What clutch discs have you used with the T5 trans?
Spec 2+ I think. I have his disc now.
Yep, Spec 2+, running one also with the Getrag 265. Also ran a clutchnet a long time ago for a short time.
Been slacking on an update, drove the car as much as possible over the winter. This was with the b230f+t running e85 @ 24psi and with a getrag 265 behind it. Ended up building my own adapter plate, centering ring, cross-member, and shifter for the Getrag conversion. Got away with running a stock late 240 m47 driveshaft, just had to re-drill the center support bushing mount to move it forward ~0.75-1". Also running the thicker M5 guibo helps. The original E30 M3 265 I purchased feel through, was a big pain in the ass to get a refund through Ebay/Paypal, so I'm running a standard 265.
The transmission has its' up's and down's compared to the T5. The 265 fits in a 240 perfectly, whereas the T5 is much longer and pretty much puts the front driveshaft interface at the most narrow/low section of the body's driveshaft tunnel. The 265 allowed for a factory balanced driveshaft with zero clearance issues. Shifting wise, the T5 wins hands down. Even with redline MTL fluid and the shifter setup I built, which has pretty much zero play/slop, the 265 takes noticeable effort to shift (not sure how much of this is related to transmission condition). Ratio wise, the T5 wins hands down again. It's the short 1st gear that kills the 265, the rest of the ratios seem pretty decent. Also the option to go out a buy a new T5z for $1200-1300 is bonus, instead of dealing with 150-200k mile / 20 year old transmission.
The gear noise is less with the 265 when moving, at idle in neutral you do notice some chatter (again likely due to transmission condition, but I have heard a similar noise from an e36's with a lightened flywheel). I still get the vibrations at specific engine rpm's that many people seem to deal with. I'm at the point where I believe it's due to the flat flywheel/engine combination, guessing this is why Volvo went to the dual mass flywheels later on. With the 265 install I also installed a brand new OEM flat flywheel, original flywheel had been resurfaced several times. This did seem to move the rpm band the vibrations occur, lowered ~300 rpm.
About a month ago I began to notice crankcase vapors after acceleration events. Looked over the crankcase ventilation setup and couldn't find any issues. About two weeks ago I drove the car out to Pawnee Buttes for a hike, it's about a 200 mile drive out to the middle of nowhere. After the trip I noticed the car was idling pretty rough, like it was missing on 1 cylinder. Did a compression test and cylinder 1 was only making 30psi. Figured it was a cracked ring-land, which would explain the excessive crankcase vapors. Pulled and disassembled the motor and confirmed the cracked ring-lands on piston 1, piston 4 also had 1 crack.
The car had hit boost cut (~29 psi at this altitude) on a few occasions before this happened. Not sure why it was hitting boost cut since it didn't happen all winter with colder weather. Not the first time I've had the boost control do some screwy stuff, not sure if it's software or hardware related.
Debated on what route to go to get the car back together. Have a 2.5l rotating assembly sitting around, but did some calcs and looks like it'll yield a ~9.6 compression ratio. That's assuming 53cc combustion chamber volume, still need cc my cylinder head though. After the whole b230f+t/e85 experience I'd like to be able to run pump gas and still make power. Also building the 2.5l would require some time and I'm already anxious to get the car back on the road with the warm weather.
Ended up ordering a set of 2nd OS b230ft pistons (factory reman'd block was already 2nd OS), honing the block, adding piston oil squiters (using John V's kit), and RSI h-beam rods. I've had a hard time trying to track down rod bearings this past week, seems like they're drying up (had two parts stores say they have them the next day, then come up with nothing). Atleast the federal mogul 44335CP's, parts store even contacted the factory who said they weren't being produced anymore. Might end up settling on a set of the OEM Gylco's. My goal was to have this all done in the last week but I still need to get the rod bearings, and decided I'm going to get the piston/rod wrist pins fitted by a machine shop this week.
Also debating picking up a new dual mass flywheel while everything is apart to see what impact that has on the vibration issue. With this flywheel I'd run a dual diaphragm clutchnet pressure plate with a less aggressive clutch to avoid flywheel surface cracking/failure but still hold the torque.
Getrag adapter:
Pawnee Buttes:
Random: