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Old 10-23-2018, 05:32 PM   #26
Wren
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Sadly, the '93 condenser doesn't bolt up in the '85- radiator support. I wish it did as it would have saved me a lot of work fitting universal parallel-flow condensers on the older cars that I've worked on. Additionally, the '93-only condenser is now only available from Volvo. No more in the aftermarket, which is a shame as the one from Volvo is around $350. They do, however, work great in the '86+ cars.

While the '93-style compressor was a 1-year only affair in the 240, 940's used that same Seiko compressor through '95. Some versions that I have seen here in the eastern US have a small diameter pulley for the 240's while I've been told that they also came with the larger pulleys when installed in 240's in other parts of the country that are the same diameter as used on 940's.

Also, the late 240 pusher fan won't fit in the early sheetmetal either at least not without modifications. Yeah, yeah, I know....

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Old 10-23-2018, 05:53 PM   #27
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As far as I can tell all AC compressors are more or less the same, dimensionally. I also happen to know that the 260 radiator is 24*17". Remember I am not afraid of cutting sheetmetal and fabricating bracketry.

https://coldhose.com/parallel-flow-c...nser-1693.html

https://coldhose.com/compressors/new...ompressor.html

Any reason either of these won't work?
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:48 PM   #28
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Forgot to add: going to wire the electric fan the way it works in a 940. No need for a wimpy pusher fan to get in the way of my intercooler.
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Old 01-04-2019, 03:12 PM   #29
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Update: ended up scoring a complete '93 system. Just ordered a new receiver, and o-ring kit.

One last question, pertaining the orifice tube: should I get a self-adjusting one? What brand should I get?
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Old 01-04-2019, 03:23 PM   #30
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I did a mistake by not replacing tubes on mine back few years ago.
With new compressor, dryer, valve and o rings it still leaking a bit. Sucks, but have no money to redo it. BECAUSE R12 IS SO EXPENSIVE and hard to find a shop with a machine that works with the system in California and thats what I decide to stay with back in a day.
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Old 01-04-2019, 03:31 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by smeha View Post
I did a mistake by not replacing tubes on mine back few years ago.
With new compressor, dryer, valve and o rings it still leaking a bit. Sucks, but have no money to redo it. BECAUSE R12 IS SO EXPENSIVE and hard to find a shop with a machine that works with the system in California and thats what I decide to stay with back in a day.
I mean, you can vacuum out the R12 and oil and do this instead if you don't find a 93 to lift the metric fittings from...

https://parts.smithvolvo.com/p/Volvo.../9145666.html?
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Old 01-04-2019, 03:38 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
I mean, you can vacuum out the R12 and oil and do this instead if you don't find a 93 to lift the metric fittings from...

https://parts.smithvolvo.com/p/Volvo.../9145666.html?
If I recall after fixing the system I paid about $300-400 to a shop for flushing, tests and filling with fresh R12 and oil my system. I will wait till it will stop working and redo hoses and switch to R134a. Also, you don't need volvo retrofit. With new compressor there all I need is a flush, new dryer, R134a fittings and proper oil with R134a

Kit is $200+
Fittings and dryer by themselves are about $50-70 total
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Old 01-04-2019, 03:48 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
I mean, you can vacuum out the R12 and oil and do this instead if you don't find a 93 to lift the metric fittings from...

https://parts.smithvolvo.com/p/Volvo.../9145666.html?
I'm not aware of any metric fittings in 240 AC. Mine are all standard o-ring fittings. The first ones here: https://coldhose.com/fittings.html

It really pays off in the end to learn to do your own AC work on an old Volvo. Shops will charge a lot for work you can do yourself if you put your mind to it.
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Old 01-04-2019, 03:50 PM   #34
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The 93 R134 240 stuff uses metric nuts with standard hose sizes. It's kind of a pain in the ass. I'm now off to find a 93-95 940 T compressor to accumulator line to make sure that stuff all plays nice together as the 240 line is guaranteed to fail in my application.
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Old 01-04-2019, 03:51 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarton View Post
I'm not aware of any metric fittings in 240 AC. Mine are all standard o-ring fittings. The first ones here: https://coldhose.com/fittings.html

It really pays off in the end to learn to do your own AC work on an old Volvo. Shops will charge a lot for work you can do yourself if you put your mind to it.
Dave B.
Dave you are partially right, but how many people on here own A/C machines? So after you do the A/C work on broken/vacuumed car, then most of us still need to go to the shop for flush/vacuum/refill.
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Old 01-04-2019, 05:45 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeha View Post
Dave you are partially right, but how many people on here own A/C machines? So after you do the A/C work on broken/vacuumed car, then most of us still need to go to the shop for flush/vacuum/refill.
Never heard of flushing an AC system, but I don't see why you can't do that yourself. And if you're worried about evacuating freon to save the ozone, not needed with hydrocarbon refrigerant like Duracool.
Other than a vacuum pump, this is the only AC machine I own:

Last edited by dbarton; 01-04-2019 at 05:50 PM..
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Old 01-04-2019, 09:30 PM   #37
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If you have had a compressor failure or unaware of such on a new-to-you vehicle it is best to flush the entire system. I took mine apart by each and every hose and part and flushed with brake cleaner. New 'O' rings throughout. Otherwise you are going to have trash circulating until it clogs up the expansion valve and stops the whole system.

The gauge set at HF is about $50. A vacuum pump at HF is about $80. Mine has restored 3 cars and works fine.

Cheaper than an hour of an AC tech's time.
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Old 01-04-2019, 10:08 PM   #38
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Boys,

Self-adjusting orifice tube or Volvo orifice tube?
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Old 01-04-2019, 10:12 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Boys,

Self-adjusting orifice tube or Volvo orifice tube?
I don't think I have that in my 1988 240, but again I ran original design with R12
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Old 01-04-2019, 10:33 PM   #40
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Nah, this is 91-93 specific
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:44 AM   #41
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I don’t have an orifice tube in my older setup but, when I was researching updating to the 91-93 system everyone said go with self adjusting.
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:38 PM   #42
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You can buy AC flush in a compressed can at most Auto Parts store. Ive use it several times on my system then I used compressed air through the whole system.
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:52 PM   #43
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A quart of A/C flush at NAPA is $35. It took 2 cans of brake cleaner at $2.50 each to do the same thing. The condenser is the most difficult part. Fill it with the liquid and slosh that around in a removed unit then blow it out with compressed air.
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Old 01-06-2019, 09:57 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Boys,

Self-adjusting orifice tube or Volvo orifice tube?
Per the UK wizards on the 700/900 Maint pages (Volvo Klub UK) they strongly recommend the variable OT. I paid the $36 for mine which is sleeping in the 940 as it is being repainted.... and also winter season in NW GA. Per the Klub..... the VOT makes all the difference in traffic and stop/go conditions; no real benefit at highway speeds. I dont recall if I took a pic of the P/N in my build thread or not.... too long ago.

So NOW you are going complete '93 system in your early vehicle..... which Wren declares for which the condenser doesn't fit with butchery? I'm still holding my full 93 system for my 242.... awaiting to see your photos of "making it fit".......
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:28 PM   #45
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Everything fits with some creativity!
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Old 01-06-2019, 02:11 PM   #46
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The condenser bolts right in after drilling a few holes. I have a complete 93 system in my 80 245.
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Old 01-06-2019, 02:13 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
I mean, you can vacuum out the R12 and oil and do this instead if you don't find a 93 to lift the metric fittings from...

https://parts.smithvolvo.com/p/Volvo.../9145666.html?
You don’t “vacuum out” the oil. You have to pull the system apart and clean/drain stuff.
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Old 01-06-2019, 02:32 PM   #48
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I have the 1976 242 apart now and have done the heater core and blower motor. I want the AC to work so do I have to get the AC core from a 93 in there or can I use that from the 1976 and change everything else? I wanted to do the rough in if you will and finish hooking it up in the summer.

...michael
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:38 PM   #49
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Quote:
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Everything fits with some creativity!
Share your pics of the necessary “creativity “. I intend to run the 93 system with a 960 compressor with my whiteblock B5244T5.
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Old 01-11-2019, 02:24 PM   #50
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Are you putting a whiteblock in your 940?

Getting it to fit involves poking 4 holes on the uprights of the core support and bending some thin sheetmetal 75 degrees. Hardly a drastic change. Just checked last night in fact
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