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Were to buy "Volvo" seals online?

wennstroma said:
I've had bad luck with the newer Volvo cam/aux shaft seals. Did front seals with a timing belt on my 940, and ~16 months later the cam seal was leaking. Took it out and it crumbled in my hands.

Some of their suppliers are changing and the quality of some of the parts seems to be declining.
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I'm just going thru a similar episode with int' shaft seal and camshaft seal. All 3 seals were replaced in June by a reputable shop with seals (Elring i believe), from eEuroparts or FCP. when int. shaft seal was leaking very bad. Now camshaft seal is leaking. That seal was replaced in June 2014 when lt had been leaking for months. Mechanic doesn't want to "eat" the labor on this. I just found gen. Volvo seals at IPD or eEuro for about 3 or 4 times the price. I don't care about price now if they work. What say everybody? Oh, VERY low miles in these 2+ years.
Is there a "quick and dirty" way to do camshaft seal? Thanks, jim
 
Sounds about right for Elring. Go OEM, do it once, and move along. Rear main, front main, cam, and intermediate are all OEM now on mine, rear main is dry after around 4 years so far and counting, fronts have around 2 years, still dry and they all see a good bit of crankcase pressure.
 
quikbrik2 said:
I'm just going thru a similar episode with int' shaft seal and camshaft seal. All 3 seals were replaced in June by a reputable shop with seals (Elring i believe), from eEuroparts or FCP. when int. shaft seal was leaking very bad. Now camshaft seal is leaking. That seal was replaced in June 2014 when lt had been leaking for months. Mechanic doesn't want to "eat" the labor on this. I just found gen. Volvo seals at IPD or eEuro for about 3 or 4 times the price. I don't care about price now if they work. What say everybody? Oh, VERY low miles in these 2+ years.
Is there a "quick and dirty" way to do camshaft seal? Thanks, jim
Click to expand...

Front cam seal on these cars is so easy to get to that I would be surprised if there was anything but "quick n dirty".

Line up the timing marks, release tbelt tension, unbolt cam gear, replace seal, put cam gear back on, line up timing marks again and then put the tensioner back on. Wham bam thank you ma'am.

Or are you talking about the rear seal? If so, when you replace it, get the iPd blockoff plate to help keep it in place too.


Also on one hand your mechanic should have used quality parts in the first place but OTOH they have no way to know how you drive your car and it's kind of unreasonable to expect them to do too much after 2+ years.

How many miles is not many? Because seals can actually dry out and leak if the car isn't driven often enough as well. Although an extreme example, my local junior college has a 90-something Saturn that has approximately 20 miles on it and it leaks like a sieve since it's just been sitting unused for 20-something years.
 
quikbrik2 said:
I'm just going thru a similar episode with int' shaft seal and camshaft seal. All 3 seals were replaced in June by a reputable shop with seals (Elring i believe), from eEuroparts or FCP. when int. shaft seal was leaking very bad. Now camshaft seal is leaking. That seal was replaced in June 2014 when lt had been leaking for months. Mechanic doesn't want to "eat" the labor on this. I just found gen. Volvo seals at IPD or eEuro for about 3 or 4 times the price. I don't care about price now if they work. What say everybody? Oh, VERY low miles in these 2+ years.
Is there a "quick and dirty" way to do camshaft seal? Thanks, jim
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Elring seals suck for front seals. Spend the 4x money to get the volvo seal and don't look back. I didn't read the above replies because they probably say the same thing I'm saying.

You'll have to pull the timing belt and cam sprocket off to do the seal. Same with the aux sprocket. No big deal.
 
OEM doesn't mean anything. Folks think they are getting the same part as the car was manufactured with when they see this OEM label horse shlt. Does anyone actually know what OEM stands for? I'll tell you. OEM means original equipment manufacturer, which means that at some time the outfit that made the part in question manufactured some new car part for some new car manufacturer. It may have been turn signal bulbs or tire valve stems. Who knows? The point is that it doesn't mean squat when comparing parts vis-a-vis the ones that came on the car when it was new.

OE is another story. OE means original equipment. The exact same stuff that the engine/car was made with when new. Huge difference.

The take home lesson is that Elring and most other non-Volvo seals suck while real Volvo stuff lasts for years and years.
 
quikbrik2 said:
I'm just going thru a similar episode with int' shaft seal and camshaft seal. All 3 seals were replaced in June by a reputable shop with seals (Elring i believe), from eEuroparts or FCP. when int. shaft seal was leaking very bad. Now camshaft seal is leaking. That seal was replaced in June 2014 when lt had been leaking for months. Mechanic doesn't want to "eat" the labor on this. I just found gen. Volvo seals at IPD or eEuro for about 3 or 4 times the price. I don't care about price now if they work. What say everybody? Oh, VERY low miles in these 2+ years.
Is there a "quick and dirty" way to do camshaft seal? Thanks, jim
Click to expand...

When I was comparing the leaky 2 months old National cam seals to a new volvo cam seals, the volvo seals' lip were extended longer. I changed all three front seals where I was there. Still no leak after 20 months.


The cam seal/intermediate seal can be changed out in 15 minutes, if I remember correctly on a 2/7/9 series. It can be changed out about 30-45 minutes on a early whiteblock, 850/960/x70, etc.
 
Wren said:
OEM doesn't mean anything. Folks think they are getting the same part as the car was manufactured with when they see this OEM label horse shlt. Does anyone actually know what OEM stands for? I'll tell you. OEM means original equipment manufacturer, which means that at some time the outfit that made the part in question manufactured some new car part for some new car manufacturer. It may have been turn signal bulbs or tire valve stems. Who knows? The point is that it doesn't mean squat when comparing parts vis-a-vis the ones that came on the car when it was new.

OE is another story. OE means original equipment. The exact same stuff that the engine/car was made with when new. Huge difference.

The take home lesson is that Elring and most other non-Volvo seals suck while real Volvo stuff lasts for years and years.
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Jesus effing christ I wish more people knew this. I'm tempted to put it in my sig too.

I tell people this all the time. "But the parts at Autozone say OEM!" that doesn't mean dick. If Joe's Shady Auto Electric made one relay for one manufacturer for one year, that makes Joe's Shady Auto Electric and OEM. It does not mean that they are the OE Manufacturer for your car.


Sorry. Working in auto parts, this is one of those things that gets me riled up because so many manufacturers push and advertise that they're "OEM" parts and so many consumers don't realize that any company who's made any part for any carmaker could be an "OEM".
 
That's actually one thing that hasn't changed in years. Damn near 15 years ago when I was in dealer parts it was still the same BS. 'But the <insert chain store name here> guy said this is the same part as the one you're selling me for 5x the price, even made by the same company.'
Yeah lady, sure it is. That's why they give you a lifetime warranty so you can replace them for your lifetime.

That said, I have seen the same exact heater control valve in a 4-seasons box as I pulled out of the Mopar box for 4x the price. The same stickers and casting marks and everything. Same for an MTC valve for the wagon vs. the $120 valve from Volvo, same casting bits here and there on it.
 
quikbrik2 said:
Would you please elaborate. I'm ready to order the "genuine volvo" seal from fcp euro.
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thebornotaku said:
Front cam seal on these cars is so easy to get to that I would be surprised if there was anything but "quick n dirty".

Line up the timing marks, release tbelt tension, unbolt cam gear, replace seal, put cam gear back on, line up timing marks again and then put the tensioner back on. Wham bam thank you ma'am.
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That?
 
Yup, that. Sounds easy enough.Never having done it, i was concerned belt might drop off crank gear and int. gear and "lose" the timing. You must use something to keep it from dropping/falling. Thanks
 
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