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Old 12-10-2016, 09:36 PM   #26
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Buy oem trim clips, aftermarket ones suck.
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Old 12-11-2016, 12:08 AM   #27
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Great looking car.
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:07 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by 122power View Post
Nice write up dude! Glad its getting the love it needs. Had fun at the track running around you guys, or you running around us I should say.
When I followed the guy out to where it was at I was like, "this is in the middle of nowhere." Yeah the bee nests were interesting. That car next to it had a big one in it as well. Man that car looks rough seeing it in the old photos, but its a gem for sure. I may have some other pics to post.
Word - that race was fun indeed. Looked like the Amazon performed pretty well after the repairs. The trip out to get this green car must have been interesting. Please do post any other photos you have!

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holy smokes. cant believe all this volvo stuff is happening in rosa! love the green. good job bringing home more junk luke!
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Dude, I am LOVING this thread so far! Way to keep a classic alive!
The response to this thread has been surprising - I'm just telling it as it happened, but thanks!

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Nice, even came with IPD sways!

Once you get it all cleaned up how you want, start watching for some of the euro 8" headlights/bezels. Would be a cool subtle addition to this original car.
Yeah someone in the past put some money into keeping this car alive and upgrading a bit. I was thinking about those 8" headlights after seeing some old brochures actually! Feel free to tip me off if you come across any...

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Originally Posted by apachechef View Post
Dammit westerners!
That car would be powder out east.
Nice work!
It's got a bit of rust bubbling around the window rubber where all the old cars have issues. So far no cancer except the battery tray which is par for the course. Come out west and buy some old steel!

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Score, best color ever for an older 245...
I've always dug the orange and yellow 70s colors too but the green just has that certain je ne sais quoi factor.

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Nice survivor thanks for saving this one!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Also your door trim stick is showing that it's delivered.

December 10, 2016 , 4:16 pm Delivered, In/At Mailbox
Yep, the trim stick showed up intact in its custom redwood packaging - very clever! It will go on the car as soon as I get some clips...

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Buy oem trim clips, aftermarket ones suck.
I used OE clips on my 242 and can confirm they work well. Now to order s'more.

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Great looking car.
Thank you sir! I'm watching your new thread about your Amazon with keen interest too.
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:19 PM   #29
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So I finished the cam gear repair yesterday and got the car running again. The oil pan looked clean from the front with the timing cover off, but I drained the oil and poked a finger in the drain hole and found more...so I spent about an hour spraying various solvents into the pan to wash the debris down to the bottom, then fishing it out with a custom hook fashioned from a stick of welding rod. Paper towels picked up the rest of the smaller bits, or most of them anyway. Ian told me not to worry much about the fiber so I didn't pull the pan, but I wanted to remove as much of it as I could. Will probably do another oil change soon to drain out whatever is now caught in suspension in the oil.

Got the pan gasket scraped off and cut at the front edge, in preparation for gluing in a portion of a new gasket. I used Permatex Ultra Black sealant. The brass thrust plate behind the cam gear was not only badly worn, but both of the mounting ears were broken, presumably a result of the gear failure...




Special pusher tool to install the new gear. I used a screw into the end of the crank as a lever point to align the crank with a long screwdriver so that the cam gear would twist on in the right orientation. You have to set the crank counterclockwise a bit so that the helical teeth of the cam gear rotate it back to 12:00 position with the marks aligned, as the cam gear is being pressed on. Good used steel thrust plate installed behind the new/used gear.




One of the teeth visible in the front shallow area of the pan




I set the ignition timing approximately where it was before; couldn't find an inductive timing light in the shop so I'm not sure exactly what the base timing is. But it ran well on the short drive. Parked in front of our house in preparation for the 3rd Annual Comfypantsa Palooza, formerly Sweatpants-a-palooza / white elephant gift exchange / beer tasting party.




I scored this nice pewter 1800 from Eric at Hi Performance Auto and gave it as my white elephant gift, wrapped in a small box from Citroen WRC

My wife stole the 1800 from Karl during her round so it's staying here I guess!

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Old 12-11-2016, 05:10 PM   #30
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How cool, love the story! Those early cars are quite interesting, very different from my 79!
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Old 12-11-2016, 05:47 PM   #31
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Nice... Suspect the M41 came from a 140 or an 1800, due to the 1972-74 shift knob, instead of the 240 mushroom knob with the slide switch. If you want to keep the old style knob (or switch to one of those old school leather knobs with the "VOLVO" badge in the middle), find a 140 or 164 overdrive stalk and mount that to the column somehow. Then, you can free up a switch space on the center console.

Next time you have the block open, switch to a D cam, instead of the K cam. That'll give you an extra 8-10 hp. Probably could also advance the timing a little. Points ignition B20F engines usually ran 10 deg BTDC, instead of 5 deg BTDC. Granted, the D-Jet cars usually had a vacuum retard, and the K-Jet 1974 cars had no vacuum.

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Old 12-11-2016, 10:18 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by brendon_ak View Post
How cool, love the story! Those early cars are quite interesting, very different from my 79!
Glad it was an enjoyable read. Yeah I'm thinking about documenting all the weird early features in this '75. Either one-year-only stuff or features that went away or changed within the next year or two. Looks like it only shares a few common parts with my '84 wagon - everything is familiar, but different in some subtle way. Definitely more of a vintage feel to this car.

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Originally Posted by Blue245Ti View Post
Nice... Suspect the M41 came from a 140 or an 1800, due to the 1972-74 shift knob, instead of the 240 mushroom knob with the slide switch. If you want to keep the old style knob (or switch to one of those old school leather knobs with the "VOLVO" badge in the middle), find a 140 or 164 overdrive stalk and mount that to the column somehow. Then, you can free up a switch space on the center console.

Next time you have the block open, switch to a D cam, instead of the K cam. That'll give you an extra 8-10 hp. Probably could also advance the timing a little. Points ignition B20F engines usually ran 10 deg BTDC, instead of 5 deg BTDC. Granted, the D-Jet cars usually had a vacuum retard, and the K-Jet 1974 cars had no vacuum.

-J
Cool; I appreciate the tips. I didn't think about the cam at all but will look into it. It would be neat to hop up the B20 in a few ways that don't ruin the overall feel of the car, cam and valvetrain being in that category I think. This K-jet car does have a vacuum diaphragm on the distributor but I'm not sure if it's a retard or advance device. I'll check timing and try out 10 degrees. I had the same thought about the older square shift knob but I do like it and it does seem to suit the car. Column stalk switch for the overdrive would be neat; our old '66 1800S had that and it was fun in a "3 on the tree" kind of way. Less of a reach from the steering wheel too.
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Old 12-12-2016, 07:33 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Duder View Post
Glad it was an enjoyable read. Yeah I'm thinking about documenting all the weird early features in this '75. Either one-year-only stuff or features that went away or changed within the next year or two. Looks like it only shares a few common parts with my '84 wagon - everything is familiar, but different in some subtle way. Definitely more of a vintage feel to this car.

Cool; I appreciate the tips. I didn't think about the cam at all but will look into it. It would be neat to hop up the B20 in a few ways that don't ruin the overall feel of the car, cam and valvetrain being in that category I think. This K-jet car does have a vacuum diaphragm on the distributor but I'm not sure if it's a retard or advance device. I'll check timing and try out 10 degrees. I had the same thought about the older square shift knob but I do like it and it does seem to suit the car. Column stalk switch for the overdrive would be neat; our old '66 1800S had that and it was fun in a "3 on the tree" kind of way. Less of a reach from the steering wheel too.
Not a problem. The 1975 dizzy has vacuum advance. If it pings under load, set to 10, then you might need to either disconnect/plug the advance, or retard it just enough so it doesn't ping, but still seems more lively than stock.

With respect to the difference between the 1975 and the 1984, yeah, the '75 is going to be much more like a 145E. It still has the 240 suspension and floor pans, but it'll have the 140 feel, along with the 140 sounds...

Yeah, I thought about modifying a 245 wiper stalk to act as a secondary OD switch in my 242. Hit the button on the end of the stalk, or hit the button in the knob, depending on which is easier. That said, I may be downdating the car a bit so I have both my 242 and my 245 matching, overdrive setup-wise. Installed the 1975-80 setup on the 245Ti.

-J
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Old 12-12-2016, 05:26 PM   #34
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Not a problem. The 1975 dizzy has vacuum advance. If it pings under load, set to 10, then you might need to either disconnect/plug the advance, or retard it just enough so it doesn't ping, but still seems more lively than stock.

With respect to the difference between the 1975 and the 1984, yeah, the '75 is going to be much more like a 145E. It still has the 240 suspension and floor pans, but it'll have the 140 feel, along with the 140 sounds...

Yeah, I thought about modifying a 245 wiper stalk to act as a secondary OD switch in my 242. Hit the button on the end of the stalk, or hit the button in the knob, depending on which is easier. That said, I may be downdating the car a bit so I have both my 242 and my 245 matching, overdrive setup-wise. Installed the 1975-80 setup on the 245Ti.

-J
I checked timing last night and found it was at around 8 deg BTDC based on my wild guess, so I set it to 12 deg, and it seems happy and more powerful. The 2-wire connector for the Bosch breakerless system runs up hard against the block at that position however. I pulled the distributor again and found that the drive gear was installed one tooth off. Tried to pull it out with pliers but it wouldn't budge. So at some point I need to re-clock that drive gear so I can set timing in a way that doesn't put any stress on that connector.
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:47 AM   #35
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The engine in your car isn't the original one. At some point Volvo changed the angle at which the distributor drive gear was to be installed. It's entirely possible that the distributor gear was installed that way from the factory.

Volvo, being frugal, used the same picture despite the revised angle.



Try pulling the gear with the engine warm. The gunk build up on the drive gear shaft under the bushing is preventing the gear from coming out and it'll be softer with a warm engine. When they're really stuck, I've wrapped SS safety wire around the shaft a few times under the gear and then pulled up using a handle of some sort. Spraying carb cleaner down the hole might help loosen the crud, but you'll need to change the oil if you do that.
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Old 12-13-2016, 04:41 AM   #36
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Thanks for the tips! I did find that same picture in an earlier thread you'd posted in, and compared to what I was seeing. Below is my engine. I think it's off by one tooth in the clockwise direction, which correlates with the 2-wire connector ramming the block with the distributor turned clockwise to get it advanced as far as possible.

I'll try your methods for gear removal sometime in the next few days. I haven't had a chance to replace my broken valve spring yet but I could drop by your shop tomorrow to return the cam gear tools.

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Old 12-13-2016, 11:57 AM   #37
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75 b20 breaker less is vacuum retard
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:03 PM   #38
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car is looking great

I have the same MIG clock
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:07 PM   #39
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Try pulling the gear with the engine warm. The gunk build up on the drive gear shaft under the bushing is preventing the gear from coming out and it'll be softer with a warm engine. When they're really stuck, I've wrapped SS safety wire around the shaft a few times under the gear and then pulled up using a handle of some sort.


Or hook it with a bicycle spoke end.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 12-13-2016, 01:11 PM   #40
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Thanks for the tips! I did find that same picture in an earlier thread you'd posted in, and compared to what I was seeing. Below is my engine. I think it's off by one tooth in the clockwise direction, which correlates with the 2-wire connector ramming the block with the distributor turned clockwise to get it advanced as far as possible.

I'll try your methods for gear removal sometime in the next few days. I haven't had a chance to replace my broken valve spring yet but I could drop by your shop tomorrow to return the cam gear tools.
You don't need to make a special trip, just bring back the tools when you're done. They're duplicates so I won't miss them if you keep them a while longer.
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Old 12-13-2016, 11:25 PM   #41
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245's rock.
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Life begins at 10PSI.
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Old 12-16-2016, 07:14 PM   #42
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Still Ain't A Saab!
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Old 12-16-2016, 08:05 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by NO_SPRK View Post
75 b20 breaker less is vacuum retard
Never go full retard? Thanks for the info.

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car is looking great

I have the same MIG clock
Right on man, I'm going to install this one in my '66 VW when I turn it into a vintage rally mobile.

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Or hook it with a bicycle spoke end.
Good idea although I have much more welding rod sitting around vs. bicycle spokes...

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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
You don't need to make a special trip, just bring back the tools when you're done. They're duplicates so I won't miss them if you keep them a while longer.
Thanks Ian, I appreciate it as always. Will do the valve spring this weekend and get the tools back to you next week. It appears I also need a gasket for this M41, the one between the gearbox and the overdrive housing - do you have those available? It's leaking like an Anglo-Swedish sieve.

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245's rock.
Indeed!

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Still Ain't A Saab!
Yeah but it got you to join a Volvo forum in order to post that - so ha!
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Old 12-16-2016, 09:56 PM   #44
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Thanks Ian, I appreciate it as always. Will do the valve spring this weekend and get the tools back to you next week. It appears I also need a gasket for this M41, the one between the gearbox and the overdrive housing - do you have those available? It's leaking like an Anglo-Swedish sieve.
Yeah, I have all the gaskets and seals for M40/M41 in stock.

Clean the trans and OD real good and check for other sources for the leaks. Don't forget to check the shifter bushings, especially the forward one. If it's worn, oil will leak all over the top of the OD.
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Old 12-19-2016, 03:59 PM   #45
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Thanks for the tips! I did find that same picture in an earlier thread you'd posted in, and compared to what I was seeing. Below is my engine. I think it's off by one tooth in the clockwise direction, which correlates with the 2-wire connector ramming the block with the distributor turned clockwise to get it advanced as far as possible.

I'll try your methods for gear removal sometime in the next few days. I haven't had a chance to replace my broken valve spring yet but I could drop by your shop tomorrow to return the cam gear tools.

Another thing is that slot is offset to one side if you notice it. So it has to be on the right side also. I don't think it will drop in. I forgot about that spring till you mentioned it.
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Old 12-24-2016, 05:36 PM   #46
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Yeah, I have all the gaskets and seals for M40/M41 in stock.

Clean the trans and OD real good and check for other sources for the leaks. Don't forget to check the shifter bushings, especially the forward one. If it's worn, oil will leak all over the top of the OD.
Cool, will do. I'll get your tools back in a few days, as soon as I can.

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Another thing is that slot is offset to one side if you notice it. So it has to be on the right side also. I don't think it will drop in. I forgot about that spring till you mentioned it.
Yeah, I noticed that after finding one of Ian's earlier posts. Still need to try popping the gear out and re-clocking. This thing has been running great though!


I got a nice redwood packed stick of front door trim from none other than Kenwood Chair himself, ordered some OE trim clips from Tasca, and finally got around to installing them today.




Trim clips have a little nubbin that spreads the back side of the plug. However, they are injection molded as one piece. It helps greatly to get the nubbin started before installing the clip, then whack it fully home once the clip is set into the sheetmetal. Otherwise, the nubbin can get cockeyed and fail to fully seat.




New clips installed after pushing the remnants of the old ones through the door.




Takes a good amount of force to pop the trim on; helps to get the top edge seated first, then bop the bottom edge with the heel of your palm.




Christmas in So-Cal...the high is 55 degrees here today. People have parkas on.






Yesterday was colder. Real, wet, watery rain fell from the sky.

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Old 12-25-2016, 09:29 AM   #47
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This car is so freaking cool!
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Old 12-25-2016, 12:13 PM   #48
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Many years ago I purchased the same color Volvo but a 242 model at a police auction for my sister. Great car, cost me all of $225 and all it needed was a fuel pump relay that I had in my car. She drove that thing for about 5 years after before she started having a few issues with it. At the time i didn't have a place to keep so it was donated to a charity. Although it wasn't mine I and she still miss it.
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:28 AM   #49
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This car is so freaking cool!
I know right? Thanks!

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Many years ago I purchased the same color Volvo but a 242 model at a police auction for my sister. Great car, cost me all of $225 and all it needed was a fuel pump relay that I had in my car. She drove that thing for about 5 years after before she started having a few issues with it. At the time i didn't have a place to keep so it was donated to a charity. Although it wasn't mine I and she still miss it.
A 242 in this color would be rad. I think I've only ever seen one. Too bad we can't keep them all...

Over the past few weeks I've been driving the 245 and doing a few things with it here and there.

First up was finding this original 1975 service manual on ebay. I snagged it because I figured the '75 had enough unique features that it would be worth having around. I prefer one big book to a binder full of smaller green books, and this thing has everything in it I should need to keep the car maintained and running right.






Next was replacing the broken spring on the #1 intake valve. Luckily it cracked near the top and only in one location, so nothing else was damaged and the valve wasn't floating much if at all. This was a quick one once I found the right shop air adapter for the spark plug hole. After that I adjusted all the valves to 0.020 inch; only a few of them needed to be opened up actually.








Then a few days ago I managed to remove and re-clock the distributor drive gear. It was stuck pretty well but wrapping some thin welding rod around the gear and yanking up with pliers did the trick. Initially I didn't realize that it also drives the oil pump and therefore has to slot into that whilst simultaneously lining twisting into the helical drive gear on the camshaft, and ending up in the right position. It took me an hour or so of iteration to get this right. A long flatblade screwdriver was helpful to orient the oil pump drive. Now that it's done I am able to set the ignition timing correctly without the distributor wiring harness getting mashed up against the block. Small wins.



Had to share my shop with these yahoos for the day. I don't know why they haven't given up on this silly Miata and started running a Volvo or BMW yet. I mean, it's not like they just won the national Lemons championship with it...oh wait, they did, nevermind.




Lastly (but not in chronological order) is a nice score for the 245 project. When I picked up the wagon from Luke, I also bought a very nice upper dash pad from him, which has only one crack that was filled in. It's significantly better than the toasted original dash in the car.



However, of course as soon as I got back to LA I remembered there was a super clean crack-free '75 dash, complete, being sold by Loohan here on the boards. So over the break between Christmas and New Years I drove out to Whittier to pick it up. Loohan's '75 is another wagon and an ambitious project. He threw in some extras with the dash like a silly old aftermarket AM/FM/cassette deck with a mounting plate for the lower location. Not sure if I'll use that yet but at least it wouldn't look terribly out of place like the hacked in headunit that's in the car now. Dash should be a fun upgrade project either way. Need to get a clock though!







Before leaving Whittier I remembered that the Hill Valley High School scenes in Back to the Future were filmed there. So I drove the five minutes down to Whittier Union HS and found some of the original shooting locations. Cool to see these still look pretty much the same as they did in 1985, er, uh... I mean 1955.

Front of the main building from the school (watch out for Strickland around here):




Side quad that they used as the parking lot for the Enchantment Under the Sea Dance. You can see the staircase where Biff was looking at "Oh La La" which was disguised in the dust jacket from Gray's Sports Almanac:




"Parking lot" where Marty drove Lorraine in behind the wheel of Doc's Packard convertible:




Scene of George McFly's punch delivered squarely to Biff's jaw for the knockout.

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Old 01-12-2017, 01:51 AM   #50
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Cool, will do. I'll get your tools back in a few days, as soon as I can.



Yeah, I noticed that after finding one of Ian's earlier posts. Still need to try popping the gear out and re-clocking. This thing has been running great though!


I got a nice redwood packed stick of front door trim from none other than Kenwood Chair himself, ordered some OE trim clips from Tasca, and finally got around to installing them today.




Takes a good amount of force to pop the trim on; helps to get the top edge seated first, then bop the bottom edge with the heel of your palm.




Looking good.

Palm of the hand is correct but it's supposed to be a downward blow from the top and it'll go on much easier.

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