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Old 08-11-2011, 05:07 PM   #51
OttoB
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Nice car!

140 series front brake hose fits fine, but I dont remember which one?
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:44 PM   #52
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Been nearly a year since I sourced the parts, time flies when you're having fun.
Haven't even driven it since last October or so.

Here we have the disk brake swap. On the left is the drum assembly, then rotor, softline, caliper adapter, brakeline clips and caliper bolt locks, hardline, caliper, caliper bolts, and dust shield. The drum brake assembly weighed in at 20#, the disk parts at 29#. 9# more unsprung weight sucks, but a small price to pay.


Started by removing the drum, bearings, softline, and backing plate/brake assembly.


The I mounted the caliper adapter and dust shield. Forgot to take pics... but this was the most involved part of the swap.

The caliper adapters are not identical, but either one can be used on either side. I spent a couple hours test fitting things to find the one that best located the pads on the rotor. There's a fine line here - too far outboard, the pads hang over the edge of the rotor; too far in and the dust seal rubs on the hub.

I (think I) wound up swapping side-to-side. This was mostly done to rotate the brake assembly enough that the brake line retainer on the backing plate so that it would clear the steering uprights. But too much rotation and there's not enough meat on the caliper adapter for the bolt.

Anyway, once I figured out which and where I wanted to install, I marked the holes, plug welded an existing hole that was adjacent to a new hole, and drilled away.

Once that was done, a simple matter of installing the rotor, bearings, and dust cap. Gave it a spin by hand to be sure there was no interference with anything.





Installed the caliper, and started bending the line. Hadn't done this before, but pretty easy. Only trick was cutting/flaring the new line - old Volvos are weird, in that they use a metric-style bubble flare on the caliper end (with 3/8x24 SAE thread) and SAE-style inverted (double) flare on the rest of it. Borrowed a flaring tool from the FLAPS, and after a few tries, got it pretty good... wound up having to do one over again due to a fluid leak, but not too big a deal.


Wrapped the line up and around the caliper, keeping it tight to the caliper to stay clear of the wheel.


Then hooked up the new softline.


My older son is getting to be a pro at bleeding brakes, even remarked when he started to feel solidity. And he doesn't grumble about the job like SWMBO does.

Easiest bleed ever, used my transmission funnel to get the brake fluid in. Why Volvo put the master on the frame rail is beyond me.

Put the tires back on, took it for a road test.

these are about the best feeling brakes I've ever driven. I bet a lot is the lack of power assist, but they are rock solid, easily modulated, and really stop the car nicely. Found a steep hill, and repeatedly laid into the brakes in an effort to elicit fade or misbehavior of any sort. Nope.

Hardest part of this job (other than pulling the old brakes at the JY surrounded by wasps) was figuring out how to position the caliper adapters. After that, gravy.

So, now that I have safety (seatbelts), cornering (tires), and stopping, it's time to investigate more power.

Like a lot more.

//edit - oh yeah, haven't addressed the shocks yet (they hit the calipers and limit steering). While it's still livable, the turning radius is on par with (or worse than) our 04 v70, a legendary bus-like turner if ever one existed.
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:24 AM   #53
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it's time to investigate more power. Like a lot more.
Picked this up last night, after a month and change of scouring CL, twenty minutes south. Getting lazy in my old age, would rather pay a little more to not spend hours on the road... probably has something to do with my wife not enjoying these little errands as co-driver.

Hauls ass, sounds good, shifts excellently, all the gauges were spot on. No AC, which I was halfway thinking of transplanting over. Probably for the best.

Anyone with bright ideas as to what to do next? Figure I should leave the PV intact until I can find a buyer for the B16/M4. Say goodbye to my little friend.

Anyone with bright ideas as to what parts off this thing are worth? Figure the wheels are worth a bit, but I need to keep them handy for rolling it around, and rear drive until I get the axle narrowed/redrilled.
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:30 AM   #54
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Sell all the lenses (headlights, etc)
Sell all the gray interior bits, if you can clean them up a bit and take good pictures, you should do all right.
Cut out the cowl panel and sell it
Sell the plastic grill in the cowl panel
If the weatherstripping is decent on the rear sail windows, you'll make out decent pulling them
Fenders and ground effects are haggard but you may find a buyer.
Is that an OEM paint job? Feel like it is a fairly uncommon color
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:32 AM   #55
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Roachy stang you got there bro.
I'd check E-bay for prices on the lights, gauges, cluster ect.
Wheels are best on CL.
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how psi stock cna support?

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Old 06-22-2012, 11:45 AM   #56
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Roachy is right. Paperwork is a mess, car's been wrecked and repainted, interior is horrid, but some of the plastic ought to clean up nice.

Never have sold stuff on Ebay, been a CL seller instead. Worth the headache? Tempted to run a mini pick n pull after I have my way with it.

But not sure just how much I want to sell just yet - might be able to work the cluster in, be nice to have full instrumentation and a tach.
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:51 AM   #57
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Check E-bay for comps even if you CL the stuff.
LKQ online [Pick your Part- the octopus yard] seems to keep a cap on used car parts prices.
E-bay is hit and miss, always has been but is more so lately.
Another 6% isn't the end of the world if your schwag actually sells.
Easy to tack that 6% back on the front.
E-bay is now a virtual big box convenience store.
You know like for people that realize that $7 shipping is cheaper than getting in the car, and driving,or waiting around all day for a flakey CL'er to not show up....
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:55 AM   #58
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I think the stock gauges are kind of crappy, I wouldn't mess it integrating them. You could probably match a tach and speedo to the autometer gauges in it for cheaper/easier.

Might try a local racing board before ebay? If you posted that here on CL and horsepowerjunkies, it would be gone.

Roachy or not, if you can get those seats clean and they aren't too busted, someone will buy them. Same with the carpet and door panels. Do you have access to a good carpet cleaning machine?
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:55 PM   #59
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Thanks Mav. Driver's seat is broken on the inboard side, guess that's common? Upholstery is pretty good, just filthy. Was halfway thinking of recycling them into the 544, stock chairs have no support or headrests; these at least have a lowback "look".

My mother in law is a neatfreak, so yeah, we can get a carpet cleaner.

re: the gauges, was thinking I could make new faces and fabricate a bezel to make them individual gauges. Hell, might be able to cut and paste the movements into separate gauges. Probably not worth the hassle.

I do have one of these as wall art, was thinking of using it.


Still not 100% sure how to begin. Guess the first step is to get the engine/trans out of the mustang, then roll it out back to gank parts off? Gotta find a deserted parking lot for teh donutz first...
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:17 PM   #60
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Sell the hatch, and cut the roof off, then donuts.
Carpet cleaner = pressure wash on a smooth surface, then push broom with laundry detergent.
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:35 PM   #61
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Tempted to do radical weight reduction for the lulz, then cut up and sell for scrap... but wife mentioned keeping it as yard art (she's a funny one, my lady she is) and my seven year old is chomping at the bit to use it as a playhouse. FINALLY someone's interested in my project, haha.

When test driving this thing yesterday, got on it in first gear halfway through a turn, stepped out nicely, steered back in line while reaching for second, a few ticks go by and the seller says, "Guess you've had a car with posi before, huh?"

I see how these cars were so successful, decent driving dynamics, loads of power, very controllable.
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:51 PM   #62
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I see BBK headers, any other go fast parts on it?
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:54 PM   #63
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I was stoked on the headers too, until I found out they're $200 on summit. 3" exhaust with flowmasters, MSD distributor cap (dist body says motorcraft, so that's that), heavy clutch, killer shifter of some sort. Throttle response is excellent, halfway wonder if it's got a lightweight flywheel.

Dunno, sucker goes pretty good.
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:57 PM   #64
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I'd chop the whole tunnel out of the 'Stang and graft that into the PV. Although the drivetrain sits a little high in a PV - at least compared to a 122.
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:59 PM   #65
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And PS - the rear end is pretty light and lively in my PV, with just a peppy B20 and an open diff in it (I have a Dana 27 LSD but I've never gotten around to putting it in) - I can only imagine how fun a 5.0/posi PV is going to be!
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:03 PM   #66
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Thanks John, appreciate the input on the tunnel, that's a great idea. Going to be fun trying to make all this stuff fit in there; plan is to remove the front sheetmetal, remove the battery tray area and PV tunnel, and see how low and far back I can make it fit. Would really like to put the rack and pinion in too, use the Ford column, etc.

And the crustang lights up the 245's (?) frighteningly easily. Can only imagine how the 205's are going to fare. Thinking of tubbing it a smoodge to get more tire under the rear fenders, but that's down the road apace. I can run the stock width rear axle with the four lugs and no fenders while I shake it down.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:06 PM   #67
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I'd chop the whole tunnel out of the 'Stang and graft that into the PV. Although the drivetrain sits a little high in a PV - at least compared to a 122.


See the cinder block thread for what not to do.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:08 PM   #68
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I've seen widened fenders as well. One trick is to just mash the wheel opening outward, which can look good if done smoothly. More bulge, less vertical. Another technique is to widen them along the top horizontal edge by slicing and adding in a strip of metal. this can also look pretty good if done in moderation, too much and you have an ugly big flat section in the rounded fender shape, even if it is all smooth.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:16 PM   #69
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Yeah, the oil drum widening of the fenders pisses me off to no end.

Before I lost my mind with the swap idea, I was planning to lower it as far as it could reasonably sit, then slicing the fenders perpendicular to the wheel opening, and bending the outer face out, filling the wedges with scrap metal. Similar to "mashing" as you suggest above.

Dunno. Fenders can wait a while. Maybe some bushwhacker bolt-ons!
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:16 PM   #70
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http://mustang.zeroentity.com/howto_...wto_glean.html

Might help with the seats. I remember the GT seats to be reasonably comfortable. Replace or repair that bottom cover, shoot them with some black dye, done. I'd rock them. The weave of the fabric doesn't look entirely out of place in an older car.

I don't know if that rear end is worth swapping just because there are so many others available. Might as well find a 5 lug for cheap with disc brakes and run that if you can. Or see how cheap the parts can be sourced and make your decision from that. Its your money, easy for us to spend it huh?
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:25 PM   #71
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Awesome link on the seats, thanks!

Appreciate the thoughts on the axle. Big plus for this one is the posi, assuming it truly is and I didn't just get the lucky double-spin the few times I romped on it. No matter what I get, it'll have to be narrowed considerably... there's a good rear end shop local, quoted $400 to narrow the PV's axle previously. Hopeful that they can supply or redrill the axles when narrowing. New drums, and ready to rock.

Thought about rear disks, but I think the drums will be okay; not like I have monster front brakes anyway. Might see about using the Mustang master to get dual circuit... but again, down the road.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:29 PM   #72
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Would you have to run mismatched wheels on the rear for the 4 lug?
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:35 PM   #73
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it'd be temporary. Though who knows, maybe I can find some 15x10 four lug minilites....
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:13 PM   #74
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Nice car! Definitely got me antsy to take my 210 off the road and get some real work done. Especially while one of my younger brothers will be staying with us.
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Old 06-22-2012, 08:18 PM   #75
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Just had the first of two prospects for the engine/trans come by. Wanted to buy the whole car. Tossed out $4K, he said, yeah, sounds about right. I freaked out and backtracked, "can't really sell it, then I'd have the POS Mustang to get rid of."

$500 for the engine/trans would lessen the swap price considerably.
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