bane of my existence.
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Old 05-06-2018, 07:01 PM   #5
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It doesn't trip the relay at all. Probably doesn't work either though. lol. I ran the passenger side under the fan shroud. I started by going under the air filter box then continuing to the other side and coming up next to the radiator hose. I like that area because it is behind the front sheet metal. You could take down the tray and use some clamps to hold it along the lower radiator support. I don't know how long the harness was but you probably need about five foot run to be sure there is some extra.
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Old 05-06-2018, 07:04 PM   #6
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The after market harnesses use a male headlight plug that plugs into one headlight connector on the side of the car that the battery is on. This gives you trigger and ground for the trigger side of both relays. If you are going to make your own harness I highly recommend the Hella headlight connectors. They have nice spring loaded connections. They also handle high wattage bulbs without issue. I got them from Rallylights.com. Susquehanna motorsports I think is the company in PA.

Narva 100/90 bulbs work great for little cost.

Last edited by dl242gt; 05-06-2018 at 07:05 PM.. Reason: add bulbs.
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Old 05-06-2018, 07:24 PM   #7
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OK I recently did this. I used a summit racing premade harness that Gary(gsellstrm) recommended.
Is this the pre-made harness that you ordered?
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Old 05-06-2018, 07:34 PM   #8
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The after market harnesses use a male headlight plug that plugs into one headlight connector on the side of the car that the battery is on. This gives you trigger and ground for the trigger side of both relays. If you are going to make your own harness I highly recommend the Hella headlight connectors. They have nice spring loaded connections. They also handle high wattage bulbs without issue. I got them from Rallylights.com. Susquehanna motorsports I think is the company in PA.

Narva 100/90 bulbs work great for little cost.
Thanks! That and the pictures really help.

I just went poking and pulled the boots back. 3 wires to 3 wires or the HD connectors I got, yadda yadda...

I had always heard ECODES FIT, BUT YOU MUST MUST MUST WIRE IN RELAYS, AHHHH!

But am I chasing my tail on this, and I can work up a harness after I install? Like, splice in those H4 connectors, throw the ecodes in, and everything will actually work and the rest is just improvements?
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Old 05-06-2018, 07:49 PM   #9
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Just did this. The relays fit real nice on the top attaching fin on the air filter box.
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Old 05-06-2018, 08:00 PM   #10
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How far upstream are you guys running new wires? I know you can check the Daniel Stern diagram for the whole shebang, but is everyone really wiring entirely new to the battery, alt, headlight switch, selector, whole nine?
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Old 05-06-2018, 09:15 PM   #11
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Actually, it WOULD be cool to just replicate that harness, if I can get some more specifics from those who have used them...
I found the link to the harness itself.



Zooming in and seeing if I can replicate, but it's hard to tell what goes where with the loom wrap.
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Old 05-06-2018, 09:58 PM   #12
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When I installed e-codes, all I did was splice in the H4 connector with the stock wiring. The main reason to have the relays installed is higher light output and lower voltage use. So you can run the e-codes by just splicing in the connector and you'll be good to go.
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:12 PM   #13
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-34263/overview/

This is the one. It is nicer than the super cheapo ebay ones but it isn't as nice as the painless performance ones.
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:17 PM   #14
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Can anyone tell me what the pinout on the relays is? And what wires are going to that fusible link? I think I've figured out the rest, but I can't see some of it from that photo. Is that one still setup as one for highs and one for lows, or is it one relay per lamp?
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:27 PM   #15
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They are standard four pin relays. So pin 85 gets wired to 12v trigger from one of the old headlight wires on each relay. 86 is grounded. 30 is the high current 12v power source from the battery or alternator and 87 is the new headlights. Terminal 30 should get a fuse protected wire to it.
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:31 PM   #16
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Great, thanks. I have the additional 87a, but a bunch of digging seemed to indicate that I can just not use it, correct?

Or does it run the same as 87 and I could run one from 87 and one from 87a instead of running one new headlight wire spliced to both for each high and low?
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
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...... 30 is the high current 12v power source from the battery or alternator and 87 is the new headlights. Terminal 30 should get a fuse protected wire to it.
another elegant solution is a "fusible link" to protect your feed wire to the 30 contact. These are selected based upon the amperage..... FORD uses them heavily, and Volvo on occasion (the 7/9 E-fan relay is protected by a fusible link).

And for the OP, you'll probably gain a solid volt, maybe 1.5V directly to your headlights by use of the relay setup. The H4 lighting increase is substantial with that extra voltage..... do it!
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:43 PM   #18
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Ohhhh wait, 87a is closed, not open like 87, so both are gonna have to come off 87.

I have a little 6-position fuse block, so I had planned on using that. Leaves some room for anything else I might wanna fuse in the future, as well. I also have a single fusible link, but it's just a cheapie Pep Boys one I picked up for some experimentation with eliminating ceramic fuses.
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:53 PM   #19
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87a is usually the extra load connection that is closed when 87 is closed. Are you sure it isn't a closed connection when 87 is closed? There should be a diagram on the side of the relay to show how it is connected.
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:59 PM   #20
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HAHA, HAAAAAAA I am so tired.



But yeah, so....


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Old 05-06-2018, 11:59 PM   #21
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If you don't want to split the wires going to the headlights you can get relays with dual outputs. The 'K' relay found in 200 models (Bosch part #0 332 015 006) is one such relay but it only handles 15 amps/circuit.



This Hella relay is rated for 20 amps/circuit although it may be difficult to find.

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Old 05-07-2018, 01:35 AM   #22
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Yup you are correct. That relay you have switches between 87 and 87a. So just use 87 and split the wires or get the dual output relay. The Hella one above is really good to use since it's 40 amps rated.

This is the one I have used in the past. http://www.rallylights.com/hella-hl8...n-bracket.html

Last edited by dl242gt; 05-07-2018 at 01:39 AM.. Reason: add link
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:13 AM   #23
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I have piggyback spade terminals here at work, so I can probably terminate to one of those and use female spades to run the 2 wires in a way that looks a little neater.
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Old 05-07-2018, 02:04 PM   #24
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Make sure those piggy back adapters are rated for current like a headlight. Probably are fine but just a thought. There is already a hole in the sheet metal that works for the relay bracket at that spot in the picture. Bright lights big city.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:11 PM   #25
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I'm sure they're good, they're from work. They were purchased to handle pretty high currents from chillers and pumps on targeted temperature management therapy units. Good digikey stuff, not autozone junk.

I think I'm pretty good to get started tonight save for one thing...Where are you guys pulling the trigger wire from for pin 85? Looks like the H4's are 2 powers and a ground, so surely the trigger wires are upstream somewhere?

Last edited by XxJenoxX; 05-07-2018 at 04:01 PM.. Reason: Edited for pin accuracy, oops'd.
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