home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > performance & modifications

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-04-2013, 06:01 AM   #51
OttoB
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: E(Seattle!Vancouver! San Francisco!LA!) Helsinski
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B-lennium View Post
How should I check the cam timing? I don't have any information about the cam.
I bought the cam from a local dealer that knows what he is doing, so I trusted him when het selected this cam for me. The cam is a kg17 from kgtrimnnig in sweden
KG17 has 284 degrees and 7,6 mm lift at cam. LSA 108, and I have similar Volvo cam 762 from Timos motors. If your cam is anyhow close to mine, you should have @ TDC intake open about 2 mm and exhaust 2,5 mm. These are measured direct from cam, zero lash.

My cam has max intake lift at 108 ATDC.
OttoB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 11:36 AM   #52
Mogly
Board Member
 
Mogly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tucson, AZ
Default

Any luck with the tunning? How is the car running?
Mogly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 12:36 PM   #53
B-lennium
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Holland
Default

Tuning make's no difference, changing sparkplugs (used set) from bp6es to bp7es made it worse (a tiny bit). I am now fabricating a piston stop (kill an old sparkplug and put an bolt trough it) and degree wheel.

I'll try to find a decent priced IR thermo gun (250 degrees celcius is enough?) To measure the runner heat.
B-lennium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 01:17 PM   #54
JohnMc
PV Abuser
 
JohnMc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
Default

I know it's a new cam and lifters, but it almost sounds like a flat cam lobe.

I've had that happen multiple times on my abused B20's. The symptoms are always weird, I always suspect something else, until I pull the valve cover and rotate the engine around and the flat cam lob's failure to open the valve sticks out like a sore thumb.
__________________
'63 PV Rat Rod
'93 245 16VT Classic #1141
JohnMc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 01:24 PM   #55
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

It does sound that was doesn't it John. Had a couple over the years as well, just did one on a friend's B20 this winter, 1 was gone, 2 others were going. Being new I'd like to hope that's not the case though.

Plugs making a difference is odd, certainly leans more towards ignition side, unless the gap was different between the two.

Not sure if a 250*C gun will work or not, might need 400-500. At idle it's borderline, higher rpm than that it'll likely not be enough.
__________________
RIP
Doug Williams "Mr. Doug" 4/15/2009
Pete Fluitman "fivehundred" 7/14/2013
Mick Starkey "TrickMick" 1/10/14
Mark Baldwin "blue850t5" 7/19/18
Nick Fengler "fengler" 8/6/18
Thomas Fritz "stealthfti" 10/11/18


74 144 B20
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=224983

90 745Ti
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=334698

If you need Superpro bushings PM me for price and availability!
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 01:26 PM   #56
B-lennium
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Holland
Default

I checked the lift when adjusting the lash, nothing :p
B-lennium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2013, 08:35 AM   #57
B-lennium
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Holland
Default

My new IR gun tells me all the cylinders idle at around 300* C but number 1 @270*C ! What could be the issue here? I see nothing differnet on the sparkplug's 1 and 2 (270* and 303*) And I am using my sparkreading black magic!
B-lennium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2013, 07:13 PM   #58
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

Hmm, tells me that's likely a problem hole, so certainly a starting point! Swap injector 1 and 2, then plug wire 1 and 2, then plug 1 and 2, see if any of those make a difference.

Also, is this on the coil packs still, or the dizzy? If it's the dizzy, that rules out most of the system from the dizzy on back to the coil, so just fuel, plug wire, or plug.

If swapping none of that makes a difference, and the valve lash and compression numbers are all the same as neighboring cylinders, plus cam lobe lift is the same, I'm getting to the point of being stumped.
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2013, 12:00 PM   #59
haltechsupra
Board Member
 
haltechsupra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
Default

Quote:
If it was ignition two cylinders would miss not just one. And ignition coils either work or they dont.
I replied False.
I guess you got butthurt on my reply and wrote this ?
Quote:
Do you even read what the OP is saying? From this ignorant post i say no.
Funny . I was looking for a gauge read not a map sensor read. Thanks.

Never heard anything back on plug wire resistance. Did op check this?
haltechsupra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2013, 01:12 PM   #60
B-lennium
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Holland
Default

I think changing to the original distributor (inc plugwire's and new plugs) ruled out the whole ignition.

I did hookup a vacuum gauge, same as the mapsensor -0.20 bar the needle bounces a bit
B-lennium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2013, 02:06 PM   #61
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

Cool, just wanted to verify you hadn't switched back to the coil packs. Yeah, that does rule out the ignition side.

What does the vacuum gauge bounce between at idle? For example 15" to 18" (that's our normal measurement format here in the states).
What does it do at say 1500-2000rpm? Any fluctuations go away?
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 02:15 PM   #62
haltechsupra
Board Member
 
haltechsupra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
Default

Cool deal.

Have you tried a cold compression test vs a hot compression test?

And did you check each injector for ohms? When they freeze up or hang-they will be at a different ohm than the rest. Test the vacuum leak suspect? Still running crappy?
haltechsupra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 02:16 PM   #63
haltechsupra
Board Member
 
haltechsupra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
Default

c

Last edited by haltechsupra; 06-10-2013 at 02:17 PM.. Reason: double post glitch again..
haltechsupra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 02:46 PM   #64
Mogly
Board Member
 
Mogly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tucson, AZ
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by haltechsupra View Post
I replied False.
I guess you got butthurt on my reply and wrote this ?
.
.

Quote:
Originally Posted by haltechsupra View Post
Funny . I was looking for a gauge read not a map sensor read. Thanks.
?


Quote:
Originally Posted by haltechsupra View Post
Never heard anything back on plug wire resistance. Did op check this?
, Even better he replaced the whole ignition system and still nothing so that rules out what you're asking.
Mogly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 05:15 PM   #65
haltechsupra
Board Member
 
haltechsupra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
Default


That will show me, for trying to help with correct information.



I asked a few more questions than that.
haltechsupra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 05:50 PM   #66
B-lennium
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Holland
Default

hey guys, I will try to answer all your questions, but it take's time. I dont have all the tools. Sorry for the metric numbers, I don't know the conversions to the us systems.


@haltechsupra

The injectors are fine, I tested them for flow and spray pattern using the megasquirt in test mode. All did a nice 100ml squirt they are even within 2%. They all ohm 2.3

Cold compression 155psi, warm 170psi even on all 6 hole's.

@2000 rpm (no load) the map signal is 75kpa, so 25kpa or 0.25 bar vacuum.
Under load (steady driving) its around 80kpa. The mapsensor is telling the same as the vacuum gauge I have.

One for the ms guys, my #1 tooth angle is 235* , would that be a problem? Most builds and OEM use +/- 60* on a 6 cyl

I am shooting in the dark for now, the funny thing is other than the light stumble its drives ok, no stalls or strange acceleration only the nervous cruse.
B-lennium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 05:50 PM   #67
B-lennium
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Holland
Default

Srry...
B-lennium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 06:12 PM   #68
DNAsEqUeNcE
†John3:16
 
DNAsEqUeNcE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Dallas
Default

That's a serious tooth angle for TDC.
__________________
DNAsEqUeNcE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #69
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

That tooth angle is roughly 180* out! Perhaps try 240* to make it true 180* out or figure out why it is 180* out?

What type of pickup? CAS, crank sensor, etc.?
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 06:47 PM   #70
Fivehundred
.
 
Fivehundred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: UK
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B-lennium View Post
I am now fabricating a piston stop (kill an old sparkplug and put an bolt trough it) and degree wheel.
Just be careful of the dwell at the top of the stroke. It's nigh on impossible to find true TDC if your only access to the piston crown is via the spark plug hole.
Fivehundred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 07:29 PM   #71
haltechsupra
Board Member
 
haltechsupra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
Default

Whoah! Now theres an issue! And lookit, it happens to be ignition/ fuel related.

Even though it was not directly any of my suggestions.

Good luck.
haltechsupra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 03:36 AM   #72
B-lennium
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Holland
Default

Ok the tooth nr is a problem? I can't understand why, the commanded ignition advance is the advance I read on the damper.

Some of you know that I experimented with a holset turbo on this car. I replaced the alternator to make room at the exhaust side of the car. My Vr sensor wouldn't fit because of that (on the camcover). I moved the sensor to the exhaust side (down low). I didn't changed the crank wheel (36-1).
B-lennium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 10:16 AM   #73
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

So are you running something like the Ford EDIS wheel? Just trying to get all the details on what the setup is, to help people out....
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 02:18 PM   #74
B-lennium
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Holland
Default

Yes a 36-1 wheel, just like ford. I just bought a wheel from triggerwheel.com
B-lennium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 02:23 PM   #75
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

Any chance of a bent or mismachined tooth on the wheel?

edit: may not be an issue if you ran the stock ignition setup when you swapped back to the stock dizzy, just asking. Trying for the more off the wall ideas.
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:40 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.