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Adrian's '78 245 DL+16v

OK, so I've been driving around with the ominous rattle for the last couple of days tuning the hoopt, and trying to decipher exactly what it is. It's really strange when it comes on and off, here's the symptom list:

- Both wheels in the air, clinking from inside pumpkin when I rotate one wheel.
- At part-throttle cruise, clinking in relation to vehicle speed.
- At WOT, it goes away.
- Under hard braking, it goes away.
- It skips a beat when I go over large bumps.
- Turning doesn't affect it.

I'm really hesitant to pull the diff cover, both because (a) I'm loving driving the car to & from work, and (b) I really don't want to pull the trigger on a new diff. :-(

Think the noise from in the pumpkin on jackstands is a red herring, and it's a u-joint? What about e-brake shoes?


related: how late is Summit's sales line open?
 
When faced with the decision of whether to

A) Spend $400 on a torsen for a POS Dana 30 that might just keep breaking
B) Cut my wrists at the thought of option A
or C) Find a way to put something that doesn't blow chunks in

I briefly considered B and then went for C.

Seriously dude don't waste money on a true track, that's just painful. I would either mod a G80, just put a 1 legger in until you are prepared to put a real diff in, or go weldie.
 
G80 it, decide later. At the junkyard here they are $69 with the ring and pinion, so get it with a 4.10, sell the r&p, free G80.

I might change my mind after I drive the mod'd G80 in a week. Will let you know how much it sucks or doesn't suck.
 
Wiley's trying to convince me it's time to put a real rear end in, but unfortunately I'm so happy to just have the hoopt on the road again right now I just want to get it back on the road, hence why I'm driving it with what sounds like a timebomb.

I know that it'll snowball like crazy if I go with option C, because if I'm going to even break out the welder, I see no reason to keep the stock rear geometry, and it's going to be another 6 months of the car being tinkered with on what little weekend time I've got anymore. :-(

I haven't paid attention to the D30 woe stories, will they hold like 250 ft-lbs for any amount of time? It seems like there's a few folks around who's haven't blown up, but is that kind of like the rare magic M46s that just won't die? I'm not planning on turning up the boost for a long time yet, if nothing blows up diff-wise I'll probably be keeping it around for 2-3 years.
 
I haven't blown up my M47 or my 1030 yet. Probably around 250lb-ft to the wheels on a dynojet. I take it easy on 3rd gear pulls, though.
 
Left is a michelin 225-40-18... right is the new hotness...
2010-06-12192022.jpg
 
I'll be pushing it into the garage again tonight and it'll hopefully drive again.

I'm on the fence though - should I bite the bullet, strip the interior, and go full battlewagon? It's not exactly a super comfy daily cruise as it sits, the interior is awful cush, but I never drive it except for hoonery. What say ye?
 
adrianpike said:
I'm on the fence though - should I bite the bullet, strip the interior, and go full battlewagon? It's not exactly a super comfy daily cruise as it sits, the interior is awful cush, but I never drive it except for hoonery. What say ye?
Click to expand...
Door panels, headliner, and carpet cuts the noise & droning. I'm glad I race in a class that requires I keep that stuff.
 
How much does does the interior seriously weigh, aside from the front seats, which should of course go away? 100-150lb? Leave it in IMO.
 
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