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Old 07-07-2019, 08:37 PM   #1
kcpaz
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Default Rear sway bar to clear 8.8 axle

Is there an aftermarket rear sway bar that is known to clean an 8.8 diff cover? My OEM bar doesn't clear, and to make matters worse, I'm running a cast aluminum, aftermarket cover. I don't want to roll the dice only to find out that an aftermarket bar won't fit. Or, should I just omit the bar entirely?
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Old 07-07-2019, 08:43 PM   #2
pwschuh
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I had to get a rear sway bar modified (by mikep) to clear my 9.0 diff. It's not a difficult mod to lengthen the side bars so it sits farther back. You could go without, but some bar in back is usually better (depending upon your other suspension mods).
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Old 07-07-2019, 08:50 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by pwschuh View Post
I had to get a rear sway bar modified (by mikep) to clear my 9.0 diff. It's not a difficult mod to lengthen the side bars so it sits farther back. You could go without, but some bar in back is usually better (depending upon your other suspension mods).
I thought about modifying the side arms to make them longer, but doing that would essentially make the "spring rate" softer... but I guess you're right, a slightly softer bar would be better than no bar at all.
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Old 07-07-2019, 09:25 PM   #4
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I thought about modifying the side arms to make them longer, but doing that would essentially make the "spring rate" softer... but I guess you're right, a slightly softer bar would be better than no bar at all.
wrong. no rear bar and stiffer springs works best....most people who are running an 8.8 have already thrown the rear bar away.
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Old 07-07-2019, 09:45 PM   #5
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What spring rate makes up for no rear sway bar? Putting a Ford 9" in, I thought it would clear but this thread makes me wonder... not trying to threadjack Op, just get a bit more info on this. Lengthening the swaybar mounting a couple inches is not a good idea then?

Our roads are terrible so I can't see how putting in super stiff springs would be a good idea
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Old 07-08-2019, 10:20 AM   #6
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The only problem I had fitting the RSB with my 8.8 was that I welded the brackets a smidge too close and had to hammer it into place. I've since removed it, car does better at autocross without it. Now my panhard bar was a different story, I had to clearance the stock steel cover with a hammer and bend the panhard bar in a 20T press so that it would clear.
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Old 07-08-2019, 11:29 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
wrong. no rear bar and stiffer springs works best....most people who are running an 8.8 have already thrown the rear bar away.
in your opinion does this apply to everything or are you picturing an autocross course? I did not prefer my car with no bar and more spring on the roads out here, but I can understand why you guys like it in an autocross setting. I am pulling in a 19mm rear bar to try out as I do think the 25mm is too much.
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Old 07-08-2019, 02:33 PM   #8
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You could maybe add a plate like this and mount the bar lower?

https://www.240turbo.com/specsheet245.html#dualswaybars
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Old 07-08-2019, 04:53 PM   #9
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Some good info here about how what's going on up front impacts choices made at the rear -- http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=343758
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Old 07-29-2019, 09:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcpaz View Post
I thought about modifying the side arms to make them longer, but doing that would essentially make the "spring rate" softer... but I guess you're right, a slightly softer bar would be better than no bar at all.
No, the spring rate is the same. It is calculated by the length of the arm it is bolted to, no matter where it is. Front or rear. The axle to pivot length of the trailing arm would have to get longer to decrease its rate.
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