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Old 01-03-2014, 11:16 PM   #201
kyle242gt
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Thanks for the kind words! Been cold and distracted lately, but weather's warmed back up. Tomorrow I think I'll sort the rest of the rust repair and start on the tunnel. now I'm calling myself out if I decide to drink beer and play Risk with my kids instead.
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:13 PM   #202
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Did the kick panel clearance the other day, worked out well enough. In retrospect I went about it kind of ass backwards - should have just sliced the footwell top/bottom/rear and folded out...

Got around to beadrolling the floors - had help from my kids and their friends running the roller (hence the wavy beads, haha). The HF tool is a pretty crappy flanger, but does a good enough job on the beads. Kind of wish it went bigger than 1/2" but you get what you get.

The driver's floor, and patch panel for the seat support, are done, but I pooped out after four hours or so and called it a day. I may be slow, but at least my work is poor!
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:26 PM   #203
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Floors are in and done, started work on the trans tunnel.

Using 1/2" emt to make the frame for it, then will cover with 16ga sheetmetal. Probably wind up rolling some beads as well.

Then comes the fun project of the firewall, mating it to the Mustang pedal section and what's left of the Volvo.
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:16 PM   #204
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This came up on a random image search for old skool hotrod flames (I was talking to my younger son about the colors used). Going to leave it here as inspiration.
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:41 AM   #205
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I like it.
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:47 AM   #206
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I don't know if gasser was the style you were going for, but it would be fun to build it exactly like the pic. Or just the paint scheme if you want to be more "conservative"!
Pretty cool that you found that pic either way!
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Old 04-19-2014, 10:46 PM   #207
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Been making slow progress. More difficult than expected to reconstruct the trans tunnel. The EMT skeleton is very helpful...
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:05 PM   #208
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This has been a lot of work, much more than expected. There's so little room between the gas pedal/bellhousing, gas pedal/steering column, engine block/framerail, it's been a major project getting the firewall/floor/tunnel sorted out.



That said, the sheetmetal work pretty well wrapped up. The two remaining pieces will be pretty simple to make.



Not sure what to work on next:
  • Fuel tank/pump/lines
  • Brake lines
  • Wiring (like a whole car worth)
  • Headers
  • Cooling
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Old 05-25-2014, 12:40 AM   #209
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Oooo, Oooo, I know! All of the above! I always thought it would be fun to swap out the king pin front end for one from a 122 so you could have ball joints. Just a little extra work, eh!
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:26 AM   #210
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Nice project, Kyle.
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:42 PM   #211
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Ugh, trans tunnel is done. Have to weld the seam at the floor from underneath later.

Had an epiphany: now I can start the actual engine swap.

The last two years have been doing everything else - steering, axle, sheetmetal, pedals, floors, tunnel.
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:03 PM   #212
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Guess I should add some pics!

For comparison:
http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/at...1&d=1344123193
http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/at...1&d=1344123193

That is a big ass trans tunnel!
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:18 PM   #213
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looks BOSS
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:14 PM   #214
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The stock tank is small, rusted and coated with something that looks an awful lot like The Blob, and lacks an easy in-tank HP fuel pump and return option. Plus the OEM sender is toast.

Staying true to form, I'm being dollar-wise and time foolish. Since I have a perfectly good (if way too big) Mustang tank, pump, and sender, I'm going to modify and reuse these.

Some of this is the crazy cheap approach I'm taking, and some of it is keeping the car basically a stock 1990 Mustang.

I thought about grafting the Mustang sender and fuel pump flanges on, but the Mustang tank has this cool baffle setup I'd like to retain. And the Volvo tank, being a million years old, is probably too rusty and thin to work with.
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:16 PM   #215
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I measured, looked, looked, measured, thought, looked, measured, and then cut the Mustang tank into four sections.

It's just tacked for now, and I'm working on getting it to fit the existing trunkfloor flange as well as possible. Hope to use the Ford tank straps to mount it from underneath.

As it sits now, it's probably workable, but the buttcheek has a bit of roadrash on it, and the tank isn't much higher than that. Hope to get the car laid low so I want to keep the tender bits out of harm's way.

Progress, as always, is excruciatingly slow, but I'm doing my best to take it slow and easy and keep it fun.
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Last edited by kyle242gt; 06-16-2014 at 02:17 PM..
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:50 PM   #216
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I really enjoy this build. I love putting **** into something it wasn't intended to fit in. Metal work looks great.
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:41 AM   #217
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I love this thread, too. I need to see some updates!

Makes me want to start a thread for my Valiant project. But I would have to title it "Future 20 valve powered Plymouth....I promise to finish this one".
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Old 08-19-2014, 01:01 AM   #218
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Just picked up a 59 544 as well from Patrick!
Such a nice car you have. Wish mine would get at least half as good and nice as this
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Old 08-23-2014, 07:27 PM   #219
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Tank is narrowed, sealed, painted, and done. Trunk floor modified to fit. Starting to sort out fuel line, will run it up the tunnel as originally done, then into the trunk and connect to the Ford pump. Going to use the Mustang fuel filter mounted under the trunk by the axle, in keeping with my task of using as much of the donor as possible.

Took a few pictures of the exhaust ports to get an idea of clearance and routing, since it's obviously helpful to try to think about all manner of things at the same time.

Driver's side will have to work around the brake master and booster, but shouldn't be too bad.

Passenger side will be tricky, as the rearmost exhaust port is tucked behind the firewall frame spar.

As I look at it, the idea of zoomie stacks pointed straight up sure becomes attractive. But will likely go up and over the frame rails and down behind the fenders.
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:32 PM   #220
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Is it dumb to think you could drill a sizeable hole in the frame rail and weld a piece of tubing in to make a clearance hole for that passenger side exhaust outlet? If you could find a v-band clamp small enough, you could use a removable tube on that port to make it possible to route it. So far the smallest v-band I can find is a 2" though....

Do you have enough clearance between the frame rails and the fenders to run exhaust without the tires hitting them at full lock?
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:48 PM   #221
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There isn't much room between the wheel and frame rails at lock on a PV. Narrow track, relatively wide frame rail spacing. The top A-arms are pretty short.
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:49 PM   #222
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Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

At this point, I *think* I have enough room if have that troublesome port (#4) immediately bend forward/up over the sparplug.

If I have to clearance the frame rail a little bit, I imagine I'll be okay to notch the firewall frame spar and fill with a pipe as you suggest. The cartoon in #205 above gives you an idea of that.

There's tons of room in the backhalf of the front fenders for exhaust and even mufflers if I wuss out and muffle the beast. You can see a the driver's side in this pic
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:47 PM   #223
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Kyle,
I've been watching your thread, really enjoying your learning/building process. I thought that in the interest of modernity I would send you a link to Fat Man IFS.

http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/cat...ucts/ifs-kits/

Cutting the frame rails off the 544 and grafting a complete IFS, with coil-overs, R & P steering and disk brakes would really improve everything about the ride and handling of your car. It will also give you tons of room for headers! JMO
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Old 08-25-2014, 03:30 PM   #224
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Yeah, I know, I could have spent more money and less time and gotten a better project. It'll have power four wheel discs and power steering (maybe) when done.

Frankly, still kicking myself (gently) for passing on a $400 (?) shell; could have rebodied a Miata and been done years ago.

As far as project cars go, this thing is insane - too much work, too much time. But as a lesson in fabrication, it's cheap.
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:21 AM   #225
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Stick to the plan, it's a good one! Always time for upgrades later when you sort out the difficult issues such as this. If it's easy, everyone will build one.
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