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Old 03-11-2012, 12:57 AM   #101
smith_t240
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It runs!!! Yeah, I know it's been a while, but that doesn't matter anymore.

It didn't start initially. Determined it was spark related, then started double guessing my wiring - car currently has LH2.2 with EZK. Used a 740 EZK harness, LH 2.2 NA harness (without modification so I can sell it later), and hacked up the old 240 turbo harness which has the coolant temp, oil press, starter, alternator, etc. wires in it. Turned out to be the junkyard powerstage. Swapped that and it fired right up.

The warning lights in the cluster aren't coming on when the key is in position II, except for the oil pressure light. Not really sure why at this point. Still have some work to do before its driveable: oil feed line to turbo broke (AN fitting), correct size accessory belts, need the correct temp switch for the e-fan so I can install it in the radiator hose and fill this thing with coolant, cut some more off the cold side intercooler pipe so it fits with the AMM, figure out the crackcase vent, put another half quart in the M46, need the wastegate bracket fabricated from 2fast242gt, then button up the front clip and go do some burnouts!!
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I stubbed my toe while getting a beer this afternoon. I feel both your guy's pain. What a crappy day, ohh well, tomorrow can't get much worse for me
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:27 AM   #102
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Reasons why only your oil pressure light comes on are either due to a bad or disconnected exciter wire to the alternator, or there are issues either with the alternator itself or with the instrument cluster. If the voltage jumps up to 13.5 or so when you've accelerated to about 15 mph in 1st gear (around 2500 rpm or so), then it's either the wire or the cluster that has issues.

Anyway, cool that the car's running again.

-J
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:21 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by smith_t240 View Post
It runs!!! Yeah, I know it's been a while, but that doesn't matter anymore.

It didn't start initially. Determined it was spark related, then started double guessing my wiring - car currently has LH2.2 with EZK. Used a 740 EZK harness, LH 2.2 NA harness (without modification so I can sell it later), and hacked up the old 240 turbo harness which has the coolant temp, oil press, starter, alternator, etc. wires in it. Turned out to be the junkyard powerstage. Swapped that and it fired right up.

The warning lights in the cluster aren't coming on when the key is in position II, except for the oil pressure light. Not really sure why at this point. Still have some work to do before its driveable: oil feed line to turbo broke (AN fitting), correct size accessory belts, need the correct temp switch for the e-fan so I can install it in the radiator hose and fill this thing with coolant, cut some more off the cold side intercooler pipe so it fits with the AMM, figure out the crackcase vent, put another half quart in the M46, need the wastegate bracket fabricated from 2fast242gt, then button up the front clip and go do some burnouts!!
Congrats!
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:23 PM   #104
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want another m46 for cheep for when you blow that one?
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:01 PM   #105
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Keep up the good work!
Any more pictures...looking good!

Last edited by Beachee; 03-18-2012 at 07:04 PM..
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:26 PM   #106
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Congrats! Looking forward to seeing this thing.
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:57 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fast242gt View Post
want another m46 for cheep for when you blow that one?
I think we have two spares in the shed currently. Honestly, after this one blows I'll be looking for something a lot stronger. My 16 valve head is just sitting in the basement right now.

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Keep up the good work!
Any more pictures...lokking good!
Thanks. I keep forgetting to bring my camera with me. Next time!


The reason the dash warning lights were not working was because of the alternator ground. Got that figured out. Also found the correct belt sizes for the Denso 100A alternator and the PS with the non-AC bracket.

Need to replace the AN fitting that broke on the oil feed and modify the cold side pipe to work with the AMM. To-do list is getting short!
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:22 PM   #108
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We need more pictures
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:32 PM   #109
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It drives. Waiting on Hobbyist plates so I can legally drive it on the road (never thought my reason for not driving it would be waiting for plates).

Definitely need one of these:


Think I'll black out the headlight surrounds like I did here:


E-fan needs to be wired in, throttle cable has a small amount of play in it, and most importantly, it needs a MBC.

Schedule a weekend coming up to do all the rear suspension as I never did that with the car in the garage.

R brakes pulled quite a bit up front, but they've been sitting for a while and I'd like to get some miles on them.

Last edited by smith_t240; 03-18-2012 at 06:39 PM..
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:11 AM   #110
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i want a ride when it comes down here!!!
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:36 AM   #111
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:17 PM   #112
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Well, the lights are on..... :-)
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:50 PM   #113
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sweet picture smithers
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:50 PM   #114
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whoa look at this one!
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Old 03-24-2012, 03:08 PM   #115
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Double love from Brian overheat score the bore, new block double bore - big ole gap, piston slap.
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Old 04-27-2012, 02:07 AM   #116
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i demand an update. i want to see this thing in milwaukee!
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:27 PM   #117
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:29 PM   #118
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Smith, this is awesome news buddy! Let me know when you bring her down to Milwaukee, Tom and I want to seeeee it!
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:35 PM   #119
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Thanks, man! Parking on the street blows.

Boost was at around 5 psi but I'm guessing its more like 14 now after adjusting the waste gate. Need to get the calibrated gauge in there. Somehow I lost a rear caliper mounting bolt.

Traction sucks. It has 205 performance tires and an open diff. Both of which need to be addressed.

Current mods:

Squirter block with LH2.2 and 850T injectors
Ported 90+ with 16T, 3" dp (and thats all of the exhaust atm)
No radiator fan
iPd turbo cam
NPR not installed yet

R brakes up front with the rear limiting valves removed in the back

Only the front suspension is done right now,
Coilovers with Koni yellows
Camber plates
Ipd sway
Poly everywhere
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:42 PM   #120
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Nice list, love the brakes! The rear suspension might take a little while for you to hit everything but it will be totally worth it.

What is the advantage of removing the limiting valves?
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:20 PM   #121
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Thanks! Basically the front brakes are a lot more powerful now so the rears can be more powerful without the fear of them locking up too easily.

I'm looking for an 06-07 S60R. Any advice for me? Gotta be manual and like the aero kit.
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:06 PM   #122
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06-07 is the way to go, they benefit from all of the improvements over the years such as the awd, minor motor updates and interior. Don't touch an 04/05 unless it is super cheap. Even now an 07 is still fairly expensive that is if you can find one with less than 60k on it AND manual.

Definitely give them a good test drive and at least peak under the car to see if there are any leaks. If you find out the slave cylinder is leaking (leak appears from a similar weep hole as a RMS leak would) don't go near it unless you want to basically shell out $1200+ and have the clutch replaced. Mine is still going strong on the original trans, clutch, shocks and angle gear with 118K so if you find a good one they can be reliable.
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:21 PM   #123
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when do i get a ride?
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:58 PM   #124
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Hey I had a free weekend and got to do some wrenching! Brakes need to be bled more, but more importantly the m46 is getting stuck in 2nd gear and really pissing me off. Word on the street is I'm buying 2fast242's engine and t5 transmission to put in this car

Went on a short drive and it pissed out the coolant - radiator has a hole in it. Got into the red but oh well.



Jacked it up and replaced the rear suspension this weekend. This car now has poly bushings everywhere except the front trailing arm bushing. The rubber is decent there and I didn't feel like burning it out and going to buy another size wire wheel at Fleet Farm.



The rear trailing arm bushings may have been original, and they were in poor shape. The manual cars are much harder on this bushing and you could definitely hear the axle shifting back and forth. Torque rod bushings were worn badly as well.


Fire in the hole!



And done. Not a bad job, but ended up getting really, really dirty. There's some grease underneath, but this car is so clean with the factory undercoating and no rust.






Oh and Fitzy, I found an R. Love it. 3 cars is a lot to handle as the R has been distracting me from the 244 a little bit. Forgot how long it takes to wax a car, my God.





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Old 07-15-2012, 09:08 PM   #125
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Ditch the rear sway or go with something much smaller
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