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Old 12-06-2018, 11:40 AM   #376
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So Camry girl didn't lie about hitting me, but she claimed that she successfully pulled out and then got hit by the Honda.

Dashcam FTW.
Dude I’m just now seeing this. It’s always a ****ing Camry.

I’ve watched the video like 3 times now and it still doesn’t make sense to me. Looks like 2 cars were coming the opposite direction and the Camry was attempting to make a right. After the first car passed, looks like the Camry just floored it and ran into the side of the accord
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Old 12-11-2018, 03:27 PM   #377
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So, small update. I discovered that the adapter and banjo on the turbo oil feed were totally loose. And all the driveshaft bolts. All of em.

Tested my rust skills on the battery tray which I might not even use.




Current problem is that I can't get the pedal box out of the wagon. I undid all the bolts and linkages and got it to move a little but no more. Do I have to drop the column or something?

Also I'm outta zipties...
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Old 12-12-2018, 01:51 PM   #378
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RE: Pedal Box -
There are 2 bolts above/forward the brake pedal that hold a bracket and bushing to the steering column that need to be removed. Reference below pic, courtesy of Arn02.
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Fiited the brake pedal and tossed the clutch.

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Old 12-12-2018, 03:36 PM   #379
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Got the pedals out thanks to some vigorous use of a pry bar on the column.
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Old 12-23-2018, 07:56 PM   #380
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New fuel pump. Looks like the diesel still includes a wire for it so I shouldn't have to run one, but I'll have to do wires for the speedo. Looks like I can use the diesel lines under the car too. Might have to shorten the tube cause I can't get it to seat all the way into the tank. Also gotta put a filter in somewhere. Heatshrink in the tank a good idea?

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Old 12-23-2018, 08:25 PM   #381
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Most heat sink isn't really fuel-rated. It could break down and clog your pump filter/sock. Definitely look up the product you used and see though.
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:44 PM   #382
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So I pulled the fuel filter off the wagon for the banjo fitting and I could feel the element banging around inside and it was just a hunk of rust. Might be why the temporary engine blew up at 7psi in 2017.. Makes me wonder about replacing the current injectors.

And the banjo was rusted though and leaking so I had to get a new one anyway. I used a normal 240 filter mounted on the firewall because it seemed like the easiest way to do it. Got it all together only to find out I somehow made a hole in the return hardline. Fixed that and now there's a really small leak on the other end of the hardline.


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Old 01-07-2019, 04:47 PM   #383
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You may not want the filter that close to the turbo down pipe. Just my opinion though. Hope you sort the leaks out though!! Doin work. Love it
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Old 01-07-2019, 11:19 PM   #384
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Downpipe is wrapped, not really worried about it.

I believe I have all the bare necessities in place for the motor to run, but when I turn the key to start nothing happens. I'm thinking it's due to the auto neutral safety. Anyone know, off the top of their head, how to bypass it?



EDIT: So manual cars have a loop connector to bypass the neutral safety. Moved that over from the wagon and still nothing.

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Old 01-08-2019, 01:42 AM   #385
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Not enough battery juice?
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:15 PM   #386
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It cranks fine now. Just had to move the starter wire on the firewall connector.

I have power to the coil but no spark at the coil. Pretty sure I got the wires the right way round.

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Old 01-13-2019, 10:57 PM   #387
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What does this thingy do and do I need it? Connected to coil negative.

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Old 01-14-2019, 12:01 PM   #388
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Where does it go from there? I don’t think that’s needed but someone may have rigged it to bypass another wire..?
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Old 01-14-2019, 12:11 PM   #389
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Looks like a capacitor. Aftermarket noise surpression? Removing it shouldn’t cause any issues.
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Old 01-14-2019, 03:50 PM   #390
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If that black wire comes from your ignition control box (Chrysler or EZK?), it should go to Terminal 1. The blue wires on #15 are +12volts, and red/white usually goes to tach.
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Old 01-14-2019, 04:04 PM   #391
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I mean the white wire and gray box. Black wire was for the efan relay.
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Old 01-14-2019, 04:21 PM   #392
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As culberro said, the gray box is probably a filter capacitor for ignition noise. You can unplug it and see if you get rpm-varying audio noise on the radio (once running).

Are you using the original power stage / ignition module? It would have been in prime crunch territory and may be dead now.
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Old 01-14-2019, 04:52 PM   #393
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Quote:
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As culberro said, the gray box is probably a filter capacitor for ignition noise. You can unplug it and see if you get rpm-varying audio noise on the radio (once running).

Are you using the original power stage / ignition module? It would have been in prime crunch territory and may be dead now.
Ah, okay. Powerstage wiring harness got chewed up a bit by the battery but I patched it up and it should be good to go. Still need a new EZK box..
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Old 01-15-2019, 03:23 PM   #394
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Why do you need a new EZK box? If it was mounted in the original orientation, connector on bottom, I think you can pour water all over it and the inside (and connector pins) will stay dry. There's a lip and groove on the box that keeps it dry unless water is going up hill. Maybe try a new ign module first?
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Old 01-15-2019, 03:29 PM   #395
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I cleaned it up and reflowed some ugly solder joints but the hall sensor still isn't getting any power.
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Old 01-15-2019, 07:39 PM   #396
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Intercooler is fairly beat up but nothing too concerning. Not bent or anything.





I don't think the battery's gonna work, which sucks since it's virtually brand new. I'm wondering if it's better (cheaper) to relocate the fat one or just buy a smaller one..
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Old 01-15-2019, 08:47 PM   #397
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Quote:
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I cleaned it up and reflowed some ugly solder joints but the hall sensor still isn't getting any power.
If you want to test the EZ117K box by itself, connect ground to pin 20, +12V to pin 6, and measure pin 4 which is power to hall sensor. Pin 4 should be just slightly less than your +12V voltage (roughly a 0.6V diode drop lower).
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Old 02-04-2019, 08:18 PM   #398
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Well. It ran and drove. For like.. 3 miles. But I'm calling that a success.






The brakes are so bad. The booster is hooked up and I don't think the rotors would still be rusty after standing on them a few times. Legitimately worse than using the handbrake. No grinding or funky pedal feel.
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Old 02-07-2019, 02:26 PM   #399
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Drives okayish, I think I need another MAF because in boost it runs uber rich. (Or just more boost..) I found the current MAF in the bottom of my parts pile. I don't remember where it came from. In total I have 4 007s and only this one works at all. Still has that weird thing where it occasionally hiccups for a split second. Probably gonna go away when it warms up like it did last winter. Also it doesn't idle until it's warm. Idle keeps hunting up and down and it dies occasionally. Idles perfect when warm. Exact opposite of how the wagon was when I got it. That would idle perfectly when cold but warm it would do the same thing. I still don't know how I fixed it, just went away after the engine rebuild.

Drove 45 miles without a radiator fan so I can conclude that they're simply dead weight.

Some pics. Stanced af with them diesel sprangz.





My intake rig using stock diesel box and some 7 series tube, also showing radiator bracket. My grinding skills are getting better.



EDIT: Oh also, the ignition power doesn't turn off if the engine is still running. If I take out the key the engine keeps running until I pull the power wire to the coil, then everything shuts off.

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Old 02-08-2019, 11:18 PM   #400
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Installed exhaust and stuff. I wired a kill switch as a "temporary" fix for the ignition and it does work. Eventually.



Here's that cold idle.






I like how the exhaust fits, tucked up behind the valence. And don't let that wet carwash pic fool you, there's still a bunch of grime stuck to the paint from being parked under the trees.
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