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Old 03-18-2019, 06:56 PM   #26
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Default The crankshaft and pistons are in!

For part 2 of this update, the assembly of the rotating assembly!

Step 1: Getting the pistons and rings assembled with a good coat of ATF, and checking the previously determined balance of the rod and piston assemblies.

I got the assemblies within a worst case 0.5 grams, the Chinese Maxspeeding rods were within 1.0 gram of each other from the box. The pistons I filed down from the skirt before to get them including pins and rings within 0.5 grams in the worst case. I placed the heaviest rods and lightest pistons in center two bores, and the lightest rods and heaviest pistons in the outside bores.

[URL=https://s1250.photobucket.com/user/Heimeharrie/media/Engine%20build/WhatsApp%20Image%202019-03-18%20at%2022.44.21_zpsrxdyli02.jpeg.html]

Step 2: Getting the crank in and checking all of the journals.

The crank in place, with the new std size bearings, and a good coat of the green lucas oil assembly lube on the bearing half.


I then torqued on all the top caps with bearing inserted without lube, with oil on the bolt threads, with a piece of green plastigage in between, and confirmed a uniform 0.051mm clearance reading across all journals.


I then wiped of the plastigauge on both bearing and crank (easier than I expected with some brakeclean and the white coffee filters). Lubed up the bearings and re-torqued the bearing caps in place with once more oiled threads. After confirming a free spinning crankshaft, with only the resistance of the assembly lube, I checked crankshaft end play, to find about 0.10mm.

Step 3: Assembly of rods to pistons and putting them in

Starting of the insertion of the pistons, I cleaned the bores once more with ATF and white coffee filters. Next I cleaned the rods, pins and clips thoroughly with brake cleaner and added some assembly lube to the pins, and got the pistons rod sets assembled. I inserted the bearings, and repeated the checking process same as with the crankshaft, with the rod side pre-lubed as I put the pistons in the bores. The cap and bearing got placed on without lube as well with the green plastigage in between once more, and the caps got torqued down, a 12mm 12 tooth socket is a must for the provided bolts! (they looked like genuine ARP 3008's enough after checking some reference pictures, so we'll see) I used the ARP grease I got from Sjeng, Super thanks once more

Pistons in the bores, labeled after measurement


After checking each ended up better than expected from the Chinese rods, with a uniform clearance of 0.038mm, awesome! I then took them off again, removed the plastigage from the crank and bearings, and added liberal assembly lube, and put the bolts back in at the right torque spec as was provided with the rods.


I ended up with a bottom assembly easily turned by hand with the crankshaft pulley, so I added some more ATF to the bores, gave it a couple of turns, to make sure all was well, and checked for scratching of the bores by the newly filed rings. All was good so it got wrapped in plastic, until I receive my bearings and bushing, and get to porting the oil pump and its possible future mods.


I also started a little company in automotive related tinkerings and goodies as expansion of my hobby through which I was able to get my twin turbo manifold flanges laser cut as part of a larger group buy for the dutch turbobrickers, so a update on that will follow soon!

As a little teaser to end with for now, I'll be adding GSXR 750 ITB's to the mix, still with LH2.4, to get my turbo lag down, and better breathing of the motor, since I got inspired by Sander's awesome V12 project.


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Last edited by Swedbrick; 06-03-2019 at 04:48 PM.. Reason: fixing the images
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Old 03-20-2019, 12:53 PM   #27
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good job man
Thanks!
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:30 AM   #28
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Why atf in the bores instead of engine oil? I've had good luck with lubriplate no.105 assembly grease
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Old 03-21-2019, 10:58 AM   #29
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Why atf in the bores instead of engine oil? I've had good luck with lubriplate no.105 assembly grease
I've heard ATF is better for seating the rings/breakin.
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Old 03-21-2019, 01:29 PM   #30
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Why atf in the bores instead of engine oil? I've had good luck with lubriplate no.105 assembly grease
Hi,

Just as cwazywazy said, it allows the rings to bed in quicker, and has the benefit of removing any possible rust that could form on the bores, since ATF removes rust and has some better cleaning qualities
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:09 AM   #31
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Realy nice build!!!

Ik ga dit zeker even volgen!!
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Old 03-27-2019, 06:07 PM   #32
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I'm enjoying this build,
I love the looks of ITBs, and ... gold paint on stuff.
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:52 PM   #33
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Ready for more!
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Old 04-05-2019, 09:33 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by freevolvos View Post
Why atf in the bores instead of engine oil? I've had good luck with lubriplate no.105 assembly grease
Engine break-in recommendations from a custom piston shop: https://blog.jepistons.com/how-to-break-in-an-engine

Last edited by bobxyz; 04-05-2019 at 09:38 PM.. Reason: typo
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Old 04-06-2019, 05:02 AM   #35
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Clean the bores with ATF, install pistons with a little engine oil.

ATF is not suited for fresh cylinder walls, cylinders need lubrication not the cleaning properties of ATF.
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:38 PM   #36
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Engine break-in recommendations from a custom piston shop: https://blog.jepistons.com/how-to-break-in-an-engine
Gave this a good read last week and took a while to consider the options, thanks for the tip same goes for J2_ , I put the head on today, before which I chose to wipe off all the atf I could with brake cleaner and re-oiled with a mineral shop oil. It should be alright, with a little white smoke at initial startup

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I'm enjoying this build,
I love the looks of ITBs, and ... gold paint on stuff.
Subscribed.
Thanks, getting pretty stoked on the ITB's as well, should be an epic match when the turbo's are added

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Realy nice build!!!
Ik ga dit zeker even volgen!!
Danku, danku

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Ready for more!
Updates with pictures are following soon, currently waiting on my valve shims to get the head within spec, to close it up before getting to the oil sump and accesories. After that the turbo manifold
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:38 PM   #37
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This is EPIC!
I've never seen Budget and twin turbo in the same sentence. Keep tabs on the cost for the TT fan.
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Old 04-13-2019, 06:30 PM   #38
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Dit ga ik volgen
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Old 04-17-2019, 02:21 PM   #39
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This is EPIC!
I've never seen Budget and twin turbo in the same sentence. Keep tabs on the cost for the TT fan.
To be honest he seems to be stretching the definition of "budget" ...
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:53 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Ilvmetal View Post
This is EPIC!
I've never seen Budget and twin turbo in the same sentence. Keep tabs on the cost for the TT fan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rooster View Post
To be honest he seems to be stretching the definition of "budget" ...
To herby answer your question, and to answer to myself how far I went down the rabbit hole thusfar, I took an hour this afternoon to get it figured out. Below the lists of parts that you'd need to get to this point, assuming you manage to get lucky with a parted out turbo 945 like I did These parts were slowly collected over a couple of years, to be able to have some savings in getting a bunch of these at a lower than new price.

EngineTurbo setupEngine management
B230fk € 150.00 TD04-13c (#1) + banjo etc € 75.00 LH 2.4 loom € 50.00
ET pistons € 30.00 K&N air filters € 87.00 Second donor loom € 50.00
B230fk rebuild kit € 270.00 TD04-13c (#2) € 30.00 Full redo with completely new wiring € 150.00
Dual valve spring kit € 180.00 K&N filter oil € 15.00 LH control set #1 (-984) € 50.00
Strong headbolt kit € 50.00 2 turbo rebuild kits + heatshields € 104.00 LH control set #2 (-531) € 100.00
Intermediate shaft bearings € 70.00 Steel (10mm) exhaust and turbo flanges € 40.00 € 400.00
MaxSpeeding rods with rodbolts € 240.00 Steel 90 degree bends + tube (42mm dia) € 50.00
Freezeplugs, head position pins, seals € 30.00 2 Aliexpress 2.5" intercoolers € 220.00
Volvo 360 waterpump € 20.00 GSXR 750 ITB's € 100.00
Timing belt + covers € 40.00 € 721.00
Paint € 50.00
Intermediate shaft puller material € 20.00
Assembly lube + thread sealant € 30.00
€ 1,180.00


As with any project this list will become longer with time, but for now I'm reasonoably happy with what I put into my budget engine, compared to a stock low mile b230fk/ft which go up for sale around 500+. With improved valve springs, stronger rods and new seals and bearings this is quite reasonable.

The turbo setup still has an intake manifold and tubing among some other bits to be added, and the engine management will be chipped with a eeprom burner I recently ordered. All in all, a bit more than the standard turbo conversion, but I'd count it as a budget project, since most of the costs were shifted to the time put in versus the investment
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Old 04-20-2019, 03:23 AM   #41
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Dual intercoolers even?
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Old 04-20-2019, 12:25 PM   #42
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Why not use something like this to simplify pipe work:
https://imgur.com/a/7FDh8Bs
Love the build and the twins, keep it up
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Old 04-21-2019, 12:13 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Swedbrick View Post
I'll be adding GSXR 750 ITB's to the mix, still with LH2.4, to get my turbo lag down, and better breathing of the motor.
Wait can you really say 'ITB' and 'budget build' in the same sentence for a car that never came from the factory with them? I know LH2.4 is pretty flexible but I've also heard that ITB's are a massive PITA to tune. Is LH really able to handle all that? Because if it can, I think I may have to revisit my future plans and squeeze a nice little set of ITB's in!
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Old 04-21-2019, 12:23 AM   #44
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Put an airbox on the ITBs then have the MAF sensor on the end of the airbox. Well, that’s how you’d do it on a non-turbo. On a turbocharged setup it’s just the same as normal, except you’ll have two pipes after the the MAF as the air splits and goes to the two turbos.
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Old 04-24-2019, 09:37 AM   #45
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For part 3, clearances and polishing, since the oil starvation had taken it's toll on the crankshaft and the rods, I decided to refinish the crankshaft, by chinabay rods, which would also have to be clearanced and got to work on several other important aspects.

The polished crankshaft, the shoestring and sandpaper trick was used whilst repeatedly checking with the fingernails and the calipers for correct clearances. The choice was made to be on the wide side of the stock clearance, which after polishing ended up being with the stock bearing size.


Polishing the set of chosen b230et pistons, with 3.6mm dish for 9.3:1 compression, for better torque and fuel consumption.


Side by side comparison of skirt thickness for old type ET pistons (right) vs FK/FT pistons (left)


The chinabay rods, suprisingly well matched in weight and split, but did have to clearance pin bore slightly and had to deburr and improve oiling hole on top of the small end, since the machining edges were terrible. (Still looking for arp grease, if anyone has some in the Netherlands!)


Balancing the pistons, rings, pins and rods.




Painted several bits, cleaned up carbon from stock cam and auxilary shaft


Restored turbo, ported and polished, rewelded worst of cracks, should hold for quite a while




Two TD04-13C turbo's, rebuild with a budget kit


Next up, manifold construction, which is still in the pipe's, so more progress will follow soon. The assembly of the block will be somewhere in december, so that will take a little while to get to.
Any more details on how you improved the oil holes and clearanced the rods,
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Old 04-24-2019, 09:45 AM   #46
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I like everything about this but LH. good luck with that (seriously), look forward to seeing the finished product!
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:27 AM   #47
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Default some clarifications

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Originally Posted by Sjeng View Post
Dual intercoolers even?
Jup

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Originally Posted by MrKrabs View Post
Why not use something like this to simplify pipe work:
https://imgur.com/a/7FDh8Bs
Love the build and the twins, keep it up
Yes I did consider that option, but I wish to go to a slit type manifold, for which with two intercoolers the pipework will actually align better with keeping everything separated. Checked out your build btw, awesome project!

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Wait can you really say 'ITB' and 'budget build' in the same sentence for a car that never came from the factory with them? I know LH2.4 is pretty flexible but I've also heard that ITB's are a massive PITA to tune. Is LH really able to handle all that? Because if it can, I think I may have to revisit my future plans and squeeze a nice little set of ITB's in!
Quote:
Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
Put an airbox on the ITBs then have the MAF sensor on the end of the airbox. Well, that’s how you’d do it on a non-turbo. On a turbocharged setup it’s just the same as normal, except you’ll have two pipes after the the MAF as the air splits and goes to the two turbos.
To summarize all this, yes you can easily do ITB's on a turbo build as long as it without leaks and you take into account the change in volumetric efficiency of the engine. The biggest hassle with ITB's is the difference in fuel you'll need to throw in to keep up with the throttle response, the turbo's and intercoolers somewhat delay this.

Below a summary of the setup I'm planning on in MS paint


I'll try to use an arduino or other custom harware to translate the total airflow recorded by the two MAF's into a for LH interpretable signal similair to the -016 swap if possible.

More details and the inspiration on the plenum design can be found here, pretty cool stuff:
https://www.bufkinengineering.com/in...0manifolds.htm

Last edited by Swedbrick; 06-03-2019 at 04:43 PM.. Reason: fixing the images
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:33 AM   #48
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Any more details on how you improved the oil holes and clearanced the rods,
Nothing more than a grinding more of a tear drop in with a small ball end dremel tool for the oil holes, also removing the burrs remaining.

The clearance of the small end was done by using a small brake hone, heavily oiled at low rpm, and opening up the bore ever so slightly until the wrist pins went in with light thumb pressure as specified in the haynes manual. This to prevent any binding during run in, since I prefer a little loose over getting it hot during initial startup.

The big ends were checked in block with the plastigage, possibly you could also check them with a bore gauge for roundness and squareness, but considering my plastigage flattened down evenly, they should be good enough.

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Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
I like everything about this but LH. good luck with that (seriously), look forward to seeing the finished product!
Let's hope it works out, otherwise, I might just send you a private message for the LH to megasquirt stuff
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Old 04-26-2019, 01:58 AM   #49
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I'll try to use an arduino or other custom harware to translate the total airflow recorded by the two MAF's into a for LH interpretable signal similair to the -016 swap if possible.
Would it not be easier to have one MAF and a y-pipe after it that feeds the two turbos? You would definitely have more flow potential with the dual MAF's but are you shooting for power levels that would require that? It just adds another variable in an already complex tuning nightmare! That being said, I would love to see it be done

So massive props if you can get all this to work on LH that would (will?) be crazy!
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:36 AM   #50
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Can't you just put the MAF after the turbos or does that not work with LH?
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