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Old 08-07-2017, 01:30 PM   #26
Jimmy E. James
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Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
I did listen. You yourself said you were guessing. I'm just saying I'm not guessing.
Never said anything about guessing friend - go back and read the post(s)

I said "NO" guessing to it
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:31 PM   #27
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You can't shave enough off a head to make it an interference engine (well, guess you could but then you couldn't use the head)
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Never said anything about guessing friend - go back and read the post(s)

I said "NO" guessing to it
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:38 PM   #28
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So now we need to get into an English lessons - word meanings change depending on context

So here you go, I'll make the statement you're chewing on easier:

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Originally Posted by Jimmy E. James View Post
You can't shave enough off a head to make it an interference engine (well, you could, but then you couldn't use the head)
Any other questions just PM me

Easy to see why you're behind the counter, autozone or o'reilly?

Slow day?
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:42 PM   #29
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3 posts with "info" and 2 pages of bullsh*t.

Good work. Has anyone found out if the OP has blown up their car yet?

OP... are you sure you're encountering valves to piston interference, and not just compression? Does it spin freely with the spark plugs out? Have you shimmed it or better yet, measured for shims on the spots you can?
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:47 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Jimmy E. James View Post
So now we need to get into an English lessons - word meanings change depending on context

So here you go, I'll make the statement you're chewing on easier:



Any other questions just PM me

Easy to see why you're behind the counter, autozone or o'reilly?

Slow day?
Let me ask you this way. What makes a head unusable by shaving it?
I'm also curious to know why you think "turbo heads are fragile"?

And I don't really work behind a counter and never have, I'm actually retired. It's just something JV used to say to me when he was trying to insult me. I always thought it was funny so I put it in my sig.
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:54 PM   #31
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Shave it too much and the cam belt's too long she said. How you gonna fix that parts boy? I'll tell ya, pinto belt. Everybody knows that.. Ha. Maybe you cranked your cam caps too tight and the cam is binding stuck and has nuttin' to do with valves hitting pistons. Just my input.
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Old 08-07-2017, 03:20 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by EivlEvo View Post
3 posts with "info" and 2 pages of bullsh*t.

Good work. Has anyone found out if the OP has blown up their car yet?

OP... are you sure you're encountering valves to piston interference, and not just compression? Does it spin freely with the spark plugs out? Have you shimmed it or better yet, measured for shims on the spots you can?
WTF do you mean with "'info'"? Spec was provided per the manufacturer of the damn cam:



duration/lsa/lift/valve opening spec at crank TDC
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Old 08-07-2017, 03:31 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
WTF do you mean with "'info'"? Spec was provided per the manufacturer of the damn cam:

duration/lsa/lift/valve opening spec at crank TDC
Yeah, if it's on the internet you know it's "right"

Chill, "Harland"
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Old 08-07-2017, 03:49 PM   #34
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I would see your point if you cut the head .060" and put an M cam in it with the pathetic lift it has, but if you cut the head and still have a cam with any kind of lift, yeah, it'll still be usable AND be interference. If you have .030" from valve to piston on a bone stock setup (SWAG, varies with cam obviously), you trim .035" off the head, yeah, it's interference. If you trim off .020" (min-spec on the 530) and go from a stock head gasket at .049" compressed to a tight squish gasket at .030", then it's interference, but the head sure as hell ain't a door stop.

IPD cam in mine right now, head was trimmed .010" (still .010" above min-spec), block was decked .005" to get desired piston height, .035" cometic, mine is no doubt interference.
Gary if chamber is 12mm deep, and gasket is 1mm and piston zero deck at TDC sounds like there is minimum of 13mm or .511-.512" from crown to valve..

Shave the head 060/1.5mm and go to a .030 or .0,76mm thick gasket abd that is now .442" or 11.22mm valve to crown>>

Now look at this:


Notice where intake opens..And where it closes..midway is theoretical max lift..Do the math yourself..You'll see max life is in that example 105 degrees AFTER TDC.
Where's the piston when the crank has rotated 105 degrees past TDC?

The piston is way the fawk down the bore at 105 ATDC..

How much valve lift at TDC? maybe 1 to maybe max 2mm at TDC...


Sure you can put the rubber band on wrong and break a belt but there's always a scenario where by carefully fawking up things damage can occur...

But piston to valve contact is really hardly anybody here---aside from me who even builds really nasty snortin n.a. motors around here?---needs to obsess on endlessly for years and years and years...

16V yes but 8v meh.
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Old 08-08-2017, 12:32 AM   #35
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I get it John, I was just trying to explain to someone how shaving a head just a little can make it interference should the belt snap. You posted the numbers for the head which I didn't have off-hand. so in your example, shave .060 and run a .030, that puts it at .442 clearance, with a cam running .468 lift. Hmm, sounds like that would become an interference motor, even if the head was only shaved .040".

That whole physics thing escapes some people I suspect.
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Old 08-08-2017, 12:36 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
WTF do you mean with "'info'"? Spec was provided per the manufacturer of the damn cam:



duration/lsa/lift/valve opening spec at crank TDC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy E. James View Post
Yeah, if it's on the internet you know it's "right"

Chill, "Harland"
So you complain about specs, then someone posts actual specs from the oe website, the people that MADE the cam, and you say it's not trustworthy since it's on the internet?

You also need to chill a little dude. I'm not trying to get into a pissing match, but if this thread does continue down the road you and a couple others are trying to steer it, I will delete posts or lock it down.
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Old 08-08-2017, 12:49 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
I get it John, I was just trying to explain to someone how shaving a head just a little can make it interference should the belt snap. You posted the numbers for the head which I didn't have off-hand. so in your example, shave .060 and run a .030, that puts it at .442 clearance, with a cam running .468 lift. Hmm, sounds like that would become an interference motor, even if the head was only shaved .040".

That whole physics thing escapes some people I suspect.
Lotta crap going on all at the same time and words all happen letter-by-letter..Always hard to logiically or clearly 'splain a dynamic process..

But specifically to the chance of valve to piston interference or valve to valve interference (huh? yeah can't happen with 8 line valve--an advantage for TB level guys who want to try crazy stuff) is miniscule EVEN if the rubber band goes twang..The valve just closes And sometimes (done it) the piston just nudges the valve closed Piston going up is "chasing the exhaust valve"..that's the scariest thing but all its done those times I've done it is slam the valve straight up an closes it and leaves a REAL scary mark in the carbon...

I looked to refresh memory---that's how you remember things (or how I remember things anyway)---check it again and again, and looked at some cams like I use in n.a. builds in the past..and even the baddest ass type things had "Lift at TDC" of maybe 3.2mm...Nuthing to worry about..

I think it is time to lay to rest the oooooh scary boogieman stories about 8v inline valve motors "becoming" interference in normal use or even "normal fawk ups" like being 1 or 2 toofies off on the rubber band.. or---and this is stretch--over revving and valve float...

Again 16v that's another story and with hotter cams for 215-230-240 hp builds I'm like
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Old 08-08-2017, 12:52 AM   #38
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So you complain about specs, then someone posts actual specs from the oe website, the people that MADE the cam, and you say it's not trustworthy since it's on the internet?

You also need to chill a little dude. I'm not trying to get into a pissing match, but if this thread does continue down the road you and a couple others are trying to steer it, I will delete posts or lock it down.
Actually, if he doesn't tone it down to a level I call civil, I'm going to delete him for a few days. Had I been on my PC instead of my I-Phone earlier it would have already happened.
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Old 08-12-2017, 06:41 PM   #39
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Guys I'm confused... so it seems like most people who run the ipd turbo cam don't run it at "0" they run it normally anywhere from -4* retarded to +4* advanced

Anyways I did get the cam installed with the stock cam timing and tbh I couldn't really tell the car had a different power band.


So Harlard recommended I run the car at -4* retarded...

Here comes the laughable noob questions...


How the heck do you make the cam -4* retarded??????

I have this adjustable ipd cam gear here and tbh I guess I don't know how to use it.

would advancing the cam timing +/- 4* mean I just need to make the cam gear 3 teeth off?
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:20 PM   #40
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That gear can only change the timing on the increments noted on the gear, so it cannot do 4* retarded but it can do 5* retarded.

To change it to 5* retarded remove the gear from the camshaft and make sure the pin on the cam goes into the hole with the "-5" line.
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:39 PM   #41
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That gear can only change the timing on the increments noted on the gear, so it cannot do 4* retarded but it can do 5* retarded.

To change it to 5* retarded remove the gear from the camshaft and make sure the pin on the cam goes into the hole with the "-5" line.
How would I go 4* retarded? would I need a different cam gear?
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:45 PM   #42
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How would I go 4* retarded? would I need a different cam gear?
Yes you would need a fully adjustable gear with inner and outer halves bolted together.

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how psi a stock can support?

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Old 08-12-2017, 08:12 PM   #43
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Yes you would need a fully adjustable gear with inner and outer halves bolted together.

hmm okay. I'm gonna try 2.5* advanced. would I turn the cam gear CW or CCW to make it advanced?
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:12 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by DaBossk View Post
Guys I'm confused... so it seems like most people who run the ipd turbo cam don't run it at "0" they run it normally anywhere from -4* retarded to +4* advanced

Anyways I did get the cam installed with the stock cam timing and tbh I couldn't really tell the car had a different power band.


So Harlard recommended I run the car at -4* retarded...

Here comes the laughable noob questions...


How the heck do you make the cam -4* retarded??????

I have this adjustable ipd cam gear here and tbh I guess I don't know how to use it.

would advancing the cam timing +/- 4* mean I just need to make the cam gear 3 teeth off?
I highly advise against you running this one. Get a unit from STS or Yoshifab per Ken's suggestion above.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:22 PM   #45
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Reasoning Harald, just curious.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:41 PM   #46
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The fully adjustable gear would be even more confusing to OP
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Old 08-12-2017, 09:35 PM   #47
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Following this as I'm using the IPD turbo cam and a similar cam gear.
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