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efan conversion not working

You can disagree all you want. Your mechanical fan never turns much more than 1,500 RPM when you are driving in stop and go traffic. Once your car is moving more than 25 MPH the mechanical fan is not really moving the air anyway. The air is simply being rammed through the radiator due to the high pressure zone in front of the car. You're envisioning what is happening when your car is sitting there in neutral with the engine reved up, not what is actually happening when it is being driven.

We are not talking some theoretical powerlpant here. The discussion is about stock parts 240 cooling system vs. one of the Volvo electric fans.
 
JohnMc said:
Dunno, if you click on 'high' it's really blasting air. And it can do that sitting still, at idle.
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Oh yeah, most definitely at idle the high speed will move more air:lol: but a fully engaged efan at 6000rpm moves quuuiiitteee a bit of air.. idk, I'm not disagreeing that the 940 efan is great, but only if it's set up properly using good sensors. The mechanical fan is idiot proof.

They both have their advantages IMO.
 
^^

Yep. My tractor has a mechanical fan and I'm glad it does. It almost never sits idling. It is usually creating close to it's 25 HP rating and moving no more than 3-5 MPH. It generates a lot of heat. :)
 
2manyturbos said:
^^

Yep. My tractor has a mechanical fan and I'm glad it does. It almost never sits idling. It is usually creating close to it's 25 HP rating and moving no more than 3-5 MPH. It generates a lot of heat. :)
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Sarcasm? The best of both worlds is a mechanical and an electric fan. Just like 91+ 240s. My wagon can sit st a dead stop in 90F weather and never see 200F coolant temps. The mechanical fan actually does move quite a bit of air at idle, then the electric pusher fan dissipates heat from the condenser. I've never actually had abnormally high coolant temps with just the mechanical fan engaged at idle. Not even once.
 
Yeah, nothing wrong with the mech fan. Never had an issue with it on either car, even with the missing shroud. I just wanted to try an efan for the cleaner engine bay and possibly slightly more power.
 
Cwazywazy said:
Yeah, nothing wrong with the mech fan. Never had an issue with it on either car, even with the missing shroud. I just wanted to try an efan for the cleaner engine bay and possibly slightly more power.
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Lol you should definitely have an issue without a shroud. I took mine off my wagon and saw temps above 200F with the AC on.
 
PromiseRing said:
Lol you should definitely have an issue without a shroud. I took mine off my wagon and saw temps above 200F with the AC on.
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Haven't fixed the ac or driven it on a really hot day yet, because the AC is still empty. I never saw the gauge go over halfway though. (And yes, the faker board is bypassed.)

I don't even have the scoop. I did put one on, but it flew off the first time I drove it on the highway.
 
2manyturbos said:
An electric fan moves way more air than a mechanical fan does when you actually need the air to be moved by a fan such as in traffic. Then, when you're out at road speed and don't need a fan it shuts off and has no parasitic loss. That is why you do not see mechanical fans on any modern cars.
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I'm talking moving air past the turbo as well...
 
PromiseRing said:
Sarcasm? The best of both worlds is a mechanical and an electric fan. Just like 91+ 240s. My wagon can sit st a dead stop in 90F weather and never see 200F coolant temps. The mechanical fan actually does move quite a bit of air at idle, then the electric pusher fan dissipates heat from the condenser. I've never actually had abnormally high coolant temps with just the mechanical fan engaged at idle. Not even once.
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No sarcasm. That is an appropriate cooling system for a tractor. Simple and efficient for the way a tractor wheel type tractor is operated. There is no AC, no heater, no stereo to create an electrical load. It does exactly what it should do.

90 degrees out really isn't all that warm. My 940 doesn't even turn the cooling fan on under those conditions. When the AC is on, the cooling fan is always on. It is how the system is wired.
 
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Your 940 will turn the cooling fan on regardless of temperature if there's no airflow over the radiator. It's common knowledge by now that lh2.4 doesn't turn on the efan until 200+ degrees. If you're happy with that then so be it. It's still too warm for an iron block/aluminum head motor to me. That motor will wear faster than a mechanical fan car.
 
PromiseRing said:
Your 940 will turn the cooling fan on regardless of temperature if there's no airflow over the radiator. .
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?
how does it decide to turn on the fan? Does it have an airflow sensor?:wtf:

Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
An electric fan moves way more air than a mechanical fan does when you actually need the air to be moved by a fan such as in traffic. Then, when you're out at road speed and don't need a fan it shuts off and has no parasitic loss. That is why you do not see mechanical fans on any modern cars.
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Modern cars with longitudinal engines are getting more rare, and packaging concerns aside, mechanical fans are getting rare.
Last one I have is a 1997 Land cruiser.
As for "parasitic loss" when the engine is cool, the blades can be held back with a pinky, neglible loss.
hydraulic clutches are awesome. Directly driven engine fans, not so much.
Traffic is not the issue, heat is. When the engine is hot, that fan blows hard, when in subzero traffic, it doesn't do much at all.
I agree Electric has many pros, but most modern mech fans are good too.
I have a dream where mech and elec fans work hand in hand without strife, lets all get along.

Perhaps an interracial marriage of a mechanical fan and a thermostat contolled electric clutch from an AC compressor? :-P
 
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PromiseRing said:
Your 940 will turn the cooling fan on regardless of temperature if there's no airflow over the radiator. It's common knowledge by now that lh2.4 doesn't turn on the efan until 200+ degrees. If you're happy with that then so be it. It's still too warm for an iron block/aluminum head motor to me. That motor will wear faster than a mechanical fan car.
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No it won't. There is nothing to tell it to turn on the fan other than the ECT talking to the ECU. Most 940s won't even turn in the fan when idling because the radiator is so large.

You need to study a bit on internal combustion engines. The difference between 180 and 200 degrees isn't going to account for more wear. What it will do is result in better fuel atomization and burn. It is actually a good thing. There is a reason engineers set the operating temperatures of engines higher than the used to.
 
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2manyturbos said:
No it won't. There is nothing to tell it to turn on the fan other than the ECT talking to the ECU. Most 940s won't even turn in the fan when idling because the radiator is so large.

You need to study a bit on internal combustion engines. The difference between 180 and 200 degrees isn't going to account for more wear. What it will do is result in better fuel atomization and burn. It is actually a good thing. There is a reason engineers set the operating temperatures of engines higher than the used to.
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:uh: yes it will. Your efan will come on at -10 degrees if the coolant gets warm enough.

And the fan doesn't come on at 200, it's more like low speed at 215, isn't it?
 
apachechef said:
That still makes no sense.
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I'm sorry you can't understand. If the coolant gets hot enough, the efan kicks on via the ECT (or a temp switch on other models). What's not to understand? Ambient temperature plays a small roll. Go take off your efan or mechanical fan when it's 30 degrees out. Let your car idle for 20 minutes and tell me how that goes for you.

Radiators function best when there's airflow over the core (you know, from like a cooling fan or something?)
 
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