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Techwagon! Mark's CarPC/MS/Stereo/etc thread

scottyd said:
They did it because they want to make sure you drop the pan and replace the filter in there. And yes, it does make a mess.
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And that's ANOTHER thing- everything ELSE on my damned car has an EXTERNAL filter. Why not the most complex hydro-mechanical device? Give me a threaded cartridge filter, two drain plugs (one on the torque convertor) and I'd dump and swap fluid far more regularly.

I'm sure there's some arcane penny-pinching reason for them to put it inside, but my guess is they build them that way because that's the way they started building them in the fifties or sixties and perish forbid anything ever changes.:-P

M.
 
Stuff.



Removed some sound deadening preparing for butchery.



Did some looking/thinking/guessing regarding how much violence this will actually entail.

Here's the original, with my super-accurate "balance the shifter on top in vaguely the place it came from" measuring device.



And here's the replacement... pay attention to the yoke... the shifter location is back a fair amount farther and is wider to boot.


More worry perhaps is the lump next to it... this transmission has a coupla sensors in weird spots that I'm sure will prove frustrating/interesting.

Another angle to illustrate.



I'd imagine the biggest clearance issue will be the back one, but the side one (below the center access panel) could prove to be even worse. I need to figure out what each of these are and which I need (like reverse lights and speedo) and which I don't (like 1-4 skip shift). Maybe I'll get lucky and be able to remove one of the offending lumps.



And finally, something that was really important to me.



It's nothing special, but I installed this rod end on the clutch master cylinder tonight. That's right installed. The opposite of "removed". It felt really good to put even the smallest part together instead of taking it apart for a change.


M.
 
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Mark said:
And finally, something that was really important to me.

0417862f.jpg


It's nothing special, but I installed this rod end on the clutch master cylinder tonight. That's right installed. The opposite of "removed". It felt really good to put even the smallest part together instead of taking it apart for a change.


M.
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Mark that is what happens when you I do not help you...progress!:-P
 
Nonsense. I've been plenty unproductive in general with this project :oops:



One pic and this is from a few days ago. Intake is on, and as of tonight I finally installed the oilpan gasket I bought like two years ago. I'm some red Locktite away from the flywheel being installed. Pressure plate and clutch and then the savagery to the trans tunnel begins. :twisted:

M.
 
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You sure you want to red loctite the flywheel bolts? Also, I've measured and semi-test fit the T56 in my 242, and the biggest offending lump is the reverse lockout solenoid next to the shifter. Everything else fits pretty damn good actually.
 
Poik said:
You sure you want to red loctite the flywheel bolts?
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I'm just going off anecdotal evidence from Camaro forums, honestly. It seems a little excessive to me too. I'll maybe do more research today. I read some blather about the actual GM threadlocker having sealant in it. Unfortunately I find Camaro forums are often filled with datum of the "Don't-eat-PopRocks-and-Coke-your-stomach-will-explode" sort, which like urban myths, are disseminated madly without any actual factual evidence. Citation needed.

I'm just glad I didn't have to buy the flywheel bolts... Apparently they're not readily available- even ARP doesn't make 'em. The only source is Lakewood and they're 54 bucks for six!



Poik said:
Also, I've measured and semi-test fit the T56 in my 242, and the biggest offending lump is the reverse lockout solenoid next to the shifter. Everything else fits pretty damn good actually.
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Maybe mine is farther back? my tape measuring when the engine was in indicated It'd be about four to six inches rearward. Is your T56 also an LT1 GM one?

I'm likely gonna delete the CAGS solenoid and I considered the reverse lockout one, but I read it's terrifyingly easy to hit reverse instead of fifth without it... Too bad, because it'd sure make the swap more painless.

I'm also curious to see if I can use the programmable VDO speedo to get a speed signal -I've read varying opinions regarding that. What'd be really cool is to have the reverse solenoid work like OEM (which apparently engages it at like 3mph or somesuch. If not it'll just get wired to the brake pedal, but I dislike that because it means you could accidently hit it during a 6-5 downshift under braking.

MOAR RESEARCH NEEDED.

M.
 
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Mine is an LS1 T56, but I think the length to shifter is the same, or damn near close at least. 4-6" seems like a lot. It's possible I measured wrong, but that seems like a pretty big margin of error. Does the SBC like stick back into the tunnel already? My bellhousing mounting face is about flush with the plane of the firewall, and I really thought I measured the shifter to be damn near centered in the hole.

Not sure how I'm going to do my reverse lockout thing yet either, but I do know that I want to keep it. Would be possible to do an M46 style thing but with a switch at the base to unblock reverse. If VEMS can do a speed triggered output, I'll probably just do that though.
 
That gives me hope- The original trans was nearly flush, or even a little forward, depending on where you measure from. Unless my bellhousing is way deeper than yours... I do have that crazy cast LT1 flywheel that's over an inch thick, but I still doubt it's inches different.

I've pulled the shifter, so maybe I'll yank the reverse solenoid too so I can snug it up inside the tunnel without cutting first and see how far forward it sits.

I spent my last day at the studio I was at surfing the net for flywheel install notes about the only thing I found is this in the Ram Clutches FAQ, dealing with people stupid enough to ask if they should use star washers on something with 70+ ft/lbs torque spec.

"RAM recommends using red loctite or similar compounds to lock the flywheel bolts into the crank. Star washers will tend to eat up the flywheel around the bolt holes and eventually make it difficult to get the bolts in or out of the flywheel. This is especially true with aluminum flywheels."

So I guess I will run red locktite. :e-shrug:

M.
 
Poik said:
Not sure how I'm going to do my reverse lockout thing yet either, but I do know that I want to keep it. Would be possible to do an M46 style thing but with a switch at the base to unblock reverse. If VEMS can do a speed triggered output, I'll probably just do that though.
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I'd just wire the vss signal into an rpm window switch and call it a day. They're like, 50 bucks from summit.
 
Rimp bump. Got some pretty-sure-they're-genuine Advan AVS-5s for cheap. 17x8/17x9, 5x4.5

HOWEVER,



They're currently all different finishes. One's original, another a poorly "professional" refinish that may be a powdercoat, a third is a bad rattlecan yellow and the last is badly sanded.

Gonna strip em all and likely go white or silver.



M.
 
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Thank you for that generous round of indifference. :-P

Despite having a zillion more pressing things to do, I stripped down the yellow rim this evening.



Almost done, ran out of abrasives and daylight.

Thinking 215/45-17 and 235/45-17 for a slight stretch... thoughts?


M.
 
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+Kardboard+ said:
You need a pic of the cat playing fort in the wheels. :lol:
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I dunno, she just avoids 'em. Guess she'll only play with three-piece rims or something... damn cats are so finicky.





Tonight's progress. Fortunately the "professionally" finished one turned out to be spray paint, likely from a rattlecan. More yellow lurked beneath the black though. Nice to see them approaching one color anyway.

Out of paint stripper now. Off to the store tomorrow again.
 
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Mark said:
I dunno, she just avoids 'em. Guess she'll only play with three-piece rims or something... damn cats are so finicky.
.
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:lol:

Exactly the problem.
large.jpg


Anyways they're looking good man. I think they'd look great silver.
 
Nice Mark, should look awesome! Personally, I like 225/45/17s for the front as even they have a slight stretch on 8" wide wheels and the height is a bit closer to matching the rears
 
lol, sick wheels.

what kind of abrasives did you use to get the paint off? I have to do that to the bronze wheels in the gay raj
 
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