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Old 05-31-2015, 12:51 AM   #1
SmokesLetsGo
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Default Rear differential grenade

So I finally blew up the spider gears on my open differential for my '84 Volvo 244 GL N/A Automatic.

The engine is turbo, so I knew it would come to this. The timing was (as always ) bad. I looked at some photos of the rear diff without the cover on the back and I saw four bolts holding in the differential. Are these the bolts you take off to replace the cartridge?


I'm simply putting another open ended diff in there (and never dumping the clutch... for now) to get it driving.

TL;DR, How do I replace the open ended differential cartridge in a volvo 240, not the whole axle assembly.
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Old 05-31-2015, 03:49 AM   #2
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You weld it? So far I've seen that welded diffs lead to broken spider gears...

Popping out the diff is pretty easy. Just remove one of the panhard bolts to get some space, pull the cover, pull out the axles, the 4 bolts in the diff are for side bearing caps. There may be some c-clips or rings holding the axles in the diff - it's been awhile.

Being 'proper' will also include shimming, checking backlash and teeth contact pattern.
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Old 05-31-2015, 03:53 AM   #3
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Honestly, to set it up for lash, you're better off to just swap a whole axle for time.

I have a whole axle end to end minus axle shafts (swap yours into it). 3.73:1 same as yours.

Not that hard to swap the whole thing.
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:22 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
Honestly, to set it up for lash, you're better off to just swap a whole axle for time.

I have a whole axle end to end minus axle shafts (swap yours into it). 3.73:1 same as yours.

Not that hard to swap the whole thing.
That'd be great to get all that stuff. The problem is I'm in Eugene for this one. I haven't studied up on differentials... What's "lash"?
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:25 AM   #5
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Old 05-31-2015, 10:33 AM   #6
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That'd be great to get all that stuff. The problem is I'm in Eugene for this one. I haven't studied up on differentials... What's "lash"?
Go get a whole axle from 2manyturbos or SLUMLORD? Either of them is closer (Albany or Monroe)...

Monroe isn't far from Eugene....

Or I can ship you a carrier if you want to measure lash/possibly recycle shims, or just swap the ring gear, throw it in there and cross your fingers. Feel for any excessive play and hope it goes back in like the old one all around.

Probably better just to swap it whole...

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Old 05-31-2015, 01:26 PM   #7
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Taro,

I have complete axle assemblies already out. The ratios I have are 3.31 and 3.73. I can bring one to Eugene on Tuesday. Get in touch if interested.
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Old 05-31-2015, 03:47 PM   #8
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remove axle shafts, remove 4 bolts holding carrier bearing caps on, remove open diff, install open diff, reinstall bearing caps & torque bolts, put axle shafts back in, install cover, FILL WITH FLUID. only important step is the final step.

swapping one open diff for another is not ideal w/o checking lash and adjusting shims to fix any issues with lash and also preload. When installing the differential, there should be some preload on the carrier bearings, meaning it shouldn't just drop in with no effort. It should require a little persuasion, such as with a plastic coated dead blow hammer.

if the lash is wrong, but the preload is good, then you would simply need to maintain total shim thickness, but move some shim thickness from one side to the other to adjust the differential position relative to the pinion gear.

if the lash is correct, but the preload is too loose or too tight, then you need to add/remove shim thickness evenly from both sides. unlikely you'd have too much preload, and also have a way of knowing if the lash is correct, but that's beside the point.

if lash and preload are both off, then shim swappin' is needed to fix both.

shims are located under the carrier bearings, so you need a press and bearing puller dealie to press the bearings off the differential.

either just wing it with another open diff in your housing, or swap the entire axle assembly. the full swap is not that bad, just grunt work.
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Old 01-07-2019, 07:42 PM   #9
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Looks like this issues has come full circle. New car this time with a 1030 carrier and open gear set. I have a g80 in my possession without the bearings and shims, so looking forward to this (again) lol.

Also, thank you for all the help! It turned out it was fine just swapping the ring gear over from one diff to the next, and the assembly didn't make a peep when put back together on the old car. That's gone the way of the dodo now, and I have the 2 door now.

Fortunately I have a bit more understanding of how this process works, so hopefully I'll be able to knock it out in a weekend... I think i'll go with a 1031 rear axle assembly and set up the lash correctly with the G80.
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Old 01-07-2019, 08:11 PM   #10
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I’m a hack, but If the carrier bearings look decent/it pries out smooth but with some resistance, I just recycle the shims and bearings from whatever carrier was in it onto the new carefully and don’t care whatever about the shims having a little burr/witness mark on the non-bearing edge from the bearing knife ripping them (and the carrier bearings ‘above’ / trapping them) off, they are the same thickness and get smashed flat After the carrier bearings are pressed back on the load bearing surface anyway (/hacker). All carriers have measured the same for me for bearing mounting and ring gear flange locations, but don’t take my word for it.

Carrier bearings pressed on there with a lot of force / ridiculous interference fit though. Diff carrier in the freezer and bearings in the toaster oven and a good press/bearing knife helps a lot.

Carrier bearings have super low revs on them (wheel speed) and don’t have nearly as difficult a job to do as the pinion bearings.

Honestly, if it isn’t lubricated by toothpaste and the pinion bearings and seal are any good you’ll break the axle shafts and/or diff carrier way before either the 1031 or 1030 R&P gears, so I wouldn’t bother making any distinction or going to any trouble to obtain one or the other whatever if your current axle runs quiet/fine. Maybe for enduros and/or 24+ hours of very hot/brutal use, larger gears/bearings matter with a cooler or finned/alloy cover. For most of us it probably doesn’t at all.

I try not to buy any new parts whatsoever other than gaskets/seals as needed/at the very most and have a bearing or two on hand and measuring tools to do it the “right” way just in case. I put the diff carrier in a plastic bag or 3 in the freezer and aim the heat gun right at the bearings point blank and knife them off brutally with the air ratchet with the bearing knife under the shims.

The correct Volvo tool pulls on the carrier bearing cage requiring new bearings and actually taking the time to shim it and cough up $60-100 in bearings that hopefully stack up to the same height of the old, what’s the fun in that? Setup bearings of all the brands used hat match perfectly with Volvo tool is the sterile/fancy way to do it though.

Don’t forget to give one axle shaft a hair cut for the g80.

Make sure the wheel seals aren’t leaking and the grease hasn’t been washing out of the wheel bearings or fouling up the parking brake while the axle shafts are removed?

Last edited by Kjets On a Plane; 01-08-2019 at 04:07 AM..
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Old 01-08-2019, 02:33 AM   #11
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James, I have seen a bunch of 1030 rear ends get blow'd up whereas 1031s are much, much more durable.

Tarlord, you should just find a 1031 and put your G80 in that, on a bench. You will hate your life way less.
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Old 01-08-2019, 03:37 AM   #12
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I have a couple of complete 1031 240 rear axles already out in Lebanon. Get in touch if you want one.
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:02 AM   #13
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James, I have seen a bunch of 1030 rear ends get blow'd up whereas 1031s are much, much more durable.

Tarlord, you should just find a 1031 and put your G80 in that, on a bench. You will hate your life way less.
They're ~10 years older running around on toothpaste with smaller pinion bearings that are all hammered out give or take a somewhat loose pinion nut and making a little noise already when that happens .

It's not like anyone tears down and rebuilds a 1030 and compares them side to side.
All the rally guys run them rebuilt with cheap jeep gears in 4.30-4.88s and break axle splines/carriers. Rather than spend silly dough for 1031 4.30+ overseas or even bother distinguishing between 1030 and 1031, they convert to toyota V6 8" or better after they get sick of breaking carriers or axle shafts.


The jeep guys with the same or weaker gears than 1030 snaps the axle shafts at the splines same as the volvo guys with open carrier once in a while (rare since it's often the front and isn't doing burnouts so much as crawling over something).

With some freezer time, it's possible to hack a G80 in a generic 240 axle in ~2 hours actual labor without lifting a heavy axle or anything. If it's quiet and the pinion bearings aren't wasted, run as is and save some time?

1031 is good for longevity and more hypoid angle and for towing and the like.
For beating on the car, either in good shape it really doesn't matter apart form enduro stuff.

But whatever, buy a 1031 from roy and change the inevitable trailing arm bushings?
Can't go wrong there either.

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