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Old 08-10-2017, 08:59 AM   #1
autoloclys
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Default A/C retrofit from R12 questions on a '92

I have a 1992 240 wagon im am trying to get the A/C working in.

Local garage says they cant diagnose anything without charging it, and cant charge it because its an R12 system, they no longer have the gear to recover the R12 and neither, it seems, does anyone else in my area.

So, attempting to sort this myself, i picked up the universal conversion fittings at autozone. They do not fit!

This is 92, so what i believe are the low and high side fittings are at the accumulator(?) near the passenger side firewall.

Questions

- Can I get conversion fittings to the R134 fittings that will work with what ive got? Or do i need to but the kit from FCP that has a whole new hardline with fitting?

-Since no shop will touch an r12 system near me, how to i pull out the compressor oil which will be incompatible with R134? Does it come out when I vacuum down the system?

apologies for potentially dumb questions
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:38 AM   #2
Cwazywazy
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You can just use the old R12 fittings on a manifold that has them, that's what I do. I believe you can just leave the old oil in the system and add some ester oil to work with the R134. At least that's what I did and it worked fine.

Before you do anything, short out the pressure switch and see if the compressor spins at all. If it doesn't you probably have an electrical issue that needs fixing first.
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:46 AM   #3
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Some of the more experienced AC techs can chime in but iirc you simply can't mix PAG with mineral oils. But I don't believe Volvo used mineral oils in their R12 systems?

Also, an AC shop should still be able to vac your system down for you. I think that's part of them having their licensure no? But no... you'll never get all of the oil out via vacuum.
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Old 08-10-2017, 10:05 AM   #4
Rusty_ratchet
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I've done it a couple times, so am not an expert. I flushed the system (gets rid of most of the oil), replaced the accumulator and orifice tube, replaced the o-rings, added PAO oil, pulled a vacuum, and added the appropriate amount of R134a. I used the R134a adapters on one car. The ones from NAPA are the best ones that I found. It makes connecting gauges more convenient, but they all leak (even the ones from NAPA).
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Old 08-10-2017, 10:55 AM   #5
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Like, Cwazywazy, I say save the time and money, and go get a manifold gauge set and vacuum pump and pump that sucker down, if it holds vacuum for a couple hours. Confirm the compressor still cycles. Then replace the drier and orifice tube/expansion valve with new seals. Vacuum it down again and refill with Duracool or many other mentioned R12 replacement refridgerants(many of which you can buy online without a license) and profit.
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-My car: White 1991 244, 308k miles. B230F LH2.4, AW70, R134a retro. Thrush glasspack, anthracite refinished Coronas
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:13 AM   #6
Cwazywazy
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The manifold set can probably be had for under $25 on eBay. At least I think mine was. I also got the cheapie pneumatic vac pump which works fine, but if you don't have a decent sized air compressor I think you can just rent electric ones at Autozone.

Also, I believe most R12 replacements work fine with the existing mineral oil.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cwazywazy View Post
The manifold set can probably be had for under $25 on eBay. At least I think mine was. I also got the cheapie pneumatic vac pump which works fine, but if you don't have a decent sized air compressor I think you can just rent electric ones at Autozone.

Also, I believe most R12 replacements work fine with the existing mineral oil.


I know Duracool utilitzes POE, which is compatible with mineral oil. The air compressor venturi-type vaccum pump uses a lot of air, so if you don't have a good sized compressor, go rent an electric pump.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:44 AM   #8
autoloclys
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Thanks for all the info.

still looking for details on the fittings though. Even with a manifold gauge set I am not confident i can connect to the low side. as all the adapters seem to be the same 7/16" size which is smaller than whats on the car.

Also
where is the pressure switch? Is that the electrical connector on the side of the dryer/accumulator?
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autoloclys View Post
Thanks for all the info.

still looking for details on the fittings though. Even with a manifold gauge set I am not confident i can connect to the low side. as all the adapters seem to be the same 7/16" size which is smaller than whats on the car.

Also
where is the pressure switch? Is that the electrical connector on the side of the dryer/accumulator?
Electrical connector, yes. If you unplug the two and connect them with a paperclip or something the compressor should kick on even if the system is empty. I thought the fill ports were on the back of the compressor? Maybe not on later years. I bought a generic R12 manifold and an R134 can tap adapter. Works perfectly.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:54 AM   #10
EivlEvo
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Also R12a
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Old 08-10-2017, 03:56 PM   #11
autoloclys
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I found a seller on ebay with a hose that is 1/4" FM flare (i believe this is the mysterious R12 fitting) to R134 QD for $14

The compressor comes on with the pressure switch jumped out, doesn't sound great, but ill deal with that next

there is some residual pressure in the low side, so I'm going to try and drain most of the current old/bad coolant down and refill with a Redtek R12a kit without opening the system to atmosphere. If it works I have a cold AC for under $100.

Doing a conversion seems like at close to a $300 proposition ($180 for the kit from FCP, $40 or so for a manifold gaugeset, plus some $ for the oil fill thingy plus $ for new R134)

will report back
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:19 PM   #12
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I would replace the receiver/drier too. They're like $15 on rockauto.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:18 PM   #13
FezMonki
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I dealed with this a month ago. I know what you need in your life.

- Get a new drier and a bunch of a/c o-rings. Just get a cheap kit off ebay. If the drier is R134 good, otherwise just snatch the nipple off ebay. You can get away with only the high side, I did. Not even sure where the hell low is.
- Absolutely, I repeat absolutely, get a new expansion valve. 5$ anywhere. You will find it near the front passenger wheel, there is a pipe that gets suspiciously wider and is pinched, it sits in there. Pull out with needle nose pliers carefully, jam the new one back in, replace all o-rings. Check if the pipe going to it is full of ****, if so, remove the pipe from the radiator and hose it down with brake cleaner.
- Replace o-rings everywhere you can until you get lazy.
- Go get vacuum pulled and EXACTLY 830g R134 injected at a shop.

Should cost you under 100$ total.

Good luck.
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Old 08-24-2017, 08:32 PM   #14
autoloclys
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I can report back that the 1/4" FM flare i got is NOT the correct adaptor.

It arrived and is too small, will not thread onto the fitting. I would love to know what the correct fitting is, but failing that it looks like I am swapping parts out as some of you all suggested.
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Old 08-28-2017, 04:05 PM   #15
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There is a guy on ebay who sells a r12 compatible refrigerant. He claims you do not even have to take the old stuff out. I would give it a shot. it comes with the hose to hook it up
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Old 08-28-2017, 04:18 PM   #16
2manyturbos
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Just get Enviro-safe ES-12A and charge the system.

http://autorefrigerants.com/hydrocarbon-refrigerants
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Old 08-28-2017, 06:37 PM   #17
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+1 on EnviroSafe or Duracool. They both work great. Duracool in my Wife's car can freeze you out in no time.
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