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Old 05-31-2013, 08:05 PM   #26
Mogly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
not always true. flaky coils can manifest themselves in a number of ways.. total failures, external or internal shorts under load, weak output due to internal components going bad. they are not simply a good then bad thing.
Yea true that they do some funky stuff some times. To bad there not like the old coils (cheap).
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:56 PM   #27
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My miata coils with lh 2.4 were very weak. I replaced them and gained a great amount of cruising vacuum and power and mpg. This was yesterday. I couldn't figure out what it was and I had just about done all else.
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:06 PM   #28
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Mirror polishing the *intake ports* can affect drivability/etc especially at low rpm. Didn't do that did you?

Last edited by smokeyfan1000; 05-31-2013 at 09:13 PM..
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeyfan1000 View Post
Mirror polishing the *intake ports* can affect drivability/etc especially at low rpm. Didn't do that did you?
Don't need the rough surface with fuel injection, that shouldn't cause his problem.
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:39 AM   #30
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I did nothing to the intake port or manifold

I just tried an original distributor 17 advanced @1000rpm, no change in running.
That should rule out plugs, coil's and coil control

On a movie I made you can hear nothing, only some random shake sometime (idle)

I will now try a valve lash of 0,50mm
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Old 06-01-2013, 09:45 AM   #31
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Are you using a carburettor fuel tank or an injection tank? Years ago I converted a 120 to D jet using the original tank, and the damn thing just didn't want to run right. It drove me insane. Turned out the unbaffled tank was causing the pump to briefly suck air as the fuel sloshed about. Altered the fuel pickup and cured the issue.

Carburettor fuel pickups have been known to crack in 160/140 tanks.

I doubt it's the exhaust ports.

Are you running 34 degrees full advance? That seems on the low side to me for a B30, 39 or so ought to be quite safe.
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:16 AM   #32
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Its an original d-jet car,

The fuel pressure is constant and the flow is ok to.

36 degrees full advance for now, kicking in @3000rpm, the engine pulls real hard @3000

The map signal is at 76kpa at idle, thats realy low. The original B30F head idled @45kpa. I changed the head and cam at the same time, thats when the rough running began. I blame the cam for the low map signal.

Changing the valvelash is not gonna happen today, I got a BBQ tonight and need to clean up the place :p
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:23 AM   #33
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I did made the intake ready for an lpg injection system. I made a small hole and installed a nozzle just before the mounting flange in the intake. Just before the head on each cylinder. There should be a bit of nozzle inside the intake port, (few mm). Each nozzle is blocked right now. Should I try a 'unmodified' intake?
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:44 AM   #34
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Quote:
If it was ignition two cylinders would miss not just one. And ignition coils either work or they dont.
False. It has been my experience, especially in bmw's that the secondary circuit can fail on a coil. The car will run on all cylinders, then when the motor is loaded the coil pack will misfire.

Sounds like a spark issue or rf frequency issue. I would measure the resistance of all the spark plug wires. The longer the plug wire , the more the resistance. I would also measure the resistance of each fuel injector to make sure you don't have one hung shut or open. If you have a distributor, check that the cap isnt moist or cracked and the condition of rotor.Check that yu dont have ignition wires runing accross the path of electrical wires, they can get feedback and cause all sorts of cool issues. I had to shield all my wires tha ran near ignition cables for the haltech. Very sensitive. Good luck, hope that helps.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:46 AM   #35
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Spray your modded spot on the intake with it running with carb cleaner or wd40. If idle picks up or drops -you got a leak. Whats your vacuum like at idle?
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:52 AM   #36
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http://www.amazon.com/Calterm-E66331.../dp/B000JFHMPC

This is one of the best tools for least amount of cost. It works great on most coil packs - except the highly shielded ones from ford. You hold this tool on or around the coil pack, while holding down the metal tab, adjust the dial for sensitivity and the light will flash at the tip red and green signaling firing of the coil pack. Mine can pick up a coil pack firing almost a foot and half away from the unit on full sensitivity.

$25 is well worth the price if you have ever diagnosed a bad coil pack before.
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Old 06-01-2013, 02:39 PM   #37
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Can you find out which cylinder(s) is misfiring?
If you can isolate which one (or ones) it is, you should be able to narrow it down by swapping things from cylinder to cylinder.
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Old 06-01-2013, 02:46 PM   #38
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If you have headers, a wet rag applied momentarily to to each cylinder's header pipe will tell ya which one is missing........listen for the difference in the "hiss"
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Old 06-01-2013, 03:56 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Whats your vacuum like at idle?
Do you even read what the OP is saying? From this ignorant post i say no.

Any ways +1 on the valve lash once again.
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Old 06-01-2013, 04:05 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeyfan1000 View Post
If you have headers, a wet rag applied momentarily to to each cylinder's header pipe will tell ya which one is missing........listen for the difference in the "hiss"
Get one of the temp sensors that ya point at it and pull the trigger... It lights up a spot and gives the temperature of it. Very handy and not expensive.
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:56 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnLane View Post
Get one of the temp sensors that ya point at it and pull the trigger... It lights up a spot and gives the temperature of it. Very handy and not expensive.
A favorite tool around here, it's useful for so many diagnosis or tuning needs.
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Old 06-02-2013, 07:43 AM   #42
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I would check cam timing. I've met cams that heve been off 20 degrees.
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:08 AM   #43
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How should I check the cam timing? I don't have any information about the cam.
I bought the cam from a local dealer that knows what he is doing, so I trusted him when het selected this cam for me. The cam is a kg17 from kgtrimnnig in sweden
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:49 AM   #44
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Today I adjusted the valvelash to a 0,50mm feeler guage (0.20 inch) a 0,55mm (0.22) feeler gauge wouldn't fit trough.
I adjusted the exhaust of a cylinder when the inlet from that same cylinder went from open to closed I set the exhaust lash at the fully closed inlet position. When the exhaust cracked open I set the inlet. I believe this is a fail proof procedure. any comments on this would be nice :P

During my test drive I noticed my AFR/lambda reading's where lean! (17:1 lean) So something in the combustion is definitely changed! Because of the lean condition I couldn't feel if the stumble is still there. My guess is that more fuel is burning causing the lean condition. maybe no more mr misfire?

I'll go retune the MS to find out!
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Old 06-02-2013, 10:18 AM   #45
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I would start by shifting the whole table up 10% on the fuel and see what it does now that the valves are adjusted.
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:03 PM   #46
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I retuned the engine.....



Not the result I wanted! The VE table went up for sure, but the stumble is still there!
I have a week full of driving to work to do, I will try some different tune's (ignition wise)

My last log

My last tune
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Old 06-03-2013, 02:28 PM   #47
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Hopefully the power went up a little as well? Certainly a sign things are behaving somewhat normally.

Had much of a chance to look for oddities in the logs yet, for tach signal, accel enrichment, anything of that nature?
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Old 06-03-2013, 02:57 PM   #48
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a bit smoother drive should be more power? I searched the log for accel enrichments, spike's or resets there are none.. I hit the space (manual mark) after I felt the engine run 'uneven' spark advance went from 26.6 to 25 on one event.

The tach signal is a tiny bit jumping up down, 20rpm the line is zigzag all the time.
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:39 PM   #49
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Hmm, 20rpm is nothing, and the timing change is probably bouncing from one bin to the other. Pulsewidth staying pretty smooth when it happens? Mine when it does it's random unexplained burp, the PW drops to 0 for a split second, then back to normal.

I kinda wonder if maybe it's a funky characteristic of the cam perhaps?

Also, what's your vacuum like now, after the valve adjustment?
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:05 PM   #50
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Quote:
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I would check cam timing. I've met cams that heve been off 20 degrees.
true that I had an autotech cam that was off by about 30 they put the key in the wrong spot.
best to use a degree wheel and a dial indicator on the valve stem and compare the readings to the camshaft manufactures specifications for valve opening and closing degrees
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