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Old 10-10-2015, 11:31 AM   #151
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Sounds pretty healthy, can't wait to see video of it rolling down the road!
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Old 10-10-2015, 03:02 PM   #152
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Your level of craftsmanship and eye for detail is incredible. I'm going to try and copy the zinc plating and fastener changes to class up the engine bay.

Come up to Alaska and ride dirt bikes some time!
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Old 10-10-2015, 03:23 PM   #153
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The car is looking great!

You guys should look up "Cable Lacing". It's an old-timers technique for creating cable looms with string in the days before split loom and zip ties existed. It looks really pretty when done well.

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Old 10-11-2015, 04:29 AM   #154
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The car is looking great!

You guys should look up "Cable Lacing". It's an old-timers technique for creating cable looms with string in the days before split loom and zip ties existed. It looks really pretty when done well.
Thanks.

I considered lacing the harness, but individual spot ties are easier to work with. The harness in the photo you posted has spot ties on all the legs, fwiw.
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Old 10-11-2015, 02:00 PM   #155
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Impressive work!
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:13 PM   #156
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Originally Posted by Alex Buchka View Post
I was going to make it from aluminum but I had the carbon sheet handy and it was almost the perfect size.
Buchka

/thread
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Old 10-13-2015, 03:31 PM   #157
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A video posted by Alex Buchka (@alex_buchka) on



Finally got the car on the road. Karl and I put in a long day on Sunday burning down the to-do list. Got the interior completely re-installed, attached and wired in the CBR1k instrument cluster, cruise control, fixed a bunch of burned out or not working dash board lights, etc.

I've been driving it around a bit the last few days. Did some tuning last night and with Duder's help we got the accel enrichment pretty good, leaned out the map quite a bit to solve some bogging issues. The clutch is not very friendly at low speeds but its actually more livable than I was anticipating. The car isn't crazy fast but it's smooth and has tons of torque everywhere. Still on the fence about the exhaust, I haven't decided if it's too loud or not yet.



Ran into an issue this morning when I started it up to drive to work. The MS kept rebooting itself over and over randomly. I'm pretty sure it's a grounding issue but I had to get to work so I had no time to try any fixes. I'll see what I can do about it tonight.
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Old 10-13-2015, 03:44 PM   #158
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That does sound pretty good. Lower pitch than I expected but I'm sure you are shifting at fairly low RPM.
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Old 10-13-2015, 03:57 PM   #159
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I want to hear it at 12k rpm.
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Old 10-13-2015, 04:38 PM   #160
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Watch out, they may make it happen.
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Old 10-13-2015, 04:49 PM   #161
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Watch out, they may make it happen.
It'll spin to 12k, but only once.
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Old 10-13-2015, 04:56 PM   #162
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Just thinking about what the engine would need to rev effectively to 12k is making my wallet shrivel. The redline is currently set to 7000. Not sure if Alex has tried winding it out yet, but with the current gearing and mostly-stock nature of the engine, I can't imagine it's very effective at that RPM.

The car will be a hell of a lot more fun once it gets a different rear gear. Something like a 3.73. It doesn't have enough torque to use the 3.31 very effectively.
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Old 10-13-2015, 05:04 PM   #163
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OK fine, we'll settle for peak power at 8500 RPM.

As for the rear gear, I can imagine, 3.31 is a smidge too tall for a W58. 3.73 seems to be a good match with a stockish tire size.
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Old 10-13-2015, 05:12 PM   #164
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First Volvo with pneumatic valves?
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Old 10-13-2015, 07:19 PM   #165
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Sounds great! 3.73 should make it a lot of fun.
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:09 PM   #166
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Sweet!!!
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:06 PM   #167
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After driving this car the other night I have to say it makes much more sense now with some power. Looking forward to further dialing-in of engine and suspension tuning.

It's super smooth even after the rudimentary tuning session. It does need shorter gears with the current engine output, but might actually be very livable with the 3.31s if it was boosted.

I followed Alex home when we left our shop that night and noted that it has that raspy S50/S52 BMW exhaust note. Sounds much meaner than a wheezy old B23F.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:52 PM   #168
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Originally Posted by Duder View Post
After driving this car the other night I have to say it makes much more sense now with some power. Looking forward to further dialing-in of engine and suspension tuning.

It's super smooth even after the rudimentary tuning session. It does need shorter gears with the current engine output, but might actually be very livable with the 3.31s if it was boosted.

I followed Alex home when we left our shop that night and noted that it has that raspy S50/S52 BMW exhaust note. Sounds much meaner than a wheezy old B23F.


331's will nevar spewl, 373's ftw, 354's max for a highway cruiser.
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Old 10-15-2015, 09:40 PM   #169
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331's will nevar spewl, 373's ftw, 354's max for a highway cruiser.
3.73 is fun, even in my stock 245.

The CBR display is a nice touch. Fits well, and who doesn't want a huge tach?
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Old 10-17-2015, 09:43 AM   #170
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Holy **** awesome. It does sounds pretty good. Got any plans to dyno tune it? Curious to know how much power that thing can actually make.
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Old 10-18-2015, 01:37 AM   #171
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Amazing build guys. Great work as always
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:09 AM   #172
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Thanks dudes, really appreciate the kind words.

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Holy **** awesome. It does sounds pretty good. Got any plans to dyno tune it? Curious to know how much power that thing can actually make.
Gonna get it to a reliable state and do a bunch of street tuning on the ancillary items (idle, cold start, etc), then take it to a dyno shop to do the ignition timing proper. I've heard good things about Church Automotive Testing in Wilmington.

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331's will nevar spewl, 373's ftw, 354's max for a highway cruiser.
I've been on the lookout for a set of 3.73 gears. It would be a nice upgrade since the car kind of feels like a dog after 2nd gear

More updates:

Got the megasquirt resetting issue figured out. Turned out to be an intermittent connection on the DB37 internal to the box. I first tried potting the wires to the connector with epoxy but it only made the problem worse. I suspect I locked one or more pins into a "bad" position that wouldn't let the car start at all. Ended up getting rid of the db37 and just soldering the wires directly to the MS mainboard and I think that did the trick. Here's a photo of the failed potting exercise.



Had another mechanical issue with the car this past week. The front half of the driveshaft is axially under-constrained because of the additional slip yoke on the W58. This coupled with what I think is some kind of imbalance or precession at freeway speed resulted in the center support bearing yanking itself out of the rubber donut and then pushing the donut out the back of the bracket.



Ended up enlisting the help of Karl to go fix the car in the parking lot of my girlfriend's place. The rubber donut was a little worse for wear but didn't look catastrophic. We bolted the driveshaft back together and drove it around a bit. Since it felt fine at low speed we decided to take the car to Pelican Parts Coffee and Cars on saturday morning.



The car was popular with older white haired men and asian dudes. Not really sure what that means.

After about 40 miles of driving at low speed we finally got the car on the lift and the center support rubber was completely wrecked, looked about 2 minutes away from failing entirely.



I have ordered a new bearing, a beefier 740 center support donut, an adapter bracket from Jao, and some other odds and ends to constrain the driveshaft better. Should have it back together this coming weekend.

While waiting on driveshaft parts to show up I decided to start working on the brake upgrade. I have a set of 330x32 Alcon rotors that I picked up for cheap but the rotor hats were the wrong size. I bought some material and got to turning













Karl did all the drilling so thanks to him for that. Next up are caliper adapters which should be less arduous than turning 20lbs of aluminum into chips. Going to be using some brembo 4 piston things I picked up here on tbricks cheap a while back. Hopefully it all works.
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:29 PM   #173
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Mocked up the brakes on the car tonight. It's a tight fit but it looks like everything is going to just clear. The calipers were made for 28mm thick rotors and the ones I'm using are 32mm so I'll just space the halves apart a little bit with some shims. Once that is done I can design the caliper adapters and bolt everything on.

I'm planning on keeping the stock rear calipers, just swapping the rear proportioning valves for ones off a 240 wagon. That should bring the brake balance back to a pretty reasonable place according to the numbers I ran.



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Old 10-19-2015, 11:36 PM   #174
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Nice work. One small word of advice I have been given after doing a similar brake setup, make vent holes in the hat between the bolts.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:47 AM   #175
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Dang you guys are cool.
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