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Old 05-12-2018, 01:45 PM   #1
sideways242
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Exclamation 1984 242 lh2.4 swap issues (starts, then dies)

Hey there,

I'm about four weeks into this headache of a swap and I'm starting to feel a little hopeless.

Let's start with some details. I have a 1984 Volvo 242 thats been a great car.
My buddy and I rebuilt and swapped in a b230ft out of a turbo 940, which I had running happily with a 13g at 12psi on the stock k jet harness with a turbo computer. I have done a t5 transmission swap with upgraded clutch etc...ALL WORKING GREAT TOGETHER BEFORE LH 2.4!
After having noticed that the K jet harness was deteriorating at the touch of a finger, I decided to grab an LH 2.4 harness out of a 93 240 that was in mint condition. After following many threads carefully and swapping a flywheel and yellow 850 turbo injectors my car fired right up for about 2 seconds and then died. I cleared the ECU (lh 2.4 turbo) and cranked again to check codes and got the code 121 (MAF signal error). Easy enough I thought!!!!!

New MAF (confirmed to be good) out of lh2.4, nothing. Checked MAF wires and they had the same figures as my healthy running 91 245. It starts every time I crank but then after a great sounding two seconds, it just dies. It also idles without the MAF plugged in! So it has to be MAF related right?!?!? I have spark, fuel (can hear pumps priming with key), and timing so all systems seem to be ready to go!

At this point, I'm pretty stumped and would love some input from someone who had similar problems. Whoever can figure it out gets beer money through venmo just sayin'
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Old 05-12-2018, 02:56 PM   #2
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Does it stay running with ether or brake cleaner pulsed into the throttle body?

Does your fuel pump stay powered up? Use a test light.
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Old 05-12-2018, 08:16 PM   #3
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Have you upgraded the ignition switch? Older switch doesn't have pins in the proper places. Did this blunder to my self-twice.
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:18 PM   #4
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ZVOLV, it runs great with the MAF unplugged and I can hear the fuel pump going the whole time! it just smells like it running incredibly rich.
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:19 PM   #5
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2 old for this, I've never heard of doing this! Would I just pull a switch from an LH 2.4 car and switch it with mine? is it plug and play or more wiring? thanks
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Old 05-13-2018, 05:28 AM   #6
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You gotta rig the circuit so **** stays powered up properly.
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Old 05-13-2018, 10:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sideways242 View Post
ZVOLV, it runs great with the MAF unplugged and I can hear the fuel pump going the whole time! it just smells like it running incredibly rich.
This feels like a bad maf. Grab a junkyard 016 unit and try it out. Do you have a WB gauge? What does it say?

Shoot me a PM, I did this swap on my car and may be able to help.
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Old 05-13-2018, 01:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
You gotta rig the circuit so **** stays powered up properly.
Would there be a wire or something that I'm missing? If the car stays running when the MAF is unplugged is that possible? Thanks
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Old 05-13-2018, 01:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
This feels like a bad maf. Grab a junkyard 016 unit and try it out. Do you have a WB gauge? What does it say?

Shoot me a PM, I did this swap on my car and may be able to help.
Will do!
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Old 05-13-2018, 04:33 PM   #10
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Try a MAF.
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Old 05-13-2018, 08:06 PM   #11
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Swap the switch. No messing with wires.
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Old 05-13-2018, 11:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Try a MAF.
Will do! Ill grab a third tomorrow
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Old 05-14-2018, 03:23 AM   #13
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-1993-...8AAMXQXTZRfEHu

this ? (maybe not that lock barrel but this type switch ? )
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Old 05-14-2018, 12:22 PM   #14
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I'll report back when I grabbed a new switch either today or tomorrow. I appreciate the help guys!
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Old 05-14-2018, 12:33 PM   #15
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With the early switch and the later harness the car will run in the start position, not in the run position. The pin out is different.
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Old 05-14-2018, 03:49 PM   #16
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Sounds like it may be the way it's rigged up. We did the swap in a 1984 240 and I forget the details, but I think we repinned a wire in the ignition switch. As in, changed the position of the terminal. It's been years. But you gotta make sure you have ignition on signal, uh, with the ignition on.

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Old 05-15-2018, 05:51 PM   #17
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I swapped in a new brown switch today from an lh 2.4 240 and it cranks, but only gives one spark when the key is turned off. and the system is shutting down? Ideas?
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:40 PM   #18
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It's only 5 wires. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out which circuit isn't juiced up.
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
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It's only 5 wires. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out which circuit isn't juiced up.
I followed your previous post (which was very helpfull) to a T! And even with wiring messed up for the ignition would it run fine without the MAF?
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:37 PM   #20
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These cars heavily depend on the MAF signal compared to modern cars. It runs with the MAF unplugged!? Next step is try another MAF.

Or.... you may have huge air leaks. I did a headskaget job just about a year ago and I had a loose hose clamp and it barely ran. I recommend you check all you idle air hoses and intake hoses and their clamps. I use a smoke machine. What also works is having it running and hose down areas heavily with brake cleaner and see if you can get it to stumble or stall.
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:37 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
These cars heavily depend on the MAF signal compared to modern cars. It runs with the MAF unplugged!? Next step is try another MAF.

Or.... you may have huge air leaks. I did a headskaget job just about a year ago and I had a loose hose clamp and it barely ran. I recommend you check all you idle air hoses and intake hoses and their clamps. I use a smoke machine. What also works is having it running and hose down areas heavily with brake cleaner and see if you can get it to stumble or stall.
Thanks for the advice, I'll try the smoke trick after work and see if I can find anything and report back!
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Old 05-16-2018, 11:09 PM   #22
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I've tried two methods of finding air leaks, and I found one minor that I've since then fixed, But sadly nothing has helped! I also tried a new MAF today, and just like the old one, the car starts, stutters then dies.
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Old 05-16-2018, 11:14 PM   #23
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Also, I found a blue 2 pin plug that is on the LH harness that doesn't seem to have a place in my setup, could this mystery connector be anything to worry about?
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Old 05-17-2018, 12:27 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Also, I found a blue 2 pin plug that is on the LH harness that doesn't seem to have a place in my setup, could this mystery connector be anything to worry about?
There are two 2-pin ECU configuration plugs right next to the main LH2.4 ECU connector, one's blue and one's black, with brown or brown/black wires. Both are supposed to have jumper wires in them. Is this what you're talking about?
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:48 PM   #25
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There are two 2-pin ECU configuration plugs right next to the main LH2.4 ECU connector, one's blue and one's black, with brown or brown/black wires. Both are supposed to have jumper wires in them. Is this what you're talking about?

No thise arent the connections I was speaking of. There's a blue connector identical to the one that plugs in to the knock sensor, but I don't see a place for it on my car.
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