• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

What wideband to buy?

i have used a few inovative guages on friends cars but the AEM on my own. i find the AEM much easier to read at a quick glance and its much easier to install as everything is in the guage itself unlike the inovative with a small unit you must mount somewhere. and the aem is self calibrating where the inovative stuff has a ridiculous calibration setup.
 
epjetta said:
i have used a few inovative guages on friends cars but the AEM on my own. i find the AEM much easier to read at a quick glance and its much easier to install as everything is in the guage itself unlike the inovative with a small unit you must mount somewhere. and the aem is self calibrating where the inovative stuff has a ridiculous calibration setup.
Click to expand...

That is good info. What kind of ridiculous setup?
 
Likewise to what Olov said... LC1, GlowShift, AutoLite and AEMs can go for as little as $163 shipped on eBay, but usually exactly around $200 :)
 
i think its ridiculous to have to wire in an external switch for the calibration (that they dont explain very well at all about how it wires up) i ended up looking online for a good explanation of the wiring. the AEM unit is power, ground and plug the sensor in. DONE.
 
I got my innovate LC-1 for $163 shipped on ebay, and they work great, but the innovate MTX-L has a bit nicer gauge, is self-contained in the gauge, and seems to be easier to set up, for about $30 more. If I were to do it again, I might've went with the MTX-L, but I'm not complaining - It's pretty hard to go wrong with either one.
 
I have heard the 0-1V simulated output does not work well with LH. I have also heard that some have adjustable output, as in you can adjust stoich. I think it was the Jaw that was adjustable. Would this work better with LH?

I have also heard some are rebranded, such as the ones Summit sells. Are they all made by the same manufacturer?

Which has the best data logging features?

Which are the easiest to read?

Sorry not trying to highjack this thread, but I have been looking too, and was thinking of starting a thread.
 
I would stay away from the lc1. I really like my LM2 and have always had good luck with the zeitronix stuff.
 
I love my aem. A very simple install. The hardest part was adding a 2nd o2 bung, if you want cal that hard.
 
vlvman said:
I have heard the 0-1V simulated output does not work well with LH. I have also heard that some have adjustable output, as in you can adjust stoich. I think it was the Jaw that was adjustable. Would this work better with LH?

I have also heard some are rebranded, such as the ones Summit sells. Are they all made by the same manufacturer?

Which has the best data logging features?

Which are the easiest to read?

Sorry not trying to highjack this thread, but I have been looking too, and was thinking of starting a thread.
Click to expand...

i've got a jaw, and i'm getting a second from someone, but if you can afford another i'd suggest buying something else. the jaw was pretty good at first, but i think i need to update the firmware and/or recalibrate the sensor, the worst part is the info is not very solid, a lot is just suggestions on forums but no clear cut how-to's
 
Yep. It has two programmable analog out puts, one that you can use for the gauge, and one that you could presumably use for a narrowband output (or whatever else you'd like to use it for).
 
I have used both the lc1 and the 14point7 slc wideband. My lc1 was nice at first but after a while I started to have problems with it not keeping its calibration. My slc so far has been pretty solid. The other thing I have noticed is the signal from the lc1 is much noisier than that of the slc. However, the widebands are on different cars and I know the electrical system my lc1 on is pretty noisy in general so I dont know if it is related to the car or the gauge.
 
So many choices for around the 200 mark. I had an LC1, took it out in favor for an AEM. The AEM is way less complicated to wire than the LC1, and it self calibrates each time. They all use the same sensor, so not much of a favor in that dept. Look into the Autometer setups too. Nice thing about the Autometer gauge, is its programmed to not turn on until it sees 13.5 volts (you can turn it off) so even if you have your car "on", the sensor is not all heated doing nothing. You can also wire in a relay on the fuel pump output to turn a wideband on. All sorts of ways to wire them.

The one thing I disliked about the LC1, is your laptop needs a serial port to program.....my new computer does not have that and the adapter was like 40 bucks from Staples.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top