home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > maintenance & nonperformance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-05-2017, 07:55 PM   #1
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default '88 240 Cluster Lights and Gear Selector Light Not Working

Hi again guys,

Got an issue with my 240. None of the lights on the cluster of my 240 appear to be working (If they are, very very dim), and also the selector light for the shifter does not light up either (There IS a shifter light right?). In addition, the drivers seat heater switch does not light up when on. Could all this stuff be related?

I believe this is not a fuse issue since the gauges and seatbelt light and stuff like that all work?

What could the issue be?

Thanks!
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2017, 08:09 PM   #2
Khrrck
Professional Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Beaverton, OR
Default

Pop open your fusebox and check fuse 16 to make sure it's intact. Be aware sometimes they can crack and appear to be OK at a glance while actually blown. Spin it in the socket - this helps knock loose any corrosion.

Pull the trim panel to the left of the instruments (you'll need to remove the knobs first) and look at the back of the dimmer switch. According to my diagram you should see 2 wires - gray and brown. Connect them together and give them a quick wrap of tape to make sure they don't short against anything (if you do, you'll need to replace the fuse). Does that make your lights work?
__________________
'87 240 budget wagon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
Navigating the Siskiyous in a 3 wheeled Volvo will not end well.
Khrrck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2017, 08:14 PM   #3
Khrrck
Professional Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Beaverton, OR
Default

Here's the diagram for an '88. Dash lights are in the left side of Fig. 4.

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/v...240%201988.pdf
Khrrck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2017, 08:26 PM   #4
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

Thanks! It's dark right now and don't really want to do this now, so I'll wait until the morning. So connect the brown and gray wires together, make sure they are not touching anything else? If they are touching the fuse won't blow or anything? Just don't have any spares so don't want to break them right now lol.
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2017, 12:53 AM   #5
Khrrck
Professional Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Beaverton, OR
Default

You're bypassing the rheostat which controls the light brightness. if that makes the lights come on it means the rheostat is bad.

Having them bridged together just means you'll have maximum brightness on the lights. The issue is that if the wire ends touch other wiring or metal inside the dash, they can cause undesired operation, or short to ground and blow the fuse.

Definitely buy a pack of spare fuses to have on hand just in case. Can be worth going through and double-checking to make sure none of the fuses are larger than is specified, too - some people replace fuses with the wrong size, which can mask electrical problems but cause issues like melty taillight sockets.
Khrrck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2017, 06:46 PM   #6
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

I see two brown connected wires and some white and a black one going to a switch...?

The brown ones are buried in there.

Also the dash light pot is broken I think it turns freely...
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2017, 09:03 PM   #7
Khrrck
Professional Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Beaverton, OR
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnya101 View Post
I see two brown connected wires and some white and a black one going to a switch...?

The brown ones are buried in there.

Also the dash light pot is broken I think it turns freely...
Are the two brown wires the only one connected to the dash pot?

if so, jump them - if your lights come on, that confirms the source of your problem is the pot. ;)
Khrrck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2017, 10:21 PM   #8
vwblue1967
Board Member
 
vwblue1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: NC
Default

Did it happen suddenly? You may just need to replace the bulbs. I bought a 93 last year and had to replace the rear ashtray, all center dash, shifter, some warning lights and never knew they came with seatbelt buckle lights.

I suggest grabbing a test light, They are cheap and have been pretty helpful owning a 240.
__________________
85 245 - ipd sport springs and sway bars yoshifab torque rods, kaplhenke bne strut mounts and TAB's. Poly bushings Bilstein tourings. B cam +4. 2.25 exhaust.

93 244 stockish.
vwblue1967 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 09:49 PM   #9
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

Yes, I think the brown ones do go to the pot! So just unplug them or whatever and touch them and everything should light up?

I bought the car with the lights not working. Luckily it sounds like a simple issue.
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 09:59 PM   #10
Khrrck
Professional Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Beaverton, OR
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnya101 View Post
Yes, I think the brown ones do go to the pot! So just unplug them or whatever and touch them and everything should light up?

I bought the car with the lights not working. Luckily it sounds like a simple issue.
Yup, although they're hard to see in daylight - also make sure your headlights are on, since at least on my '87 they only turn on with the headlights.

If this doesn't identify the problem you'll need to get a multimeter and follow the connections back towards the battery until you find voltage. But we'll cross that if we come to it.
Khrrck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 09:34 AM   #11
ZVOLV
<Master Tech>
 
ZVOLV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Default

Likely blown bulbs.
__________________
No Start Thread
ZVOLV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 04:26 PM   #12
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

Had to unscrew the cluster and take it out a little bit to unplug those wires but I managed to unplug them.

There are four total wires. Two browns which are melted together and go to the same pin, and two wires that are melted together that go to another pin. The two wires are red and white (solid red stripe), and gray...

Now what? Am I touching them all together?

How would I know if there's broken bulbs? I find that unlikely for none to work and the pot to be broken but...
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 04:31 PM   #13
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

Also, is it safe to leave them unplugged with electrical tape on them so they don't short until I get a new pot (if that's the issue)?
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 05:42 PM   #14
Khrrck
Professional Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Beaverton, OR
Default

1. Yes - since there's still only two pins on the back of the pot, shorting the two wire groups together should be fine. They should be designed to be connected - you're just bypassing the pot which normally controls that connection. (Are they actually melted? That's odd. Snap a photo?). I would only worry if you had multiple pins at the back of the pot - then we'd want to determine what the extra ones did before shorting voltage to them.

2. To check for blown bulbs, you can either check for voltage at the bulb socket with the lights and key ON (voltage but no light = blown bulb), or pull and visually inspect the bulb (visible, intact filament = bulb probably OK).

3. Yes - or you could even crimp them together or install a 2-pin switch in that spot. Just be aware that a connection made with just friction and electrical tape could become disconnected unexpectedly if you leave it like that for a long time. Then you won't have any lights.

Last edited by Khrrck; 08-09-2017 at 05:51 PM..
Khrrck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 07:20 PM   #15
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

Ooohhhh the switch idea sounds great!

Yeah I just duck taped them for right now, I'll go out and test now. There are only the two pins. The wires aren't melted, just side by side connected...
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 07:32 PM   #16
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

Nope, nothing happens. Switched he headlight switch to all positions, nothing. I did not hear any pops either for a fuse being popped either so that's good.

Soooo check the bulbs next?
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 08:21 PM   #17
Khrrck
Professional Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Beaverton, OR
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnya101 View Post
Nope, nothing happens. Switched he headlight switch to all positions, nothing. I did not hear any pops either for a fuse being popped either so that's good.

Soooo check the bulbs next?
Yeah, and check for voltage with a voltmeter.

(You did have the key on while testing, right?)
Khrrck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 08:25 PM   #18
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

Yes of course! Lol. Had it in I. Don't think turning it on fully would have a difference?

How should I access the bulbs? I've read I could either take out the dash or stick my hand under the wheel section?
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 09:35 PM   #19
Khrrck
Professional Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Beaverton, OR
Default

For the instrument cluster lights, I'd unscrew the cluster, pull it forwards and reach around to the back. The lighting bulbs are along the top, one each about 1/4 of the way in towards the center. Twist to remove.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachmen...70/unknown.png

This is an old cluster, yours will look different but the bulbs will be in a similar spot.

If you decide to unplug the cluster to get access, do NOT plug the red and white tachometer wire onto anything except a tach!!! If you don't have a tach, just leave it loose like it was from the factory. It will fry your speedometer if you hook it up wrong.

I haven't had to replace any of my other bulbs yet, so unfortunately I can't suggest anything with those.
Khrrck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 10:19 PM   #20
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

I've got the clock, no tach so I'll leave that alone

Other bulbs as in the gear selector one? It's just the two in the cluster I thought.
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 10:41 PM   #21
Khrrck
Professional Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Beaverton, OR
Default

That circuit has on it (IIRC) the gearshift bulb, cluster bulbs, and at least one which lights up the heater controls. Could be wrong though. I've not driven in the dark in a while...
Khrrck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2017, 02:42 PM   #22
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

I did notice the turn signals don't work while fully on, so I guess I'll test the cluster ends touched when I take it out later, just in case they don't turn on until it's started.

Yup, no change still nothing.

Last edited by Johnnya101; 08-10-2017 at 03:01 PM..
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2017, 02:58 PM   #23
Khrrck
Professional Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Beaverton, OR
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnya101 View Post
I did notice the turn signals don't work while fully on, so I guess I'll test the cluster ends touched when I take it out later, just in case they don't turn on until it's started.
Turn signals don't work when the headlights are on? Suddenly you're in "refer to the wiring diagram and trace everything" territory.
Khrrck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2017, 04:49 PM   #24
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

No no no, they don't work when the key is in I. When it's started everything is good (Except those lights :( )
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2017, 07:42 PM   #25
Johnnya101
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default

Breakthrough!

They DO work when started and the headlights are one. . They appear to be white bulbs? Of course I forgot to check the shifter one but I'm sure it works.

So how much do new pots cost? But before that is the pot supposed to turn freely all the way around?? I don't think that the lights worked before but now that I see them working they are dim so I could have missed them...
Johnnya101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:11 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.