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Another T6 build (it's the new 16v +T, right?)

cerakote?

I've never seen cerakote brand used on anything other than guns..:e-shrug:....not saying that you can't, just never seen it

Techline is what I use for engine coatings, and it's used very successfully. They have both water and chemical based versions. Anybody can buy the water based versions, but only shops can buy the chemical.

http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/default.htm

Makes your engine much more forgiving to boost, high compression, timing, and the inevitable detonation from unexpected lean conditions.

That is to say, I like it :rockon:
 
Interesting. Cerakote has other divisions, but yes they do have a high temp ceramic option available. Same stuff really.
 
Comments below.

Keep in mind this info is maybe a bit dated now- but here are some thoughts.

The later pistons with 1.2mm top rings are a pain to get rings for.

It was actually more straight forward and not much more money to do T5 pistons (which come complete with pins and rings and incidentally use a 1.5mm top ring just like all sorts of 1980's VW/Audi products with 81mm bore, so getting future replacements is easy). They were about $80 a pop then but I think they're a bit more now. Brian at Amboss Corp is the guy to talk to.

I read about this in your thread, though I was under the impression that it was done for the sake of better ring spacing. At first glance, the pistons that came out of the engine look to be in good shape. Ultimately, the cost difference between replacement rings and replacement piston assemblies may decide the issue.

I'd leave the oil pump alone if you have no specific reason to do otherwise. Do get a waterpump and make sure it has a steel impeller. Replace the t-belt tensioner even if it seems fine.

I guess I'll just clean the existing oil pump up and reuse it. I'm planning on replacing the T-belt and associated parts, along with the water pump. While it's all apart, I might as well do all of the seals too (the idea of reusing any of them after having things stripped down seems terrible).


The rod bending lore is purely related to tuning issues, but while it's apart h beams are cheap insurance. I made ~470whp on stock rods and pistons, but with a big turbo which kept low rpm cylinder pressure and boost spikes low to nonexistent. I made ~540whp on h-beams and T5 pistons with a much smaller turbo. It was a great setup.

Good to know. I talked to Eric (Erik?) at RSI and confirmed that they can still get me the rods. Planning on ordering a set of those and a set of ARP head studs from them later this week. I just need to confirm that this block is good before I pull the trigger.

As for the ceramic coating, I've read a little about it but haven't done enough research to form an opinion at this point. I may see what the engine machinist has to say about it. Certainly a DIY option would be preferable financially and in terms of experience but I also don't want to make things worse.


EDIT: I'll spend some time today looking a bit deeper into the advantages/costs of the ceramic coatings.
 
This thread is interesting to me since i've been wanting to do this for some time now. When I get back to the states I'm picking up a '98 S90, and I'll keep my eyes peeled for a wrecked S80 T6. I mentioned the ceramic coatings since I'd like to do a complete internal coverage. Just to see what disastrous effects that may befall the rest of the driveline:oogle:

And if it doesn't work out, oh well, I'll just drop in an LSx/t56 and destroy some pavement:twisted:

That being said, I'm going to keep watching your progress and maybe learn some stuff while I daydream of returning home and driving again.
 
Keep in mind this info is maybe a bit dated now-

It was actually more straight forward and not much more money to do T5 pistons (which come complete with pins and rings)

You might check again. Last time I ordered T5 pistons, 0.4 oversize I must add, they came without rings.
 
You might check again. Last time I ordered T5 pistons, 0.4 oversize I must add, they came without rings.

You can easily confirm via the mahle catalog. Whatever part number I used, they were specifically listed as complete with rings.
That said, I specifically noted in my post that my info is a few years old now. I feel no need to check again. I bought what I bought.

*edit* mahle 024 38 02 is still in the catalogue and still listed as "kolben(complett)" They define "complett" in the catalogue. Sounds like its worth double checking though.

Ben,
I have no speculation to offer with regards to why anyone else's rods may be bent. I can only report my own experiences, and like I also said, h beams are cheap insurance regardless.
 
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First two pistons are done with round 1 of ultrasonic cleaning. They're coming out cleaner than I expected but I'll probably toss them in for a while longer just to see what happens. Skirts have some wear but the oil retention grooves are still present.
One of them looks pretty good but the other has a fair number of impact marks (or some form of pitting).

WP_000220.jpg


WP_000226.jpg


This is the one that concerns me.

WP_000225.jpg


May as well look into Mahle replacements if I'm going to have to replace the above anyway.


Was going to take the block in today but couldn't make it due to a UW EcoCar2 controls team meeting.
 
I'm assuming that the damage to the piston above is sufficient to warrant its replacement and potentially the replacement of the remaining 5. It seems to me that the defects/damage while not necessarily structurally compromising, could cause localized hotspots and lead to failure. Can anyone confirm or discredit this assumption based on the above photo?

Also, in the collective experience of those who have already done this, what are my best options for purchasing replacement pistons/rings? Go through the dealership (using my employee discount)? Purchase aftermarket via the internet or a phone order? Pull the best 6 pistons out of the two overheated '00 B5234s sitting in the garage and re-ring them (assuming they are all D size pistons)? Try to source parts through the shop that will be doing the machining?



Granted, it's a ways off but I want to get the ball rolling so that when I have time I'm not waiting on parts.

I found this page in the catalog. Do the letters in the product number correspond at all to Volvo's piston diameter lettering system?
http://catalog.mahle-aftermarket.com/product_catalog/modules/motor/detail.xhtml?motorId=3655
 
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First check if oversize isn't needed. Like mentioned before, last set of pistons I ordered from Volvo about 3 months ago came without rings, separate order number in Euro Volvo system. The pistons also weren't stamped with a brand name and assumed not Mahle.
 
Went to the machine shop today. 1-4 are at 3.191" (81.05mm), 5 & 6 are at 3.192" (81.07mm). I'm .002" (~.05mm) out of round.

If I'm doing my math right, that puts me at 81.12mm diameter max by the time everything is round and matched.

Factory piston clearance is listed as .01-.03mm. Thus my target piston diameter is currently 81.9mm, if I've done my math right. This exceeds Volvo G-marked factory replacements for the 81mm bore engines, which come in at 81.04mm-81.05mm.

G-marked Volvo pistons would leave me with ~.0015" or .04mm piston to wall clearance. I'm guessing that I'll be running the pistons a little hotter than stock (or with a ceramic coating) given the boost levels I'll need to hit my power goals. I'm guessing that this warrants additional clearance but I have no way of quantifying it.

Anyone have input on this? Care to compare to clearances from personal experience? Thermal expansion data maybe?
 
Went to the machine shop today. 1-4 are at 3.191" (81.05mm), 5 & 6 are at 3.192" (81.07mm). I'm .002" (~.05mm) out of round.

If I'm doing my math right, that puts me at 81.12mm diameter max by the time everything is round and matched.

Factory piston clearance is listed as .01-.03mm. Thus my target piston diameter is currently 81.9mm, if I've done my math right. This exceeds Volvo G-marked factory replacements for the 81mm bore engines, which come in at 81.04mm-81.05mm.

G-marked Volvo pistons would leave me with ~.0015" or .04mm piston to wall clearance. I'm guessing that I'll be running the pistons a little hotter than stock (or with a ceramic coating) given the boost levels I'll need to hit my power goals. I'm guessing that this warrants additional clearance but I have no way of quantifying it.

Anyone have input on this? Care to compare to clearances from personal experience? Thermal expansion data maybe?

I have only used actual oversize pistons from Mahle. They are sized based on finished bore diameter. In other words, if you buy an 81.2mm piston, that is the FINISHED bore size required, not the size of the piston. A bore diameter of 81.2 results in the recommended clearance.
 
According to my friend at the parts desk, I would be looking at $160 per cylinder for 81.4 T6 piston sets (with rings and pins). He says the .4 and .2 850 pistons are NLA from Volvo but I think I found .4s online for $120.
RSI said they can order waveguides in whatever size I want for about $150.
 
Pitting as shown is usually a sign of detonation damage. How did the rod bearings look on those pistons?
I know you want new pistons, but as long as the pitting isn't too deep, you can file off the sharp edges and run them.
300hp should be nothing for a twin cam 6 cyl. If I can do it on a 40yr old japanese tractor motor, you should have no problem.

Also, IIRC a set of completely custom forged pistons and rings came out to under $800 for that same tractor motor (L28 bored to 3l with long rods + stock crank).
 
None of the bearings showed any scoring but they were pretty beat.

WP_000231.jpg



My two strikes against the current pistons are the pitting and the piston to wall gap. The downside of the forged ones is obviously the cost.
 
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