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Getrag Swap - UPDATE - SHE'S IN!

riseosiris

Modem Killa
Joined
May 10, 2003
Location
Alameda, CA
And it has begun. I picked up my getrag 265 this morning. It came out of an '82 528 and I got it for around $350. I had to end up getting it from a normal salvage yard (where they just keep an inventory and give it to you) vs a pick and pull due to the severe lack of older bmw's in OH graveyards ;-) Oddly enough, my outer case is marked 262, but it is definitely a 5spd with a normal shift pattern (no CR for me!) When I got home, the lady went up on jackstands, the air compressor powered up and the M46 was free in a little over an hour (it's amazing how quick it comes out when you've done it a few times...not to mention with the aid of air tools). The adapter plate should be here tomorrow, and I hope to have everything squared away by next week (alas, I have fam coming into town tomorrow night - sunday, so the project is a big no-no for the weekend). I'll post pics and such as I go through it all.
-Lloyd

Edited to update
 
Last edited:
sweet dude, i gotta see this when you're done

I got a card for a place that came highly recommended for driveline mods:
G.L. Dunn & Son - Winchester, VA (i know its kinda far) They do machining, steel fabrication, welding, etc.. and would have no problem doing the addon for the front shaft
 
Sweet man! What clutch are you getting? The driveshaft sounds like the only real tricky part about this swap.

I need to talk to Clutchnet still, but plan is for a mix of Weezil's 6puck M3 disc and dbarton's dual spring pressure plate. As to the driveshaft, this seems like the easiest actually. It just needs to be lengthened. The Volvo tailshaft and BMW tailshaft are identical, as is the flexdisc (guibo)

tryckj?vel said:
I got a card for a place that came highly recommended for driveline mods:
G.L. Dunn & Son - Winchester, VA (i know its kinda far)

LOL...especially since I'm in Dayton OH now ;-) I'll be back for a few days running up to the 4th of July, so I'll shoot a post and maybe we can do a hooters run or something!
 
You did get that plate already didn't you? I sent it priority should have been there yesterday or perhaps today at the latest.
Sean

riseosiris said:
I need to talk to Clutchnet still, but plan is for a mix of Weezil's 6puck M3 disc and dbarton's dual spring pressure plate. As to the driveshaft, this seems like the easiest actually. It just needs to be lengthened. The Volvo tailshaft and BMW tailshaft are identical, as is the flexdisc (guibo)



LOL...especially since I'm in Dayton OH now ;-) I'll be back for a few days running up to the 4th of July, so I'll shoot a post and maybe we can do a hooters run or something!
 
Sean said:
You did get that plate already didn't you? I sent it priority should have been there yesterday or perhaps today at the latest.
Sean
Yep! Plate got here today. I must say it looks REALLY nice. I'm very pleased. A serious thanks for popping it in the mail quickly. I've already test fit it on both pieces, and the bushing is great. I'll start posting pics monday when I really get into it.
-Lloyd
 
Bit of a thread hijack,

ive been working on my swap today , basically i have an integral bellhousing from a 3 series (260) . Anyway pertinent things are that i need to fly cut at least 40mm off the bellhousing so that i can weld the 20 mm bit of volvo bellhousing back oon . just to check measurements i had volvo input shaft sticking out 16mm - the bmw one in 5 mm so i need to shorten the bellhousing by 21mm or thereabouts . ive checked for clutch clearance and the release arm will still be free even with a shortened bell/h .

what clutch do people use - the diameter works out the same so im assuming people are using BMW cluch plate - what about the pressure plate - this is for a stepped flywheel , and im looking to hold up to 350 hp , info would be nice.

also the the output yoke is smaller , so ill have to cobble something also , my m47 is shorter than an M46 - anybody know the difference ?

Where can i get the input bearing from ? ill need that before i cut anything for my template so the chap can reweld them together accurately

any info appreciated
 
WOOHOOO! She's in and working!!! :-D :-D :-D A month in the making and it is ALL worth it! The ratios are perfectly matched. For the first time in my ownership, 2nd can easily come with some spin :-D On to the install notes/pics:

First of all, I should make it clear that I accomplished the swap in my own garage, with minimal "fancy" tools, and no welder. I think the only tool I used that some might not have is a drill press and a tap set. Both of them are invaluable fabbing tools; I highly recommend them. Of course, my air ratchet made things much easier, but it is by no means necessary.

My transmission came out of an '85 535is. It is actually my second tranny as the first was stuck in gear, and therefore was replaced by the yard that sold it to me. The adapter plate came from Sean, along with the necessary bushing for the pilot bushing. I can attest to the quality of the CNC'ing and quick/easy shipping of the seller. I bought new bearings (T/O and pilot) and would highly recommend it while you're down there.

The clutch was purchased from Clutchnet. I have a 6-puck spring hub disc out of an M3.

volvoclutch_edited.JPG


The pressure plate is a modified Volvo unit with dual springs.
volvodualpp.JPG


The action is VERY stiff. I assumed it'd be firm like my M5, but this thing makes the BMW feel like the Volvo USED to feel in comparison. While I think it'll be okay for street, I'd say it's just barely so. However, I went this route as I'll soon start a build up of an AQ motor and didn't want to replace the clutch again. There is a little chatter on take up, but once rolling it's real positive. As I mentioned before, grabbing second is a whole new experience! I think the total for both was around $450.

For the mount, I just fabbed up a piece of heavy angle iron from Home Depot. Unfortunately I forgot to take a pic of the tranny installed, so you'll have to bear with me until I can get one up. Here is the mount itself:

volvogetragmount_edited.JPG


The two upper holes bolt onto unused holes in the back of the tranny, which are perfectly spaced and level with respect to the centerline. Through the single hole in the mount, an M10 bolt goes through the original Volvo mount on the crossmember. I believe I didn't move the crossmember from where it sat with the M46, but it may have shifted a whole. A word of advice: I had to remake the mount because I didn't pay close enough attention to the spacing of the lower hole with respect to the two which mount on the tranny, and the driveline was cocked by about 1-2degrees. MAJOR vibration. Additionally, my first mount (actually the one pictured) was a bit too wide. Instead of resting solely on the rubber volvo mount, the piece extended too far on either side and was hitting the two bolts which secure the volvo mount to the crossmember. MAJOR vibration. =o) Once these two issues were addressed, everything was A-OK and smooth as it ever was.

The shifter was pretty easy in retrospect:

volvoshiftmount_edited.JPG


volvoshiftmount2_edited.JPG


As you can see, I took the bmw shift tower, cut it in half, then extended it with angle iron. I then drilled/tapped the iron and bolted it to the original tower. I painted it all with rust-oleum for protection (no I know it's not pretty, but it gets the job done) IIRC the shifter had to be extended 5" for my 745.

The shift rod was actually the easiest:

volvoshifter_edited.JPG


The BMW rod is a round tube. I just cut it in half and found a tube that had the same ID as the BMW's OD. Then I just slipped them together, drilled/tapped and secured with bolts. I believe in this picture my original design, utilizing tension rods is appparent. However, it ultimately gave me too much slop in the shifter. Next to the shifter, you can see my UUC EVO3 short shifter. It's an amazing piece! However, it has made the shifts a bit "crunchy" and I'm not 100% sure I'd use it in the swap again. I'm sure it's amazing in a normal BMW, but with the extension, it's not as smooth.

Finally, the driveshaft was a piece of cake. It needed to be extended a little over 8", and it bolts right up to the tranny using either the Volvo or BMW guibo. I used the Volvo one because it was practically brand new. It cost about $100 at my local driveline shop. Naturally, measure it about 5 times before you take it in, so you can be absolutely sure!


All in all, it's been an well-worthwhile improvement. My total out of pocket is close to $1,000, although you could probably shave about $500 off if you were really frugal and reused your stock PP. I'll have more pics up in another day or to.

-Lloyd
 
congradulations! sweet pics! yeah.. for anyone else doing the swap using the guibo, i would recommend measuring the engine angle before removing the tranny.. so when you get the getrag in along with the driveshaft, making the tranny mount should be cake :-) just space it out till you get your desired angle..


-patg
 
916volvosport said:
congradulations! sweet pics! yeah.. for anyone else doing the swap using the guibo, i would recommend measuring the engine angle before removing the tranny.. so when you get the getrag in along with the driveshaft, making the tranny mount should be cake :-) just space it out till you get your desired angle..


-patg
Great tips there, I'll be sure to remember them.

Thanks for the writeup and pictures riseosiris, I like your fabbing jobs! And it's good to know that the driveline wasn't too big a deal, because I was kinda worried about it. I'm not sure when I'll get do my swap, I've got the tranny just need everything else. And my current clutch is slipping in 4th, and now a little bit in 3rd. But I'm broke!!!

John
 
Most major cities have a driveline shop that can lengthen the front half of the driveshaft and re-balance the assembly. Comparing the Getrag 265 to the M46/OD gives 8.25" longer driveshaft required. I've had the driveshaft lengthened for just under $165. As soon as the clutch form S.P.E.C. gets here, I'll get started on my project. I'll do a complete post when I'm done.
 
awesome job dude, how about that hooters gathering when you get back in september

side note: can you use the M3 (aftermarket specifically) flywheel and clutch as well? any of you E30 guys know what the bolt pattern is for it? or sizes? I would love to be able to use one of their aluminum flywheels and complete clutch assembly from one of the aftermarket companies
 
tryckj?vel said:
awesome job dude, how about that hooters gathering when you get back in september

side note: can you use the M3 (aftermarket specifically) flywheel and clutch as well? any of you E30 guys know what the bolt pattern is for it? or sizes? I would love to be able to use one of their aluminum flywheels and complete clutch assembly from one of the aftermarket companies
the sky's the limit. bolt pattern is different. you should be able to have it drilled for the volvo spec, but teeth on flywheel still won't match up :-\ better off just getting a john parker flywheel.. but hey.. money dictates how high the sky is

-patg
 
I have a really stupid question... Which throw out bearing are you guys using?

I'm about to order one, but I dunno which one to get!!

HELP!

Jordan
 
GTJordan said:
I have a really stupid question... Which throw out bearing are you guys using?

I'm about to order one, but I dunno which one to get!!

HELP!

Jordan

hey there, stupid. j/k. i used a manual clutch fork from a later 240.. along with the bellhousing.. the inside of the back of the bellhousing is flat, while the early ones had reinforcements that got in the way. the later clutch forks are thought to be flimsy, but they work for me. you can easily increase the opening to fit the bmw clutch fork with the later volvo clutch fork (86+ 240s)

-patg
 
This is going into a 740 with a Hydrolic Clutch. I was going to use the Hydrolic clutch arm (so its the short one) but the throw out bearing... I read to use the BMW one, but which BMW one? Or are you using a Volvo throwout bearing? I thought that wouldn't fit? And for some stupid reason I can't find the thread that has like 8 pages where Ben did it through out the thread so that I can see what he did exactly (I have all his old stuff minus the arm and throw out bearing)

Jordan
 
GTJordan said:
This is going into a 740 with a Hydrolic Clutch. I was going to use the Hydrolic clutch arm (so its the short one) but the throw out bearing... I read to use the BMW one, but which BMW one? Or are you using a Volvo throwout bearing? I thought that wouldn't fit? And for some stupid reason I can't find the thread that has like 8 pages where Ben did it through out the thread so that I can see what he did exactly (I have all his old stuff minus the arm and throw out bearing)

Jordan

you should be able to widen the opening of the volvo arm so the bmw one is able to slip in.. some spliced the bmw portion onto the volvo.. i like how peter linssen did his...he used a saab hydraulic release bearing and shimmed it out so it barely makes contact on the pressure plate.... requires custom lines though.....
 
riseosiris said:
WOOHOOO! She's in and working!!! :-D :-D :-D A month in the making and it is ALL worth it! The ratios are perfectly matched. For the first time in my ownership, 2nd can easily come with some spin :-D On to the install notes/pics:

For the mount, I just fabbed up a piece of heavy angle iron from Home Depot. Unfortunately I forgot to take a pic of the tranny installed, so you'll have to bear with me until I can get one up. Here is the mount itself:

volvogetragmount_edited.JPG


The two upper holes bolt onto unused holes in the back of the tranny, which are perfectly spaced and level with respect to the centerline. Through the single hole in the mount, an M10 bolt goes through the original Volvo mount on the crossmember. I believe I didn't move the crossmember from where it sat with the M46, but it may have shifted a whole. A word of advice: I had to remake the mount because I didn't pay close enough attention to the spacing of the lower hole with respect to the two which mount on the tranny, and the driveline was cocked by about 1-2degrees. MAJOR vibration. Additionally, my first mount (actually the one pictured) was a bit too wide. Instead of resting solely on the rubber volvo mount, the piece extended too far on either side and was hitting the two bolts which secure the volvo mount to the crossmember. MAJOR vibration. =o) Once these two issues were addressed, everything was A-OK and smooth as it ever was.

I'll have more pics up in another day or to.

-Lloyd

guys, thanks for bringing this post back up to the forefront, I'd been meening to ask riseosiris for an update on the install as well as more pics... now that I have an adapter plate coming my way...

well.,

hey dude, how does the tranny work so far? it's almost been a year since you made this post?

Can you post any pics on how the transmission crossmember bracket you fabricated
integrates between the tranny and xmember?

Thanks man.

Mike
 
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