home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > maintenance & nonperformance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-11-2017, 07:49 AM   #26
bartman1234
Board Member
 
bartman1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ottawa Canada
Default

No clank just clunk, bordering on kerplunk!
bartman1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2017, 08:35 PM   #27
TestPoint
Board Member
 
TestPoint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ellijay
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bartman1234 View Post
Testpoint what did you end up replacing with as this may be my situation, even though bushings are relatively new.
Since the right side seemed solid I ordered one from AutoZone since they got it to the store 2 days quicker than Advance and it had become my daily driver.

I rebuilt the entire suspension system with parts from RockAuto. I didn't even low ball prices as even some of name brand pieces were from Greece, Pakistan and maybe others. I just didn't go for the very premium stuff. Everything is doing fine except for that one left rear lower bushing. While I certainly knew better I cannot swear that the wheel was carrying the entire weight of the car when I tightened down the nut. On replacement, I realized that seriously tightening that nut with the big V8 right there might have been difficult. That is the most likely cause of a premature failure.

That was about a gallon of olives ago.
__________________


1982 Volvo 245 with a Ford 302 V8

Ford V8 Conversion Manual -
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257

Bertone Restoration - http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=256460
TestPoint is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2017, 08:50 AM   #28
bartman1234
Board Member
 
bartman1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ottawa Canada
Default

Problem solved.
Thought I might post this in hopes others possibly may find a solution to there front end clunk/pop.
After replacing all bushings on the car, my technique was drill out old rubber, remove inner sleeve and reciprocating saw gently a score top and bottom outer sleeve, easily pops out with hammer and cold chisel. Finish by running the dremel around opening to smooth inner lining. Grease new bushing, pushes right in, easy peasy. With the lower control arm front bushings, there is enough space to allow the outer sleeve to side back and forth with the play available from the rear bushing mount, possibly 1/4" or so. This was my clunk, turning torque was sliding bushing in control arm housing. My solution was to tack weld bushing to control arm. Long story short, if you have a clunk, look into the front cross member and if the bushing is not fully seated, that could be your clunk.
bartman1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2017, 09:02 AM   #29
TestPoint
Board Member
 
TestPoint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ellijay
Default

That front lower bushing should have been tight enough between the shoulders of the control arm that tightening the bolt/nut should have prevented any movement. Perhaps you had some control arm damage or the wrong bushing.

Most auto parts stores will 'rent' you tools to make removal/install of bushing an easy task.
TestPoint is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2017, 09:16 AM   #30
bartman1234
Board Member
 
bartman1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ottawa Canada
Default

The inner sleeve, where the bolt runs through was tight. Being rubber, it was allowing the outer sleeve of the bushing(shorter) to move back and forth in control arm opening.
bartman1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2017, 10:08 AM   #31
TestPoint
Board Member
 
TestPoint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ellijay
Default

That just doesn't seem right. I'll crawl under the car today to have a look.

If the inter sleeve is held tight by the bolt/nut and you tack welded the outer sleeve to the arm you just eliminated any reason for there being a bushing there.
TestPoint is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2017, 10:45 AM   #32
bartman1234
Board Member
 
bartman1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ottawa Canada
Default

Not so, it stops the outer sleeve from moving in the control arm sleeve
bartman1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2017, 06:16 PM   #33
TestPoint
Board Member
 
TestPoint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ellijay
Default

I am just trying to understand because I lived with a clunk in the left suspension for most of a year until it got bad enough to find it.

Here is the front lower bushing. Mine has no room to move once the nut/bolt through the bushing is tightened. That is why I questioned if you have a damaged front cross member or control arm or an incorrect bushing.

TestPoint is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 06:48 AM   #34
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

Seems an appropriate time to mention... all the OEM rubber "shear bushings" that twist in torsion as suspension articulates, must be thru bolt torqued to spec at RIDE HEIGHT.... not with suspension drooooooping on jack stands. Can be a PITA on lowered vehicles, but that is the proper technique so the bushing torsional strain is + / - as the suspension moves. I.E. it is neutral at ride height. Sorry, my OCD is acting up this morning.....
__________________
Project "cheap thrills" build thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...67#post4211467

Feedback thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=198746
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 08:46 AM   #35
bartman1234
Board Member
 
bartman1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ottawa Canada
Default

Tried to sketch my explanation.
bartman1234 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:25 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.