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Cannot figure out gas mileage issue on my 240

andysbeta said:
Brandon,

I'm 99.9% certain I put a Bosch breakerless (Kjet) ignition setup on your wagon. I can't remember the coil is it a blue coil I left on it? It is designed for transistorized ignition (pulled from a mid 1970's Mercedes w/ electronic ign). That might have gone bad due to age.

Other item is maybe your AMM Is just bad.

I have my brothers 1979 242 setup near identical to your 1976 245 . His has a 1992 B230F w/ LH2.2 and breakerless ignition. He is getting great driveability and MPG out of it. So you should be able to get the same too.

Anyways let me know what ignition , take a pic of the distributor if you can and I'll let you know if my memory proves correct.
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You did indeed Andy. The car is out on the street and it's dark right now, but I'll grab a pic for you tomorrow if you want. It's the orange cap Bosch distributor, absolutely not the Chrysler unit. The coil on the car is the typical Bosch black/orange coil that's in pretty much every redblock Volvo.

I was leaning toward AMM as well, but it seems to be that would be more of a problem that was apparent all the time, doesn't it? The car starts quick in 1-2 cranks if it's been running, it drives fine, idles fine (for the most part, every once in a while it'll hunt for some reason i've tried finding but eventually stopped caring about. It could very well be related to this issue) and has decent power and everything. You can smell and notice how rich it's running however, so rich that sometimes on a downshift or deceleration it'll pop back a little through the exhaust. Cold starts are another place where you can really notice just how rich the car is running as it'll sputter and usually die. I end up having to do it 3 or 4 times and giving it a little gas to keep the car running for the first second or two.
 
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Sorry for the delay. I've been driving my other car for a little while. For an update, I did mess with timing a little and I found out the marks had slipped. I reset those (ended up moving the distributor about 25* total, it was really off) and the car runs/starts better now. The gas mileage issue, however, is still there. A little better, as I averaged about 20mpg on a longish trip I took with the car last weekend (DC and back). However, it still runs quite rich.

Here's a picture of the distributor, there is a vacuum line:

nMSdKEI.jpg



So, any ideas? I'm hoping to make it down to the local JY on Saturday and hopefully they have a few 2.2 AMMs I can grab. Is that probably my best route?
 
I would definitely change the 02 sensor, my lh2.2 car was running rich due to the CTS being unplugged and it fouled the factory 02 sensor but my wideband was still working. Once the factory 02 was fouled it ran pig rich 10.0 afr until I wired the 02 input to the wideband now all is good. edit- they're really cheap on Rock Auto if cost is an issue.
 
the connector with 2 orange wires is where the engine harness and the ignition harness connect.

the thing screwed into the block with the single spade is, WITHOUT A DOUBT, the knock sensor.

but... breakerless doesn't use a knock sensor... hmmm... but wait, the knock sensor is on the engine harness! and its not connected... is the spade insulated? or bare and bouncing around? Maybe it's grounding out on the block and telling the 2.2 ECU to RUN RICH. If it is bare try taping it up. Good luck
 
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The knock sensor for my iteration of lh2.2 has a bolt through the middle of it and is connected with a shielded wire. The pic above looks like a oil pressure switch, but it's on the intake side so.....
 
I am the one that put this car together a few years ago. It has a B23F with breakerless ignition setup including distributor.

So that's why there is no knock sensor and TPS orange wire connected. Brown wire for spark retard via the knock sensor WON'T BE PRESENT on this car. That wire would only be present if you were running chrysler ignition and distributor which you aren't. Knock sensor will have no APPLICATION on this car.

It sounds like to me it jumped tooth on the timing belt, Brandon. Check it out. Or let it get internet fixed as most internet fixed vehicles get fixed here not at all.

philski o'flood said:
the connector with 2 orange wires is where the engine harness and the ignition harness connect.

the thing screwed into the block with the single spade is, WITHOUT A DOUBT, the knock sensor.

but... breakerless doesn't use a knock sensor... hmmm... but wait, the knock sensor is on the engine harness! and its not connected... is the spade insulated? or bare and bouncing around? Maybe it's grounding out on the block and telling the 2.2 ECU to RUN RICH. If it is bare try taping it up. Good luck
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