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Old 06-01-2009, 02:18 PM   #176
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Originally Posted by MrSteve View Post
If his chips can handle the blast furnace coming out of a 13c at 22 psi, I am duly impressed.
Ha ha ha...... Yeah, the 13c is pretty far off the island by 22 psi. A 15g at 12 psi is a better bet.
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Old 06-02-2009, 02:24 AM   #177
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I was trying to hit 28 psi so I could be as cool as that other kid! It was a cool night and it was making 18 psi initially. As it got cooler and we let the engine cool down, I had him go out again and he said it hit 22 psi. I sorta lol'd, but the car did go quite quickly and didn't make any funny noises, so yeah. We were using a needle valve, but without any preload adjustment on the actuator, it was blowing the gate open at higher RPM, so we pretty much had the needle valve closed to get the 18ish psi to hold. This led to poor boost control (not that I was surprised...we just wanted to go to the track and the needle valve was the best I could do). He bought a Lower Shores MBC and now it is running quite happily at 15 psi. But Mike's chips handled it all in stride.
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:04 PM   #178
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Well I cant comment on mileage or anything of that nature because I just installed both chips last night. The car feels like a totally different animal with these things in. Ive got a little over 100 miles on the setup already and it feels smooth as hell, the off boost drivability is out of this world, I can take the 30 mile trip to work on the highway without ever having to hit boost. It also cleared out my CEL for the EGR sensor (which is awesome). The boost comes on real smooth and the car just rockets off, and it has next to nothing done. setup is as follows

94 940 turbo
2 1/4 inch catless sidepipe
stock 13C at 16 psi
IPD cam about 3 deg advanced
cone filter and heatshield
TLAO chips

Next up is a 15G w/ super 60 wheel
browntops and 4 bar FPR
3 inch turboback
3"AMM
NPR IC
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:17 AM   #179
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GIGGIDY!!! The car's finally happy, AFR's are in check, and 12psi is, well, fun. Boost will go up soon, along with the bigger AMM and injectors, along with some track times.

Nice work Mike!

p.s. No ping currently with 90-ish ambients and cali's crap-gas.
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Old 07-13-2009, 02:32 AM   #180
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We chipped Cecilie240's car with both fuel and ezk chips.

563 ECU (from turbo car w/egr)
146 EZK (from N/A engine)

Engine specs:
B230F 1989
13C turbo
940T downpipe modded for 240
940T IC
940T injectors

I waited untill posting in this thread, since we had a problem with excessive rich mixture (which happend at the same time as we chipped it).
Eg. the thing was that we where running on E85 and when we first ran the +t, we still used the N/A ECU. It was bogging under WOT, I felt it was a rich bog. However, the rich fuelmixture from E85 is not very visible (no black smoke from e85).

So, when we then went on premium fuel and the FT/FK ecu (563) and chippet it, it suddenly puked black some at idle.
Turned out that it was due to the lambda sond beeing bad (gave out a low voltage signal).

After I swapped it the day before yesterday, I could once again install the fuel chip in the 563 ECU :-)
It pulls very smooth and I can see the AFR's change as they should do.

So, I can confirm this works well for +t, we are at 10PSI atm (0.7 bar) w/ MBC ball and spring.
Soon we will have new injectors and E85 again :-) Then we just need turbo clutch and I guess that means 1 bar time (15psi).
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:12 PM   #181
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Final results on the stock AMM and BT's ran a 13.97 @ 102 running 17psi and VERY much out of fuel up top.

Swapped in the 012/65# injector combo the end of last week and it's still learning, though the rich bog has already started to subside after about 90 miles.
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:51 PM   #182
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Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
$100 fuel, $100 EZK, prices will go up soon in the future so ya'll will want to pick them up now while I am being nice.



http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=158922

if ya missed it
Have you got anything on LH2.1/2.2? If not is it possible to convert to 2.4? What will I need?

THanks Mike
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:32 AM   #183
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Good question. I'm tuned into this thread.
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:49 PM   #184
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So I'm assuming that these chips adapt to larger injectors? I have browntops and a 15G, and right now my car seems to have decent AFRs. If I put in these chips, will it run overly-rich because the fuel chip tells it to get more fuel? Or will it just optimize my current setup?

Also...with my setup (15G @ 15psi, 2.5" exhaust, browntop injectors) are these chips necessary? How much will they really help? I'm not looking for much more power, as I'd like the trans to last, but better driveability/mpg/smoothness is more than welcome!
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Old 07-20-2009, 02:22 PM   #185
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People have noticed gains on mildly stock cars like yours. hard for just me to tell you, I would think reading the feedback and setup of others of here would be enough to help you decide if you wanted it or not.

It would help optimize the setup as the ECU is what learns what you have and adjusts it from there
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Old 07-20-2009, 02:56 PM   #186
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You'll like the difference. I had the same setup you're running when I pulled my 13.9 pass. Granted my motor is built, but there's a pretty noticeable difference between stock and chipped. I ran the same engine setup on the stock ECU when I was breaking things in, then swapped over to the chipped stuff once I had things settled. Throttle response is better, power is better, and available power when you up the boost is better. These chips held things in check until I literally ran out of injector at 17psi.
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:24 PM   #187
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AC condenser fan ALA Mr. Bill

RSI stage 1 cam & new T-Belt. ((RSI adjustable cam sprocket recommended?)

"New" Turbo T3 I bought about 10 years ago, but only used for a summer. .48 A/R "Mild upgraded compressor side" 3" with ATP UIWG 3" turbo back SS exhaust, Magnaflow 3" cat & straight through muffler.

Ported 90+

Mikes Chips (Injection & ignition)

4 flow matched 52#/576cc model INJL55 injectors from Racetronix

External CBV (Stock)

3" intake (from AMM to turbo inlet)

3" 012 AMM

Airaid air filter 720-431 Tucked up behind the bumper
under the passenger side headlamp.

NPR Intercooler

Volvo 2 speed electric fan mounted in the stock mechanical fan shroud with 2-speed relay. Low speed side in the radiator using the
"over heat" port. High speed control will be in the upper radiator hose.

G-Valve (RIP Gus)

Not quite 100 miles since I got this all done. So far, it's been quite a trip. At first, the performance was quite ****ty. Seriously. Idled like crap, way too rich, yadda yadda yadda.

Fast forward 4 minutes. Idle smoothed out, rich went away, became more drivable.

I don't know the mileage. But with 55# injectors I don't think it'll be thrifty. It's been running great, but I don't think the learning curve is resolved yet (Mike can comment better).

One thing though, I've noticed that the idle speed doesn't adjust to load very well (putting into drive, turning on A/C. Is that a function of the ECU or is it somehow independent like the old 240's were? I have the idle set to ~900 rpm, but when the A/C comes on, it'll drop down to about 400-450 RPM. Any suggestions what it may be?

Also, I'm still running a stock boost gauge. Does anyone know or has tried fitting a decent "real" gauge in the stock location?

Over all, I'll say this. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
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Last edited by Ursan; 08-17-2009 at 10:30 PM..
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:28 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ursan View Post
AC condenser fan ALA Mr. Bill

RSI stage 1 cam & new T-Belt. ((RSI adjustable cam sprocket recommended?)

"New" Turbo T3 I bought about 10 years ago, but only used for a summer. .48 A/R "Mild upgraded compressor side" 3" with ATP UIWG

Ported 90+

Mikes Chips (Injection & ignition)

4 flow matched 52#/576cc model INJL55 injectors from Racetronix

External CBV (Stock)

3" intake (from AMM to turbo inlet)

3" 012 AMM

Airaid air filter 720-431 Tucked up behind the bumper
under the passenger side headlamp.

NPR Intercooler

Volvo 2 speed electric fan mounted in the stock mechanical fan shroud with 2-speed relay. Low speed side in the radiator using the
"over heat" port. High speed control will be in the upper radiator hose.

G-Valve (RIP Gus)

Not quite 100 miles since I got this all done. So far, it's been quite a trip. At first, the performance was quite ****ty. Seriously. Idled like crap, way too rich, yadda yadda yadda.

Fast forward 4 minutes. Idle smoothed out, rich went away, became more drivable.

I don't know the mileage. But with 55# injectors I don't think it'll be thrifty. It's been running great, but I don't think the learning curve is resolved yet (Mike can comment better).

One thing though, I've noticed that the idle speed doesn't adjust to load very well (putting into drive, turning on A/C. Is that a function of the ECU or is it somehow independent like the old 240's were? I have the idle set to ~900 rpm, but when the A/C comes on, it'll drop down to about 400-450 RPM. Any suggestions what it may be?

Over all, I'll say this. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
hey im running the same cam and having similar issues with idle...it likes to lope around 500'ish at idle..not sure, aside from resetting the TB in terms of increasing idle
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:31 PM   #189
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Your idle air motor take a dump?
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:37 PM   #190
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very, very doubtful...
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:43 PM   #191
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Hmm..

Proceed...
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:44 PM   #192
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I might be on crack, but I recall reading somewhere that the ECU compensates when you load it up (turn A/C on, e-fan on, etc). that's how it seems to be on my car.. the idle will drop from 700rpm to about 450/500 momentarily when the fan clicks on, then back up to 700.
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Old 08-17-2009, 11:22 PM   #193
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Originally Posted by DanielRogers View Post
I might be on crack, but I recall reading somewhere that the ECU compensates when you load it up (turn A/C on, e-fan on, etc). that's how it seems to be on my car.. the idle will drop from 700rpm to about 450/500 momentarily when the fan clicks on, then back up to 700.
That's the way it was pre-chip. But not so lately. Something needed to re-learn?
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Old 08-17-2009, 11:25 PM   #194
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Originally Posted by maxman142001 View Post
very, very doubtful...
Why? I have had 1 die in my cars life around 170k.

I would wait until you get around 300 miles on your car to have the chips smooth out.


I would also check for vac leaks and make sure the TPS is setup right. ALso have you checked out the valve clearance for that cam
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Old 08-17-2009, 11:32 PM   #195
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I just replaced mine 1k miles ago with a IAC out of a low mileage 940. Also reset my TPS when I installed the IAC...before i did all my swapping the setup was perfect. ill check clearance this weekend...see if it needs shims...shouldnt, as the MS that had the head shimmed it.
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Old 08-17-2009, 11:57 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ursan View Post
That's the way it was pre-chip. But not so lately. Something needed to re-learn?
I don't think so. I'm running a set of Mike's chips and this was not affected at all on my car.
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Old 08-18-2009, 12:01 PM   #197
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Why? I have had 1 die in my cars life around 170k.

I would wait until you get around 300 miles on your car to have the chips smooth out.


I would also check for vac leaks and make sure the TPS is setup right. ALso have you checked out the valve clearance for that cam
I doubt mine is bad as the idle plummets if it's not connected.

Cam clearance was all within spec. Got the shim kit from IPD and car no longer sounds like a diesel. I'll recheck the TPS. That a throttle position switch or sensor on this car? (LH 2.4) I'm thinking switch.

What's a good way to check for vac leaks? Back in the day we had a smoker thing that worked great. I can't listen for leaks so, what's the next best idea?
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Old 08-18-2009, 12:12 PM   #198
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We take some 2" PVC end caps and put a tire valve in the end, clamp it into an intercooler pipe and pressurize the system to 20psi. take a spray bottle with soapy water and spray around anyplace it could leak and it should bubble up
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Old 08-18-2009, 01:15 PM   #199
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We take some 2" PVC end caps and put a tire valve in the end, clamp it into an intercooler pipe and pressurize the system to 20psi. take a spray bottle with soapy water and spray around anyplace it could leak and it should bubble up
Should he plug the tail pipe for this test?
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Old 08-18-2009, 01:23 PM   #200
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Should he plug the tail pipe for this test?
not necessary.
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