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Old 11-12-2018, 03:16 PM   #101
R32RennSport
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Excellent David. This project is really shaping up nicely! I wish I could find time to get out to the garage and continue on with my Amazon, this definitely is motivation!
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:52 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by vintagewrench View Post
Thanks, after a lot of planning the bar is coming along OK.

Yes, he is a talented and very clever man!

I'm also a fabricator and engine and general machinest so I do things a bit differently with what I have at hand. I use large dia. ball-ended roughing mills and multiple-tooth end mills with inserts in a large vertical milling machine w/a tilting vice and can cut an end quickly.

The blade teeth in a HD vertical band saw work well for other the other shaping needed while holding the tube by hand and swinging it back and forth on the saw table, almost works like an aggressive file. Finish off by chamfering the OD of the end on a large floor pedestal mounted horizontal grinder.

Can finish off a joint this way quickly. The welding is by a mig which can be done much faster with a somewhat different finished look with about the same strength as when using a heli-arc.

The tubing is 1.750 DOM .093 mild steel.
I'm a fabricator, too! I used to build bike frames and mitered on a mill with hole saws, but those tubes are much thinner and lighter than roll cage tubing. I'm gathering material to build a tube frame RWD mid engine Karmann Ghia so I'm moving up on tubing specs. I have a Bridgeport and I'm shopping for a lathe. I think mitering on a lathe might be the way to go, lots of U tube on that, but would like to see some pics of your mill set up, if you have the time. Keep up the good work!
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Old 11-18-2018, 08:41 PM   #103
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I'm a fabricator, too! I used to build bike frames and mitered on a mill with hole saws, but those tubes are much thinner and lighter than roll cage tubing. I'm gathering material to build a tube frame RWD mid engine Karmann Ghia so I'm moving up on tubing specs. I have a Bridgeport and I'm shopping for a lathe. I think mitering on a lathe might be the way to go, lots of U tube on that, but would like to see some pics of your mill set up, if you have the time. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your interest, the set up has all been taken down for now after finishing all of the tubes, but I use a vice similar to this one: https://www.travers.com/super-precis...vises/p/36138/
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Old 11-18-2018, 08:46 PM   #104
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The OD needs a rebuild this winter and an old, but unused IPD upgrade kit for the D-type was obtained from NorthNH. It consists of heavier clutch springs, a new oil pump relief spring that needs to be shimmed by .060" and instructions to drill out the "operating oil relief valve hole" to .070 and use 80 weight oil. Although using the thick oil and producing a higher oil pressure with the pump will drain more power when the OD is engaged.

The engine is a 115 hp B18B, and the VSCCA rules prohibit using a B20 or boring or stroking it. When it is modified it is unlikely it will produce any more than the 150 hp which is the maximum limit reported that an M40 transmission can handle.

Would like to hear from anyone that has used this combination in hard use about how well it held up for them or any other recommendations that will help it to survive. Also looking for a source for higher friction competition OD clutch linings. Any help would be appreciated.

Last edited by vintagewrench; 11-19-2018 at 05:10 PM..
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Old 11-19-2018, 06:19 PM   #105
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Thanks for your interest, the set up has all been taken down for now after finishing all of the tubes, but I use a vice similar to this one: https://www.travers.com/super-precis...vises/p/36138/
Nice setup, nice vise, those Wiltons must be made out of gold!!
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Old 12-27-2018, 08:50 PM   #106
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Just about finished with constructing the roll bar for the 1800s. It is built to SCCA rules with the rear set of diagonal bars lowered a bit for better side impact protection. It is made up of 1 3/4" dia. .092 wall thickness drawn over mandrel seamless tubing. It is bolted in with backup plates to structural areas of the chassis, yet can be removed in 15 minutes and the rear upholstery reinstalled quickly for non-racing use.

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Old 01-02-2019, 10:49 AM   #107
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Wow that's crazy! I love the sticker on the back window BTW, that was even true for my P2R. No one ever suspects the Volvo.
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Old 01-05-2019, 08:55 PM   #108
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Wow that's crazy! I love the sticker on the back window BTW, that was even true for my P2R. No one ever suspects the Volvo.
Glad to hear you enjoy it, a lot of people like it and in the pits at VSCCA races 100s take photos of it! Its a sticker that Dave Barton made up and used to sell.
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:59 AM   #109
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The bar looks good! Bonus on making it to where you can get it out of the car. Helps with paint and finish welding if nothing else.
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Old 01-13-2019, 03:41 PM   #110
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The bar looks good! Bonus on making it to where you can get it out of the car. Helps with paint and finish welding if nothing else.
Thanks, Yes it worked out well.

Fairly road salt free winter up here in New England until now. Just took the car off the road for the winter and this photo was taken last week after jacking it up and pressure washing the bottom of it before it came into the shop last week. Need to make more changes for the racing season that starts again at the beginning of May.

How has your 220 been working out recently? Need to get back to working on the '69 220 soon because I would like to go all vintage and try flat towing it with the wagon to the track.
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