I'm confused, I am looking more into it and I see that red 3M pads that were recommended, also apparently have aluminum oxide in them.
3M Pad website
This basically seems like I am f***ing toast. I am reading articles about people who are suggesting nitric acid....dumping gallons of kerosene or gasoline in the engine and not having it work.... Here I was hoping last night that I would just be able to swab the oil passages with Q-Tips and brake cleaner.. I guess that won't work.
I will be bringing my head to a head shop that I found. They will be cleaning the head in addition to resurfacing. So at least that part will be taken care of.
For the block, the Head guy recommended I use sandpaper and a wood block...I assume this time after I plug the oil passages, which I didn't do when using scotchbrite. He said I will need to 'drop the pan to flush the water jackets'.
I will need to figure out how to drop the pan. Preferably without the head attached, but I don't know how possible that is. Don't I need to lift the engine to drop the subframe + oil pan?
Is now a good time to mention that I also used scotchbrite to clean the aux and crank shafts? Just briefly, and I cleaned those shafts off with compressed air.
I swear that after I end up basically doing a ENGINE REBUILD the coolant leak better not still be there.
I bought a 0km B230F last week, coincidentally. I didn't think I might actually need it so soon...
It's going to be a while until I can get the head back on the block. Is the block going to rust over? How do I prevent that while also not further screwing up the block?