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Old 06-27-2019, 03:16 AM   #1
j.haded
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Default volvo 240 engine swap

hey guys so I'm stuck with my motor swap. b230ft from a 91 940se into my current 93 240. motor is in and cranks. I have power to the coil and power out but nothing out the brand new distributor. I also do not have fuel (do not hear the fuel pump kick on and no power @ fuse #4 before the fuel pump).I do have a code @ the engine code reader 2-2-4. not much info on this fault code, calls it a ground fault or engine coolant temp fault. I verified all the grounds are hooked up and at this point am kind of stumped. looking for any info I can get! thanks
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Old 06-27-2019, 01:22 PM   #2
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lh 2.4 diagram. If you don't have power at the fuse that comes straight from the battery. Check those connections also double check your fuse number.

Check your crank sensor too for the no spark. You may have two issues.
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Old 07-02-2019, 10:59 PM   #3
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I have replaced the crank sensor, both coolant temp sensors, fuel pump relay and am trying to figure out where to go next or what to look for. any ideas?
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Old 07-02-2019, 11:55 PM   #4
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Double check the flywheel is aligned correctly? You should see the mark through the starter hole. Just an idea
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Old 07-03-2019, 12:34 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.haded View Post
I do have a code @ the engine code reader 2-2-4. not much info on this fault code, calls it a ground fault or engine coolant temp fault. I verified all the grounds are hooked up and at this point am kind of stumped. looking for any info I can get! thanks
The LH2.4 ECU uses separate ground wires for the high-power grounds (injectors, IAC), and sensor grounds (MAF, coolant, TPS, etc.). Pin 5 on the ECU connector is sensor ground, pin 17 is high-power ground. I'm guessing here, but I think a 2-2-4 code is saying that the sensor ground connection is bad. There should be 2 brown/black or black wires, with ring terminals, that are bolted to the intake manifold. Check that these are bolted down well. If so, you could check the resistance from ECU pin 5 and pin 17 to chassis ground (key off). Both should be ~0 ohms. When checking, only touch the meter probe lightly to the ecu pin. If you shove the meter probe into the connector, you'll damage the connector and have worse intermittent problems.
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Old 07-03-2019, 01:16 AM   #6
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I'm gunna double check the flywheel timing, and double check I didn't mess up one of the wires while extending the amm harness. the whole code 2-2-4 is throwing me for a loop. I'm gunna start with the other steps and see where I end up.
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Old 07-04-2019, 11:39 PM   #7
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Even if your flywheel was out of time, you should still have spark coming out of the coil to the distributor cap. Verify that you have spark going out of the coil and don't worry about the fuel side until you know for certain that you have spark.
If you don't have spark, verify that your ignition amplifier is good.
The 700 ignition systems greenbook has a pretty good diagnostic process that can be used on later 240's as they used EZK ignition. The wire colors are different, but it's the same system essentially.
If you can't find a copy, send me a PM, I may have one that I can email you.
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Old 07-05-2019, 07:41 AM   #8
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did you put in a block mounted distributor without checking for a geared intermediary shaft?
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