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Old 08-25-2016, 12:10 AM   #1
larrybirdisclear
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Default '92 740 LM7/4L60E Swap

hey everybody

a few months ago, i bought this '92 740, NA Regina, AT off of my boss. 99% rust free, inspected, 160k on the odo (but it doesn't work, so who really knows). crack-free dash, blue cloth interior, and a third row! this is my first brick, so i just drove it until july. a/c system leaks and wasnt blowing cold, so that got a bit brutal here in texas.





gratuitous beach sunset camping photo:



then, i got this off of craigslist:



complete pull-out 5.3 drive-by-cable LM7 attached to a 2WD 4L60E out of an '01 suburban. "89k original miles" - who knows. complete accessories, wiring harness, ECU, and fuse block. went back and forth on whether or not to buy a DBW version, but after a few months of searching for complete engine/trans setups, i just got impatient and pulled the trigger. $1900 later and a sketchy 3-hr drive back to austin, this was sitting in my driveway.

over two or so leisurely weekend wrenching sessions, got the volvo motor out. if anyone wants it, i'm in the austin area - pm me. no bites in nearly three weeks, so i think i'll just junk the trans, disassemble the motor, and either save it for a future project (16VT?) or make a coffee table out of the block.



a few weeks earlier, i got yoshifab's gen. 3 SBC/T56 swap kit. no, im not doing a T56, because i dont have a spare 2 grand. we'll see in a few days how the trans. mount adapters work with the 4L60E. really nice kit - between the high quality welds and powder coating, these mounts are the nicest things on the volvo at the moment.



here are the trans. crossmember adapters. not sure if the center trans mount plate adapter piece is supposed to be as photo'd or flipped upside down - it fits both ways, so i'll flip it upside down if necessary to get the output shaft where i want it



the kit calls for C6 vette manifolds (center exit) instead of the truck manifolds (rear exit), so i picked up a pair w/ gaskets off of craigslist locally for $100. also using f-body motor mounts per yoshifab guidelines - autozone, about 80-100 for the pair. new plugs/wires. also had do get an egr block-off plate for the truck manifold as the C6 manifolds do not have an egr system - $25 off of amazon. two of the exhaust manifold bolts were broken when i got the motor. one came out with an easy out socket, but the other was broken below-flush with the head. went through a handfull of drill bits and extractor bits before i gave up. if it leaks a lot, i'll pull the head once its in the car. nearly lost my mind over that d*$m bolt.



it rained for just about the last two weeks, so i didnt get much done on the car. yesterday, pulled out a 2.5lb hammer and started clearancing. following the jagsthatrun suggestions for clearancing. sure doesn't look pretty, and i've got a lot more hammering to do. my neighbors love me, im sure.



and that's where i am today! this is my first swap, so im just figuring it out as i go. doing this in my driveway. also moving at the end of september, so it's gotta be done soon!

engine wiring harness - got a friend of a friend to strip it down and reflow it to be mounted on the driver's side. he also redid the fuse block to get rid of the monster GM stock fuse block and use a much smaller block. gonna have to get pigtails for the passenger o2 sensor because the connector was crushed when i got the motor. $20 for male/female connectors.

volvo wiring harness - no idea what i'm gonna do here. i can't find a good wiring diagram, and im not even sure what i could accomplish with a good one. just going to leave everything in place until i get a better idea of what i can remove.

fuel system - probably going to use a single AEM 320 lph in-tank pump. havent pulled the pump assembly yet, so im not sure what fitment is going to be like. a coworker installed the AEM pump in his 242 w/ a bosch fuel system, mounted in tank and using 12ga wire. just had to dremel the pump assembly for a bit of clearance. not sure what gauge wire is on the regina in-tank pump stock (if you know plz let me know!), but i'm expecting to have to rewire for the new pump. going to reuse the stock lines. dont know a whole lot about the GM fuel system, keep reading about a corvette filter regulator, but who knows.

intake manifold - sticking with the high rise truck manifold for now. makes good power, and LS6 setups are a lil pricey and require different fuel rails, injectors, and pigtails for the injectors. praying that it'll fit under the stock hood, but planning on getting a junkyard hood to cut a hole in and make some sweet janky scoop. rattle can black. swedish panda?

trans. cooler lines - going with flexible lines. using a 1/4 NPS to -6AN fitting adapter on the trans itself. these will connect up to 45 degree hose end fittings. then braided stainless lines, maybe nylon, not really sure. those lines are pricey, so if anyone has some wisdom on a more budget friendly alternative, i'm all ears. likely going to work in an auxiliary trans cooler later.

engine cooling - stock 740 radiator. probably. i've got an electric fan on a switch on the dash (previous owner hijacked the fog light switch for the fan, worked pretty well in 100+ degree heat w/ the b230, so fingers crossed)

a/c - its starting to cool down, so that'll be a project for another year. going to leave the compressor on the motor

power steering - i've read that the LM7 uses the same pump as the b230. so, probably just gonna make some custom lines and hope it works!

driveshaft - custom, of course. probably going to keep the two-piece driveshaft.

rear diff - stock, until it blows up.

Last edited by larrybirdisclear; 08-25-2016 at 12:16 AM..
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:10 PM   #2
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got my wiring harness back today. apparently the harness itself came off of a canadian spec 4wd vehicle. the o2 sensor connectors used in the states are a square type (2x2 pin), and canadian spec versions use inline type (1x4 pin). whole lot of 4wd wiring, and i've definitely got a 2wd tailshaft on the 4l60, so it looks like this "low mile" pullout is a bid of a hodge podge. great.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:26 PM   #3
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:59 AM   #4
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I used a car ps pump, and just welded the pressure fitting from the volvo rack to the gm line (brand new from the parts store for like..$30 or something). the return line to the pump I just trimmed the line coming off the rack.
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Old 12-05-2018, 12:02 AM   #5
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two-year thread bump! car still isnt finished, but it does move under its own power. i'll review and show photos of progress to the best of my ability.

my goal with the remainder of this thread is to share detail on things that either didn't go smoothly, or required some hard-to-find knowledge (ie wiring diagrams) to complete. i owe a lot to TB and other forums for getting me through this project, so holler if you want more detail on something.

mounting engine/trans:

so i knew the trans mount adapters weren't going to work (they're for a t56), but i was disappointed with the fitment of the motor mounts. the truck oil pan contacted the subframe and sat the motor lopsided. i ended up making aluminum spacers to bring the driver's side up by 1/2" and the passenger side up by 1/4". this let the truck pan clear the subframe and have the motor sit flat. i talked with yoshifab and we're not positive whats wrong - i'm leaning towards the f-body clamshell motor mounts, but who knows for sure.

passenger side spacer


drivers side spacer


oil pan subframe clearance


total firewall poundage. sanded and rattle can'd


trans mount


more trans mount

Last edited by larrybirdisclear; 12-05-2018 at 01:23 AM..
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Old 12-05-2018, 12:16 AM   #6
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fuel system:

so the 740 was originally a regina car, so i replaced the single in-tank pump with an AEM320. got some special fuel-submersible crimp connectors so that i could reuse the stock wiring through the factory fuel tank assembly and run that to the provided pig tail for the pump. used a short section of fuel-submersible hose too, purchased at a brutally expensive $/ft.

ran 10ga. wire from the fuel pump relay in the engine bay, through the firewall, down the a-pillar, along the door sills, over the rear wheel, down to the fuel tank hat.

reused stock fuel hoses to the fuel filter. stock fuel filter (although new). used an adapter fitting to -6an hose, to a 3/8 90* quick disconnect, right to the stock truck pressure rail. return line used a 5/16 90* quick disconnect, back to the stock return line. so far working well without leaks.

when i tried to fire the motor for the first time, it was having a tough time - running on 3 cylinders probs. sent the old crusty injectors to injectorrx in houston for a rebuild. put them back in, fixed a few vacuum leaks, and it starts/idles great (in open loop speed density for now).




Last edited by larrybirdisclear; 12-05-2018 at 01:37 AM..
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Old 12-05-2018, 12:30 AM   #7
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auto trans fluid/cooling

used adapter fittings out of the trans cooler fittings to 120* -6an fittings, all the way around the engine bay to the derale cooler. made some janky brackets out of some sheet aluminum. i got an improved racing trans. oil thermostat, 165*, with barbed fittings that i will be putting inline with the trans. cooler lines.



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Old 12-05-2018, 01:11 AM   #8
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wiring!

removal of stock stuff:

my strategy here was to remove whatever engine bay wiring that i could, clean stuff up a bit. at the time i did not have a wiring service manual, which i later got and was a fool for not getting one earlier. but here, i reassembled the front end, hooked up everything i could, and isolated the wires that could be removed by process of elimination. slowly de-pinned connectors at the firewall/strut tower supports. there were a lot of wires that i ended up leaving - they passed through the firewall and went all over the place under the dash. seemed like too much effort, so i just zip tied them out of the way.

before


after



setting up the new ECU:

i can't seem to find my photos of this. if anyone needs i can snag some. hopefully i'll remember to swing back and add some in later.

1. battery terminals: got 2ga. wire for the starter and 4ga. wire for the alternator. crimped these two together in a single straight connector that i got from grainger. used a hammer crimping tool, took a few good whacks with a 4lb. hammer to make a solid crimp. seems solid. crimped a lug onto the battery cable, bent the lug 90*, and routed the cable down below the engine mount, above the subframe - tucks away nicely from exhaust heat. the alternator wire goes along the subframe below the accessory drive and routes up just in front of the power steering return fitting on the pump, up to the stock truck location high-mount alternator. another smaller lug crimped onto the cable here. i reused the stock negative battery terminal, but will likely be changing that out for a homemade neg. battery terminal for better fitment around the exhaust. the stock ground cable splits into one large and one small wire - i grounded the large wire to the block and the small to the frame rail - both sanded clean/clear of any paint.

2. other grounds: my engine harness is a reworked stock unit. done locally, kinda janky and nothing to look at, but seemingly functional. one ground wire connects to the subframe, and two ground wires are connected to the drivers-side strut tower brace. i figure harness grounds will vary depending on who does your harness.

3. ecu power: i have a short section of cable to run to a small single post junction. from there, i used an inline 30A fuse to provide power to the ECU via 12ga. (maybe 10ga.?) wire. lt1swap.com wiring instructions are easy to follow for this.

plundering the insides of the dash (featuring abw einhorn):


4. starter/key on power: here is where the factory wiring service manual became 100% necessary. traced wires from stock ign. switch and crimped up to my gm harness, per lt1swap.com. ran the starter signal wire through the neutral safety switch on my lokar shifter, which i'll cover in a separate post (i'll add some pictures of the necessary wiring diagrams from the service manual soon)

will continue the below when i can find my notepad with the diagrams i drew...

5. tcc brake switch:

6. obd-ii port:

7. reverse switch:

plus more!

Last edited by larrybirdisclear; 12-05-2018 at 01:19 AM..
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:10 AM   #9
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Awesome to see this thread come back to life! This is my upcoming project so I’ll be paying close attention. Does the trans crossmember spacers and mount come as a part of the Yoshifab set up or did you source it elsewhere??
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Old 12-31-2018, 03:27 PM   #10
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odd that the mounts didn't fit, mine worked fine in my 940 (same x member), but I did have to notch one a little to clear the steering knuckle or something there abouts.

I am thinking about spacing mine up a bit, but not because of engine to cross member clearance, but rather down pipe to cross member clearance. I'd be spacing out the whole subframe though, not just the engine mounts.

glad to see the progress! keep it up!
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Old 07-16-2019, 04:26 PM   #11
larrybirdisclear
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dead thread bump!

it runs! in fully daily-duty now. if anyone need motivation to get their own swap projects done, let me tell you just how much fun it is. burnouts and donuts all around. the 4.11 gears in the stock diff w/ the locker means that this thing hooks and GOES. running around 3000RPM on the highway at 75MPH, which makes 70-90 acceleration extremely fun. sounds great.

swapped in an LS1 intake manifold, injectors, fuel rails, and full accessory system. reflashed the ecu with HPTuners. i will try to document the changes that i made in HPTuners for these changes, as well as the initial first-start tune that was on the engine with the truck manifold.





used it to haul a new (to me) engine for my other habit - aircooled vw's! the wagon has overload springs in the rear and handled the extra weight like a champ. used it to move this past weekend too - nothing like hauling a queen size mattress down the highway in a volvo with the thrum of a v8!



theres a lot of info that still needs to be added to this thread to cover the remaining details of the swap. life has been busy recently and shows no signs of slowing, so info will be slow to appear. if anyone is doing a similar swap and has questions, lemme know and i'll try to send some helpful detail
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:33 AM   #12
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well dang, no one else has responded. :golf clap:

been toying with doing an na swap in a 240, but have not made up my mind. gotta fix the trans and lifters in the 940 first.
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:06 AM   #13
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Neat
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Old 09-26-2019, 06:30 PM   #14
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Hi, I know the post is a bit old, but could you possibly take some photos and/or explain what you did to make the downpipes/exhaust work please? Working on something similar now. Thanks



Chris
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Old 09-26-2019, 09:09 PM   #15
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sweet build!
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Old 09-28-2019, 09:34 PM   #16
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Nice to see another Volvo swap completed and another air cooled vw fan. Enjoy!
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Old 09-29-2019, 09:06 AM   #17
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Turned out nicely!
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Old 09-29-2019, 01:56 PM   #18
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Nice. It needs a fuel door. Or, is that part of the sleeper look?
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