My 1965 122s Journey

After a year of looking for the right one I finally found an amazon that fit my needs. My ideal car was one that ran and drove decent, had pretty good paint cause I don't want to keep it original. The interior didn't really matter since there are so many replacement parts.

What I came up with

1965 122s

The paint is in pretty decent paint for it being original, has the usual flaws and rust. Really like it, shows the age/history of it
Its pretty well gone through mechanical wise, the car runs and driver pretty well. Needs new tires and some bushings.

The passenger side has some bondo work that can be seen, the door will be replaced with a different one hopefully. Will have to weigh my options with what I want to do with the rear quarter panel

Newer parts

Front Wheel Bearings
Electric Fuel Pump
Brakes/Rotors/caliper were rebuilt
New radiator
E-Fan
Weber 32/36

Interior

VP Autoparts Front Seat Covers
VP Autoparts Front Door cards
Repainted dash

My Goal

Bring it back to as stock as possible with a good ride. Im wanting to do some progressive sport springs, bilsteins, all the bushings and a ipd sway bar up front

Interior will be redone and everything purchased through VP Autoparts, want some good quality parts.

The day after I got it home it went in for a wash, it was sitting under a tree and was covered with these red marks. Even with a pressure washer they did come off. Broke out the clay bar and my Torq orbital buffer. What I thought would be a quick job turned into a 5 hour one. But the results were worth it.

Found out that almost every rubber seal on the car needs to be replaced, first order from IPD and Vp Autoparts will be a good one

89-240gl+t said:

The day after I got it home it went in for a wash, it was sitting under a tree and was covered with these red marks. Even with a pressure washer they did come off. Broke out the clay bar and my Torq orbital buffer. What I thought would be a quick job turned into a 5 hour one. But the results were worth it.

Found out that almost every rubber seal on the car needs to be replaced, first order from IPD and Vp Autoparts will be a good one

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Those red tree stains are a pain to deal with. I remember spending hours on that when I got my 240. They are really bad on light single stage paint.

Car looks clean after the wash. Good looking car.

Yeah it was pretty bad, but with the buffer and a little bit of time it come off pretty easily!

wtarkington said:

Car looks clean after the wash. Good looking car.

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No perfect but definitely 100% better then it was before

ended up putting in some hefty orders today

IPD

Two Side Mirrors
Trunk Rubber Seals
Brake Light Rubber Seals
Turn Signal Rubber Seals
Filler Neck Rubber Seals
Hood Cushion Rubber Stoppers
Trunk Handle Rubber Seal
Hood To Fender Rubber Cushions
Hood Release Cable
Pedal Pads
Spark Plugs/Wires

VP Autoparts

Rear Seat Cover
Headliner
Rear side Panel Covers
Rear Shelf Panel
Hood Rubber Seals Front and Rear
Windshield Seal
Rear Window Seal
Door Pop out Window Rubber Seals
Door Seal Rubber Kits with the Windlace
Interior Dome Light

Pretty stoked to get the parts to really get this project running!

Also had to order a new Carburetor throttle linkage since the hack job the previous owner installed is sticking pretty bad.



She got to meet the 242 today

Nice start for what looks like a nice car!

That linkage is kind of horrifying to look at. I thought mine with a janky auxiliary return spring was a hack job.

It is probably sticking because the part that mounts onto the manifold should have a bearing or ball joint for the shaft to rotate around.

Also you are missing a metal battery tie down.

Personally I thought the throttle linkage on the weber was a pain. The pedal travel always seemed a bit long and my foot would end up in a weird position next to the tunnel to hit WOT. Although that may have just been the larger transmission tunnel as my car was once an automatic.

spock345 said:

That linkage is kind of horrifying to look at. I thought mine with a janky auxiliary return spring was a hack job.

It is probably sticking because the part that mounts onto the manifold should have a bearing or ball joint for the shaft to rotate around.

Also you are missing a metal battery tie down.

Personally I thought the throttle linkage on the weber was a pain. The pedal travel always seemed a bit long and my foot would end up in a weird position next to the tunnel to hit WOT. Although that may have just been the larger transmission tunnel as my car was once an automatic.

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Yeah it’s pretty bad, I ended up going with a universal kit that looks like the stock linkage. Driving and the throttle sticking isn’t very ideal.

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99006.104.htm

Yeah I have that on order also, it’s currently tied down with a bungy cord

Throttle isn’t too bad, this is the first one I’ve ever driven/owned so I don’t really know a difference.

Do you have any part cars down there?

89-240gl+t said:

Yeah it’s pretty bad, I ended up going with a universal kit that looks like the stock linkage. Driving and the throttle sticking isn’t very ideal.

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99006.104.htm

Yeah I have that on order also, it’s currently tied down with a bungy cord

Throttle isn’t too bad, this is the first one I’ve ever driven/owned so I don’t really know a difference.

Do you have any part cars down there?

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Nope. Nothing down here. I know of someone on the east side of town that occasionally sells parts from their car. Recently got rid of a B18 when they went to a B20. Other than that there isn't much in terms of availability. Although the Vintage Volvo Nuts group is pretty useful and seems to be where everyone around here with parts hoards hang out.

I remember my throttle being terrible when I first bought the car. It wouldn't engage the secondary at all. The automatic cars have a larger tunnel and swapping to a manual and putting a clutch pedal in there just makes everything a bit cramped. I sort of had to tilt my foot against the tunnel to get full travel.

Yeah I’m on that group, lots of helpful people there.

Even with the manual trans the pedal is super close to the trans tunnel, pretty much have to use the side of my foot as well. Isn’t too bad, just can’t wear bulky shoes while driving it

Redline sells a linkage kit for the downdraft carbs that's specific for Volvo OHV engines. The kit you bought is a universal one for a single DCOE.

hiperfauto said:

Redline sells a linkage kit for the downdraft carbs that's specific for Volvo OHV engines. The kit you bought is a universal one for a single DCOE.

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They look to be pretty close, what?s the main difference. The kit that I bought looks to be adjustable for what I need. The company I went with is somewhat local and need something pretty quick

The kit for Volvo comes with a linkage rod with an arm for the kickdown cable for automatics which you may or may not need. It also comes with the arm for the carb which is different for DCOE. The shaft is supposed to be smaller in diameter where it goes through the bushing on the body side bracket because the shaft will bind in the stock bushing but they haven't been coming that way lately. You may need to file/grind down the shaft of try to open up the bushing a little.

Redline is close to me and they have 1 kit in the local warehouse. I can get it tomorrow and ship it same day.

You can see the linkage bits in this pic.

I don’t need the whole kit, I already have a Weber 32/36, all I’m trying to do is get a new throttle linkage. My car is manual.

I know. I couldn't find a pic of the just the linkage kit.

hiperfauto said:

I know. I couldn't find a pic of the just the linkage kit.

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Yeah I looked and couldn't find anything. Already have this on order so going to make it work, im sure that it will be fine.



This is what the stock setup looks like, pretty similar so hopefully she'll do

Do you have the offset lever on the carb already? The kit you bought doesn't come with it and the lever it comes with won't fit the DGV shaft.



Also, the link rods in that kit are too long.

This is what it looks like on my car