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#26 |
Happy playing the blues
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
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![]() I've replaced clogged injectors twice in the last year which clogged from sitting with this terrible gas we get. We are suppoed to have only 10 percent ethanol. But no one really monitors how much goes in there and the more they put in the more money the fuel company and the corn growers make.
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#27 | |
Sick ****** T-Brick Prick
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: gangcouver
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![]() Quote:
https://www.sucarburetors.com/ |
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#28 |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fairport, NY
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![]() I ran HF6 SUs, HIF SU, Stromberg Carbs (as delivered in '70), and the DGEV 38 carb. The DGEV gave me more trouble and poorer performance of any of them. The worn out HF6 carbs were the best. In fact, I chose the HF6 carbs with leaky throttle shafts over the DGEV.
The biggest problem is that people are just scared of SU carbs. I'm not sure why, they are one of the simplest to understand and are quite easy to adjust. BTW, SU carbs were used on the Datsun 240Z and are still serviced and repaired for them. Try a web search for Datsun SUs, and you will find a bunch of results. https://sucarb.co.uk/ is also a good source of information.
__________________
-- John Werner * 1992 944T * 1988 764 GLE V6 * 2002 WRX Wagon (needs motor) * 2006 Honda Odyssey *
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#29 |
Happy playing the blues
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
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![]() All they are is different ways to make the incoming air atomize the fuel so it can be burned up. Don't need to be skeered of any of them.
An investment in some tools greatly helps. Get the SU adjustment kit which has the jet adjustment spanner. I use the german synchrometer balancing tool. It's more accurate than the unisyn. A small test tube for measuring accelerator pump output is helpful. A caliper for measuring float height. If you have strombergs the jet adjustment tool is the only way to adjust them. Also be patient and double check things when setting up your carbs. Colortune is another good tool but I don't have one anymore. Oh I forgot a great tool. Get a book like the Haynes manual on these carbs. It's great reading. Last edited by dl242gt; 05-04-2019 at 02:09 PM.. Reason: add last comment |
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#30 | |
Sick ****** T-Brick Prick
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: gangcouver
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![]() Quote:
Its funny, I ran into a retired guy who worked in a volvo dealer as a mechanic in the 80s. He took one look at my 79, hood down and says "which carb?" When i said SU he says "great carb but not fun when its cold out"..... I never told him my car was carbed, he just knew. I mean, I get it, carbs with manual chokes are just this way. Some are worse. |
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#31 | |
Eisen-Stein
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Morgantown, WV/Your mom's house
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My spitfire with HS2’s and ATF in the dashpots and the B20 with HIF’s both cold start great. |
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#32 |
Happy playing the blues
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
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![]() My cars with SU or Strombergs never had any starting issues. They didn' thave any running issues because you aren't supposed to drive them with the choke on. So you have to warm up the car enough so you can drive without the choke. A small amount of choke was ok if it was really cold but the general rule of thumb was to warm up till you don't need the choke.
I used to run webers on my porsches and VWs all year round. No chokes on them or warmup enrichment. Just have to warm up enough till it drove. |
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#33 | |
The MP
Join Date: May 2003
Location: 38° 27' N 75° 29' W
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I have a mixed bunch of them. |
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#34 | |
junkman
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: The Ass Cheek Of History
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![]() In the 30s after a min or two it runs fine |
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#35 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wheelin in my PV Jeep
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![]() The SU hif6's are definitely a performance upgrade compared to the Weber. Unfortunately I'm experiencing a fair amount of heat soak with SU's. Found a DGAS Weber in my carb pile but I think I'm going back to the 36/38 progressive. Performance is not the #1 goal when it comes to the PV Jeep but fuel consumption is when were often 100 miles from civilization.
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#36 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fairport, NY
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#37 |
yv1a.com
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Kitsap, Wa
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![]() Stop by Tap Plastics (or online) and buy a chunk of Polypropylene. Trace the carb gasket with a scribe and use a coping saw/band saw/other to cut out the profile. !/2" thick is more than adequate. Be sure to use a gasket on both sides. Some longer studs and it'll work fine. If it is radiated heat, you can put some insulation on the fuel bowl or build a small heat shield out of sheet metal.
Despite the debate on which carb is better, I'm sure just about any of them will work fine in your application. Sounds like you have a progressive weber laying around. Assuming it is in good condition, run it. You aren't building a max effort race motor. I personally favor the twin side drafts. I'm an American and more is always better... Besides it looks cool. The most important thing is to get the Valp back wheeling. Run what you have and don't spend a gazillion $$ building something else. If the SUs work fine, run them till they don't. If it dies out on the trail, film the recovery/modification and trip back out. Edit it and upload to youtube because @roadkill. On the topic of gas, I run non-ethanol fuel in all my part time vehicles. This includes a 69 firebird, two 66 Sweptline trucks and a 72 Wagoneer. For a fuel additive, I use a fuel additive from Archoil. Works for me. StarTron is also good (its turpentine based as I recall). Its the alcohol in the fuel that the carb gaskets and O rings can't handle. It also eats the old fuel hose as well. The alcohol also absorbs water vapor from the air. This results in corrosion of the carb and general gummy-ness of the fuel sitting in the vented carb fuel bowl. The non-ethanol fuel solves most of these issues and a good fuel treatment does the rest. Get it running and wheel it! |
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