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Old 08-07-2017, 12:36 PM   #1
Dtfm138
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Default Help with heat and turbo vacuum hoses please!!

Ok so my 84' 242 turbo was runnin a bit warm especially on highway..and I did a needed coolant flush..and also the thermostat. It seems even hotter now! Any idea?
And also I got the 7 ft of blue silicone hose from ipd to do the turbo control valve..just I'm not really certain,how to find these 3 hoses. Any help appreciated!
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Old 08-07-2017, 12:39 PM   #2
Jimmy E. James
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Ok so my 84' 242 turbo was runnin a bit warm especially on highway..and I did a needed coolant flush..and also the thermostat. It seems even hotter now! Any idea?
Check radiator for good air and coolant flow
How many miles on the head gasket?
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:26 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Dtfm138 View Post
Ok so my 84' 242 turbo was runnin a bit warm especially on highway..and I did a needed coolant flush..and also the thermostat. It seems even hotter now! Any idea?
And also I got the 7 ft of blue silicone hose from ipd to do the turbo control valve..just I'm not really certain,how to find these 3 hoses. Any help appreciated!
There are 4 different temperature thermostats available: 71*, 82*, 87* and 89*
Unless you screwed something up somehow you probably just installed a thermostat that opens up later than the one you took out. For example, you had an 82* and installed a 89*.
I live in very warm weather area and drive my cars very hard, so I run 71's in my turbo cars. I'd suggest an 82 for average climate or 87 for cold climate. If it takes too long to warm up with any of those, bump them up to the next step.

If it's heating up on the highway while in open air, the radiator is most likely plugged with bugs and debris. This would fall under the category of "air flow" that Jimmy mentioned.

Pull the radiator out, it's super easy to do. You can use a regular garden hose to wash all of the bugs and debris out of it. Just spray water through the fins and you should be able to get it clean enough to work properly this way. Spray from the back side to the front side at first until you get most of it clean. Once it's mostly clean you can spray from both sides. You are just trying to push the debris back out of the fins instead of forcing it all the way through.

Regarding the "turbo control valve", if you aren't keeping it stock (guessing not by the blue silicone hose ), just remove it and re-adjust your wastegate to the desired boost level. Install an aftermarket boost controller if you are trying to run anything more than a couple psi above stock. If you are going to raise the boost level, I'd suggest a good cbv also to help maintain turbo life.
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Last edited by Tuff240; 08-07-2017 at 02:33 PM..
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Old 08-07-2017, 03:42 PM   #4
Jimmy E. James
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There are 4 different temperature thermostats available: 71*, 82*, 87* and 89*
Unless you screwed something up somehow you probably just installed a thermostat that opens up later than the one you took out. For example, you had an 82* and installed a 89*.
I live in very warm weather area and drive my cars very hard, so I run 71's in my turbo cars. I'd suggest an 82 for average climate or 87 for cold climate. If it takes too long to warm up with any of those, bump them up to the next step.

If it's heating up on the highway while in open air, the radiator is most likely plugged with bugs and debris. This would fall under the category of "air flow" that Jimmy mentioned.

Pull the radiator out, it's super easy to do. You can use a regular garden hose to wash all of the bugs and debris out of it. Just spray water through the fins and you should be able to get it clean enough to work properly this way. Spray from the back side to the front side at first until you get most of it clean. Once it's mostly clean you can spray from both sides. You are just trying to push the debris back out of the fins instead of forcing it all the way through.

Regarding the "turbo control valve", if you aren't keeping it stock (guessing not by the blue silicone hose ), just remove it and re-adjust your wastegate to the desired boost level. Install an aftermarket boost controller if you are trying to run anything more than a couple psi above stock. If you are going to raise the boost level, I'd suggest a good cbv also to help maintain turbo life.
All true, but open is open, once the stat is open and he's cruising the hotter stat shouldn't make the eventual gauge reading be any higher than it was before he did the work - just might peak out higher right before it opened but then drop back to where it was (or even show a cooler reading if the stat he took out really was bad)

Operating temp is operating temp on a hot car on a 70 degree Fahrenheit or better day

If his operating temp is higher now than it was before then he's done something or something else is going on - like whatever moved him to do the service in the first place
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Old 08-07-2017, 03:58 PM   #5
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I don't know where you live, but my climate here is pretty warm. It's been high 90's to high 100's for the past 6 weeks. That's pretty common here.

I've owned over 800 240's and had to personally service most of those myself. I've also modded more of them than you can shake a stick at. In my experience changing the thermostat does change "normal" operating temp as shown on the gauge. Why? Never really questioned it, I've always just used the thermostat I needed for the particular situation to make it run in the range I wanted. Knowing that everything else was in good working condition of course. With his overheating you may very well be right. I clean and service my cars so overheating isn't a problem.
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Old 08-07-2017, 04:12 PM   #6
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I don't know where you live, but my climate here is pretty warm. It's been high 90's to high 100's for the past 6 weeks. That's pretty common here.

I've owned over 800 240's and had to personally service most of those myself. I've also modded more of them than you can shake a stick at. In my experience changing the thermostat does change "normal" operating temp as shown on the gauge. Why? Never really questioned it, I've always just used the thermostat I needed for the particular situation to make it run in the range I wanted. Knowing that everything else was in good working condition of course. With his overheating you may very well be right. I clean and service my cars so overheating isn't a problem.
Doesn't matter where I live - but it just happens to be Kalimexifornia

Going to a cooler or hotter stat will definitely impact when your heater starts to get warm, emissions and closed loop times to mention a few and (might) help take the stress off a borderline head gasket (going cooler to get full flow sooner) but regardless of what you put in there, running at 70 degrees or better ambient, open is open

Unless there's a difference in the restrictor hole size between the two stats, the temp reading on the gauge should be the same at cruise once the stat is full open and the system has stabilized - ESPECIALLY at cruise

If changing opening temps changes your GAUGE reading AT FULLY WARM OPERATING TEMP and @ CRUISING SPEEDS (i.e.: FULLY OPEN stat @ 70 MPH) then something else is going on - may not be a problem that you can touch see or feel but something else is at work
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:51 PM   #7
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When re-installing the thermostat, the little "wiggle valve" goes up. If not, reports are that you can get air trapped in the system. I'm not sure if repeatedly squeezing the upper hose (when cold) will work to burp the system.

I've also seen at least one aftermarket thermostat that can be installed backwards. Most of them are long enough so that the long side can't go into the block. You want the spring towards the block (so the spring is in the heated coolant). When warmed up, you should be able to grab the upper hose briefly. If it's too hot to grab, or still cool, then coolant isn't circulating correctly.

Last edited by bobxyz; 08-07-2017 at 09:10 PM..
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Old 08-07-2017, 09:46 PM   #8
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If changing opening temps changes your GAUGE reading AT FULLY WARM OPERATING TEMP and @ CRUISING SPEEDS (i.e.: FULLY OPEN stat @ 70 MPH) then something else is going on - may not be a problem that you can touch see or feel but something else is at work
I understand what you are saying, but 71's make the cars run around 1/4 on the temp gauge, 82's 1/3 to just under half, 87's right around half, sometimes just over. I've never used a 89 knowingly. Not just on a single car either. Literally hundreds of 83-93 stock n/a 240's.

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When re-installing the thermostat, the little "wiggle valve" goes up. If not, reports are that you can get air trapped in the system. I'm not sure if repeatedly squeezing the upper hose (when cold) will work to burp the system.
I cut the "wiggle valve" off and place the hole upwards.
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Old 08-09-2017, 01:24 AM   #9
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And also I got the 7 ft of blue silicone hose from ipd to do the turbo control valve..just I'm not really certain,how to find these 3 hoses. Any help appreciated!
Because they don't exist.
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